Balmain, Christophe Decarnin parting ways

[Scotty]

Decarnin's Balmain is so ICONIC! The definition of effortless. It was never the same after.

 

[IsabelMarantBoy]

I miss his eye for details and construction! Especially in his earlier collections, it had this elusive, delicate quality that to me echoes Theysken's work at Ricci where it was "fashion" but never quite blatant and in your face.

Then he hit his stride with Spring 2009, and it was much louder and rock n' roll (which I didn't mind, I have one of the mullet gowns from Fall 2009 it's amazing). But I think his earlier collections somehow spoke louder in terms of details and construction.

 

[Monsieur Cristobal]

It is early morning here. I am having my coffee and open TFS.
The first thing I read: Balmain, Decarnin parting ways.
And for one second I was 😳
What did I miss?

🤣

What Hedi did at Dior Homme, he did at Balmain.
An important name, for sure.

 

[GIVENCHYlover]

Imagine being that girl in 2011. I wonder where she is now I hope she didn’t switch to the Bottega duck shoes and their green bag in 2020




vogue, grailed

 

[tricotineacetat]

Imagine being that girl in 2011. I wonder where she is now I hope she didn’t switch to the Bottega duck shoes and their green bag in 2020


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vogue, grailed

I feel a more refined version of that woman existed through the lense of Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga at the time and I was kinda perplexed about all the hype around Balmain since all the cool women who already looked like the Balmain models at the time were wearing Balenciaga, Rick Owens and maybe Dior Homme, judging by the Parisian street style images of that time.

The kind of women I connected with those days big-shouldered jackets and spray-on biker jeans were more the tacky, rich housewives rather than the cool girls…

 

[tourbillions]

Imagine being that girl in 2011. I wonder where she is now I hope she didn’t switch to the Bottega duck shoes and their green bag in 2020


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vogue, grailed

theey are obviously spending all their money now buying plates and pillows to get hermes bags.

 

[Lola701]

Imagine being that girl in 2011. I wonder where she is now I hope she didn’t switch to the Bottega duck shoes and their green bag in 2020


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vogue, grailed

Where is that girl?
She has become an occasional Philo-phile, buys Saint Laurent, she collects Birkin bags, occasionally she goes to Alaia to remember herself that she can be sexy. And of course, she is addicted to vintage!

Her less fashion forward version still lives at Isabel Marant!

Beyond that, she goes on spiritual retreats, is all about holistic wellness, likes matcha but always favor St Barths/Deauville/SJCP for holidays! She loves a steak btw! And wine! And it’s very important for her as it signal to everybody around that she hasn’t become a caricature lol.

 

[Avonlea]

I liked his Balmain, but it really needed a woman with the right body and attitude to work. It could easily look trashy, especially when worn by pop singers. It would be refreshing to see a designer like him when everything has become so serious and contrived.

 

[GIVENCHYlover]

^^ I was looking forward to your description because I knew it would be perfect

 

[FashionPower]

Where is that girl?
She has become an occasional Philo-phile, buys Saint Laurent, she collects Birkin bags, occasionally she goes to Alaia to remember herself that she can be sexy. And of course, she is addicted to vintage!

Her less fashion forward version still lives at Isabel Marant!

Beyond that, she goes on spiritual retreats, is all about holistic wellness, likes matcha but always favor St Barths/Deauville/SJCP for holidays! She loves a steak btw! And wine! And it’s very important for her as it signal to everybody around that she hasn’t become a caricature lol.

Don't forget the obsessive smoking and raving once in a while lol

 

[FashionPower]

Jokes aside, I think Decarnin Balmain was perfect in filling the void left by the flop from Dundas' departure from Cavalli.
In the early 2000's two brands were synonym of maximalism and red carpet dressing: Cavalli and Versace. Their collections were staples between stylists and also offered tons of possibility for stage dressing. Remember the Beyonce, Aguilera, Britney VMAs / awards events heydays? Always Cavalli and Versace...with a sprinkle of Dolce & Gabbana. Those brands really catered to a rock&roll sexy maximalist kind of customer.
Moving towards late 2000's, Cavalli flopped and Versace started burgeousing itself very much, both shifting towards a quieter aesthetic and image...well Decarnin simply didn't care and went all in. Balmain was literally the Cavalli of late 2000's: unapologetically maximalistic, overly embellished, "in your face" minidresses, every look was perfectly transferable to an editorial or an event look.
Honestly, it's a pity that nowadays there is not a single brand doing over the top red carpet dressing collections...the Elie Saab and Zuhair Murad are very conservative and giving huge arabic escort / girl with a sugar daddy vibes.

 

[Squizree]

Much like Rousting, he did Lowest Common Denominator luxury very well. But it'd be a shame for that to become Balmain's long-term legacy.

I wonder how Decarnin has grown in his craft since Balmain. I don't think I've seen anything substantial from him.

 

[Olaffo]

I think me left fashion, read somewhere he spent years in the institution due to his severe depression. Bless him, I hope he is fine now…

 

[HigthaVandah]

I think me left fashion, read somewhere he spent years in the institution due to his severe depression. Bless him, I hope he is fine now…

Took this screenshot the other day because I knew I'd be referencing it.

If he's found a niche where he can quietly work in fashion while keeping out of the spotlight as he seems to want/need, and can even leave and be welcomed back as health allows, I'm genuinely glad for him. (Doesn't make me any less curious about what he's up to, though.) I wonder if he's part of the team that shaped those student collections into sellable drops? I seem to remember reading he was on the faculty of MFI where those students were, but don't quote me on that.

 

[zoom]

reviving this as Christophe's name has been coming up frequently on the JWA/Dior thread and genuinely wondered where and how Decarnin was faring professionally after his infamous departure. any updates from those in the know? seems like with the imminent Y2K/10s revival already upon us he might have something to offer for a current or lagging house or namesake label. wasn't sure where to post as I couldn't find a dedicated thread for him..is he still attached to some sort of comeback?

 

[reese06]

He was CD at faith connexion. Left the label. Came back and did a capsule or two. Faith connexion often does capsules and collabs with artists and designers.

selfishly I want him back but I wish him health and peace. I cant imagine he wants to or that it would be good for him to be in the industry now.

Put some respect on his name. His cut is edgy but it is much more than just safety pins and studs. He can cut an amazing pant and blazer that all still stand the test of time.

 

[zoom]

there was no-one cooler than the Balmain girl in the Decarnin era. rooting for him whatever he decides to do ultimately, be great to see a proper career reboot if its in keeping with his well being. Thanks @Reese

 

[tricotineacetat]

I feel like the image of Decarnin-era Balmain quickly changed from the 'cool' early adopters such as Emanuelle Alt, Kate Moss or Freja Beha, to middle-aged ladies who lunch on Avenue Montaigne, wives of soccer players as well as mainstream pop stars, whose music had very little to do with the grunge rock chicks Decarnin liked to evoke - I would look at those big-shouldered jackets on and think immediately of 'Escada on steroids', if I'm
being brutally honest…

 

[Lola701]

I feel like the image of Decarnin-era Balmain quickly changed from the 'cool' early adopters such as Emanuelle Alt, Kate Moss or Freja Beha, to middle-aged ladies who lunch on Avenue Montaigne, wives of soccer players as well as mainstream pop stars, whose music had very little to do with the grunge rock chicks Decarnin liked to evoke - I would look at those big-shouldered jackets on and think immediately of 'Escada on steroids', if I'm
being brutally honest…

It started with his infamous SS 2009 collection. Between the moment the collection was presented and it arrival in stores, it was literally in every magazine and it was also the first collection to have a big big time with stylists.
Before celebrities were buying the clothes mostly. Audrey Tautou was the first to wear Balmain at a Redcarpet and Celine Dion was their first big client. She bought a lot of their clothes and wore them on stage and on TV before 2009.

The moment Rushka Bergman (who is a friend of Decarnin) put Michael Jackson in that collection, the madness started. Beyonce became a client too…

But yes it became a social thing due to the prices. I associate Balmain from 2009 to 2011 with Russians! Those ladies loved Balmain. They had such a distinctive look!