Bouchra Jarrar's Comeback

[Benn98]

Bouchra Jarrar Returns to Paris Couture Schedule

The Paris-based designer and former creative director of Lanvin had been absent from the couture calendar since 2016.

By Fleur Burlet on December 18, 2019

WELCOME BACK: Bouchra Jarrar, the Paris-based designer known for her streamlined, elegant sportswear, is returning to the Paris couture schedule.

The designer, who launched her namesake house in 2010, had been absent from the official schedule since 2016, coinciding with her nomination as creative director of Lanvin, succeeding Alber Elbaz. She designed for Lanvin from March 2016 to July 2017.

Jarrar will be showing her spring 2020 collection for her own brand on Jan. 22, according to the provisional spring 2020 couture schedule issued by the French couture federation on Wednesday.

Jarrar launched her signature house after 15 years of behind-the-scenes toil, most notably as studio director at Nicolas Ghesquière’s Balenciaga and head of couture design for Christian Lacroix. She earned the official haute couture appellation in 2013.

Designer Julie de Libran, the former creative director of Sonia Rykiel who launched her couture line last season, is also a new addition to the official schedule. De Libran will be showing her second collection under her namesake brand on Jan. 22, as a guest member.

Indian designer Rahul Mishra as well as Cameroon-based couturier Imane Ayassi also join the official couture schedule as guest members, showing their collections on Jan. 23.

Paris couture week will run Jan. 20 to 23.

WWD

 

[jeanclaude]

Nice to see Bouchra back...but Julie de Libran making couture??? Really??

 

[Lola701]

Nice to see Bouchra back...but Julie de Libran making couture??? Really??

It’s Couture...Made to measure-Demi Couture, not Haute Couture like the proper Haute Couture of Dior or Givenchy. Her stuff is a bit like what Vanessa Seward used to do for Azzaro...Very Parisian, very chic and quite casual in the attitude.

I’m here for Bouchra’s return but I hope that she will pump things up in terms of creativity. We know she can cut but I think her work needs something more maybe in terms of silhouettes...

 

[jeanclaude]

It’s Couture...Made to measure-Demi Couture, not Haute Couture like the proper Haute Couture of Dior or Givenchy. Her stuff is a bit like what Vanessa Seward used to do for Azzaro...Very Parisian, very chic and quite casual in the attitude.

I’m here for Bouchra’s return but I hope that she will pump things up in terms of creativity. We know she can cut but I think her work needs something more maybe in terms of silhouettes...

Even demi-couture is too much for Julie de Libran! I still remember those Vuitton resort collections...ughhh!

About Bouchra I agree with you. Hope she dares to experiment more.

 

[Lola701]

Even demi-couture is too much for Julie de Libran! I still remember those Vuitton resort collections...ughhh!

About Bouchra I agree with you. Hope she dares to experiment more.

No her stuff is really well made. The quality is exquisite for someone who can’t afford the big Metiers d’Arts.

I wasn’t a fan of her work for Vuitton and I mostly hate what she did for Rykiel but I actually enjoy what she is doing for her own line...Maybe because it fills the void of Azzaro by Seward.

 

[jeanclaude]

No her stuff is really well made. The quality is exquisite for someone who can’t afford the big Metiers d’Arts.

I wasn’t a fan of her work for Vuitton and I mostly hate what she did for Rykiel but I actually enjoy what she is doing for her own line...Maybe because it fills the void of Azzaro by Seward.

Well, we will see Julie´s work next month...but really, I expect nothing short of a disaster.

EDIT: Here is her couture pieces available right now: Couture — Julie de Libran Paris
They don´t tell me anything at all...

EDIT2: I am only excited about next Ralph Rucci collection for HC week. And it would be really interesting to see Rick Owens launching a HC collection (his last collection looked very HC).

 

[Lola701]

Well, we will see Julie´s work next month...but really, I expect nothing short of a disaster.

EDIT: Here is her couture pieces available right now: Couture — Julie de Libran Paris
They don´t tell me anything at all...

EDIT2: I am only excited about next Ralph Rucci collection for HC week. And it would be really interesting to see Rick Owens launching a HC collection (his last collection looked very HC).

I though you already saw her work...lol.
I like it. It doesn’t pretend to be what it’s not...Unlike Dior and Current Chanel.

I would love to see a whole RO Couture collection even if he does « Couture » for some of his clients...But for me his Couture should have the sensibility and sensuality of his work at Revillon.

Yes, Ralph Rucci but I also have a spot for Alexandre Vauthier. I like the energy of his collections...
Too bad we don’t have Riccardo anymore for Couture...

I know John and Gaultier will deliver in terms of techniques but I want more...Pierpaolo better stop what he is doing. The Chinese Couture Collection was a disaster.

 

[jeanclaude]

I though you already saw her work...lol.
I like it. It doesn’t pretend to be what it’s not...Unlike Dior and Current Chanel.

I would love to see a whole RO Couture collection even if he does « Couture » for some of his clients...But for me his Couture should have the sensibility and sensuality of his work at Revillon.

Yes, Ralph Rucci but I also have a spot for Alexandre Vauthier. I like the energy of his collections...
Too bad we don’t have Riccardo anymore for Couture...

I know John and Gaultier will deliver in terms of techniques but I want more...Pierpaolo better stop what he is doing. The Chinese Couture Collection was a disaster.

No, I don´t follow Julie´s work at all (I discovered about his demi-couture because you mentioned it here). When a designer doesn´t interest me, I totally ignore him/her.

I´d love to see Galliano making HC...but for another house, not in Margiela. Could you imagine him at Chanel?? That would be really wild! But I don´t know if the Wertheimers are able to forget his booze-induced anti-semitic rants...although ironically Gabrielle Chanel was anti-semitic (and not booze-induced in her case).

 

[GivenchyHomme]

That's good news. It's nice to see someone bounce back after such a nasty ordeal. It's a shame that most designers that have been fired from houses never make a comeback. Good for Jarrar.

 

[Lola701]

No, I don´t follow Julie´s work at all (I discovered about his demi-couture because you mentioned it here). When a designer doesn´t interest me, I totally ignore him/her.

I´d love to see Galliano making HC...but for another house, not in Margiela. Could you imagine him at Chanel?? That would be really wild! But I don´t know if the Wertheimers are able to forget his booze-induced anti-semitic rants...although ironically Gabrielle Chanel was anti-semitic (and not booze-induced in her case).

Couture week is so not crowded and the « Couture World » is so small that last season it became a bit like a talk for people. She held a presentation at her home...Quite unusual so even if I wasn’t checking for her, it made me want to see what she had to propose.

It’s like Bouchra. It’s quite unusual since Alaia to have a Parisian designer from the Maghreb showing at Couture. The Balenciaga factor and some of her friendships (she knows those editors who pushed Nicolas, The knows people at Hermès) got her a buzz right away.

Galliano is super talented but I don’t see him at Chanel at all...
Ok, when Kitty D’Alessio courted Karl for Chanel, the main point was that he never copied Chanel. And I think that being polar opposite can add something to a house but John is too romantic for Chanel. And he is a designer who I think needs control. There were too many stories of him being told to hold things back or to turn things out after very excessive collections.

In 35 years, Karl had total control and trust from the Weirthemers...So much that neither of the brothers lived in France and weirdly I think, despite his ego, he always got in mind that he worked for Chanel. John, many times, forgot that at Dior...

I don’t know if the Anti-Semitic thing can be compared in this case. The Weirthemers already owned Chanel when she started her foolery and they needed each other. It really became a taboo subject for maybe 30 years after the war here in France...
Galliano has a video of himself on YouTube and what he said is very present in our minds still.

 

[jeanclaude]

I don’t know if the Anti-Semitic thing can be compared in this case. The Weirthemers already owned Chanel when she started her foolery and they needed each other. It really became a taboo subject for maybe 30 years after the war here in France...
Galliano has a video of himself on YouTube and what he said is very present in our minds still.

But even though Galliano rant was less than a decade ago, Coco was a nazi collaborator (which is obviously worse; and she wanted to get rid of the Wertheimers literally!!)...but it is true that there is no video on youtube showing her going against jews (so the impact is not the same for the public opinion).

Seeing the sterility Virginie is delivering for Chanel, I would love to see Galliano going full-throttle romantic there!! I can imagine him making collections based on each chapter of her life, but not in the same wild way he made them at Dior; but in the way he made them on his own label (F/W 1994 at Sao Schlumberger´s Hotel Particulier is my favourite)...I can´t help day-dreaming of it!

But reality is out there to put me back in place. In a very boring place...

 

[Lola701]

But even though Galliano rant was less than a decade ago, Coco was a nazi collaborator (which is obviously worse; and she wanted to get rid of the Wertheimers literally!!)...but it is true that there is no video on youtube showing her going against jews (so the impact is not the same for the public opinion).

Seeing the sterility Virginie is delivering for Chanel, I would love to see Galliano going full-throttle romantic there!! I can imagine him making collections based on each chapter of her life, but not in the same wild way he made them at Dior; but in the way he made them on his own label (F/W 1994 at Sao Schlumberger´s Hotel Particulier is my favourite)...I can´t help day-dreaming of it!

But reality is out there to put me back in place. In a very boring place...

Exactly, Chanel was worse but Chanel had also some circumstances with her...Like her friendship with Churchill that allowed her to get through the Purge. That’s why she went to Switzerland after the war...She came back at a time where people in France wanted to « forget » that the war excited and her not so clear past was pushed to the side. When those questions came back to the forefront in the 70’s, she was already dead...
I don’t think Chanel’s past as a collaborator was well known outside of France in the 50’s, 60’s,70’s.
But I think the Weirthemers got the best revenge...

I would still love Nicolas or Phoebe for Chanel. John doesn’t belong in a big house anymore. He gave too much of himself at Dior...For me he would have been perfect for Schiaparelli because the Couture audience will never get tired of him. But unfortunately, the Tod’s owner had very questionable choices...
The same for the people of Vionnet.

I like that Sao Schlumberger show buy I think it’s really one of those shows where you needed to be there to really enjoy it.The stories about that collection and the mystique around it was so vivid that when I finally had the opportunity to see it, I was a bit underwhelmed.
But I think I will always miss going to John’s shows either at Galliano or Dior.

We need Glamour, Romance and SEX more than anything. But it needs to be done by the good ones...The genius like John.

We totally went off Topic! Pardon us Bouchra!

 

[rip_ian curtis]

Lol, majority of the messages in this thread are about everything and everyone else than Bouchra Jarrar and her haute couture collection. Tells a lot about how ”exciting” she and this news is.

Also, I’ve heard so many bad things about her that I don’t really care of her designs anymore.

 

[jeanclaude]

Also, I’ve heard so many bad things about her that I don’t really care of her designs anymore.

Please, tell us!! Fashion gossip!!

giphy.com

EDIT: I´ve just read the news about Emmanuel Ungaro passing away at 86. Lot of losses this year...Lagerfeld, Toledo, Kokosalaki, Thimister...and now Ungaro!

 

[TaylorBinque]

Also, I’ve heard so many bad things about her that I don’t really care of her designs anymore.

Her for the gossip!

I felt like she has slipped away. I hope this makes a good comeback though.

 

[eugenius]

Lol, majority of the messages in this thread are about everything and everyone else than Bouchra Jarrar and her haute couture collection. Tells a lot about how ”exciting” she and this news is.

All that means is that we don't know how to stay on track with a given topic.

I mean, Bouchra Jarrar's coming back to couture..but by all means, let's talk about an imaginary couture collection by Rick/Richard/Dick Owens. TFS at its finest.

 

[jeanclaude]

All that means is that we don't know how to stay on track with a given topic.

I mean, Bouchra Jarrar's coming back to couture..but by all means, let's talk about an imaginary couture collection by Rick/Richard/Dick Owens. TFS at its finest.

Are you the forum topic police or what?? If you are not interested in the off-topic parts, you can freely scroll them down...the same way I can freely talk about an imaginary HC collection by Rick Owens.

 

[reese06]

Lol, majority of the messages in this thread are about everything and everyone else than Bouchra Jarrar and her haute couture collection. Tells a lot about how ”exciting” she and this news is.

Also, I’ve heard so many bad things about her that I don’t really care of her designs anymore.

You can’t just drop that little bug and not give us the tea...


Perched and waiting....what bad things?