It feels all over the place without a clear vision, besides bringing the "classic" to Balenciaga (which was much needed after the trashy last Demna collections).
The trousers are cut like Nicolas' SS07, the caps are the ones from FW06, the sunglasses and "couture" brass necklaces are by Demna, some Cristóbal nods (beyond the obvious, one surprising: the orange gown Indian style).
Sounds good, right?
Well, they are combined with the latest trend report: fringes, Bottega shoes, tops showing belly buttons galore (the least Balenciaga thing on earth).
Other missteps: the halter necks, the uninspired colour combinations, (he was such a great colorist at Valentino, at least during his first solo collections), and above all, the lack of work on volume, which led to flat and common silhouettes.
It is a pity that, of all names that succeeded Cristóbal (the great Thimister, Nicolas, Demna), the one thas this collection recalls the most is Alexander Wang, for its fear to make a strong statement.
The music was monotonous, cheesy and did nothing for the mood, so promising at the beginning with those misterious lights in the darkness.