True Trendsetters
Lauren Sherman, 02.02.07, 12:01 AM ET
A designer’s No. 1 priority is her customer, right? Not always.
Sometimes what you see coming down the runway is a little too impractical. So department stores rely on buyers to determine which new looks will fly off shelves and which will fly instead straight to the sales rack.
Each season, buyers look at what’s on the runway, then place orders based on what they know about the needs and tastes of their stores’ shoppers.
Fashion directors, or senior buyers, such as Julie Gilhart at Barneys New York and Michael Fink at Saks Fifth Avenue make recommendations based on a mix of analysis and gut instinct in deciding what labels their stores will be stocked with for the coming season. When they guess right, the fashion industry calls it “being on trend.”
A recent example: The CEO and creative director of J. Crew, Mickey Drexler, was on trend last season when he picked items consistent with his stores’ signature preppy look, such as bright colors and glen plaids, popular with consumers, but added other new, fashion-forward touches, such as swing jackets and skinny trousers. Since its June IPO, the retailer’s shares have risen almost 50%.
The buyer for the Gap, by contrast, was spectacularly “off.” Lackluster sales of autumn and holiday collections influenced by Creative Director Trey Laird helped contribute to the ouster last month of Gap CEO Paul Pressler.
Most buyers get their jobs via executive training programs. Many big-name department stores, including Bloomingdales, Macy’s and Lord & Taylor, and smaller specialty retailers, such as American Eagle (nasdaq: AEOS) and Chanel, recruit graduates from top universities, then put them through intense six-month courses that teach everything from allocation (which regions of the country should carry which types of merchandise) to product development. An affinity for numbers helps: Many accounting majors gravitate toward buying, since it demands skill at number crunching as much as it requires creative thinking.
John Mincarelli, professor of fashion merchandising at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City, says that the "creative" aspect to buying is in eclipse and that today’s buyers rely more on analysis, less on instinct.
“Back in the '70s when I started out,” he says, “they used to talk about the ‘buyer’s gut’ or the ‘merchant’s gut.’ You could do a lot more on instinct. Not today.”
Now, he says, new tools such as automated, regionalized sales reports allow buyers “to mine trends and thin-slice them.”
Fink, vice president of women’s fashion at Saks Fifth Avenue, says an intimate knowledge of his customers helps him scrutinize the runway’s latest looks and identify which trends he will then recommend to his team of buyers. Saks’s core customer is a career woman who needs not just stylish work separates but also pieces for special events.
In the buying business for nearly 30 years, Fink admits that every now and then he lets his own design sense take precedence over numbers.
Though for Spring 2007 he went mostly with safe bets, including the bright, minimalist look of Raf Simmon’s collection for Jil Sander and classic, nautical-inspired sportswear from Oscar De La Renta. Fink also picked, on instinct, some riskier, edgier stuff: fluorescent bondage-inspired minidresses from Versace protégé Christopher Kane and 1940s-influenced couture by newcomer Eric Tibusch.
“Sometimes you buy [an extraordinary piece],” he says, “even though there’s not a great chance of selling it. You’re looking at a business that’s commercial but also artistic. I’m constantly trying to balance.”
Betting on a long shot paid off big for Barneys buyer Gilhart. She took a chance in 2005 on fledgling designer Phillip Lim, whose 3.1 Phillip Lim collection mixes uptown and downtown elements (think simple separates in muted palettes with hip silhouettes).
Lim is rapidly becoming a staple label for Barneys, in part because its price point is well below that of better-established labels. A flouncy tea dress, for example, retails for just $560.
“Barneys has invested in the vision of 3.1 since we first launched,” says the company’s co-founder and CEO, Wen Zhou. “We have received immense visibility from all points--window displays on Madison Avenue, catalogs and marketing campaigns.”
And he’s sure to stay buzzworthy. That’s because when Lim’s Fall 2007 fashion show kicks off Feb. 4, expect to see a who’s who of buyers--Gilhart, Fink and their peers--filling the front rows.