Bouchra Jarrar Leaving Lanvin

[Fashionstuff]

I think the Gucci recipe worked because a huge part of it was actually risk. They had no way of knowing it would work with Michele, but they gradually gave him free rein regardless. It's pure luck that the fashion scope was ready for what he's offering, these things are never set in stone. And that's how it should be.

I'm not a Bouchra Jarrar fan, her couture collections were not bad but nothing more.
It could work with Lucas Ossendrijver, i hope they will give him womenswear. Ossendrijver is good and "young " Generation like his menswear.
Yes, what works in Michele's hands will not work in another brands, Philipp Plein's Cruise was so similar to Gucci but it was not good.
Back to Jarrar, i am not sure if it depends of time, 2 collections or maybe 6, it was not good from the first moment. ( same with Dior by Chiuri)

 

[ThatGuyPaul]

Who cares?

 

[Yohji]

I'm not surprised at all, her voice was far too muted.
Annoying that designer brands want immediately succes, it's all about sales while it should be about creativity.

Well you could say that about any artform, really. And it doesn't help that we're living in the era of 'fast fashion' and social media which has made people increasingly impatient.

Unless it's being done independently, you're going to expect the suits to put sales first. This is what they get for dumping Alber Elbaz, really.

And yes, I agree with the people who hope she manages to find a way to revive her eponymous brand.

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

I am a bit sad for her, but girl, you didn't deliver it !
I am tired of people being like " let's give her/him time bla bla bla".

No, sorry when you have incredible ateliers full of seamtresses, patternmakers, when you can get amazing fabric developments you can't show to the world such basic/boring collections like Bouchra Jarrar did, it's almost a crime.
Plus the archives of Jeanne Lanvin are truly amazing, I have been there and saw those huge books full of sketches, embroideries, colors...

 

[VogueDisciple93]

I'll be one of the first to argue the fatal grip profit-chasing has on the industry, but I do not believe it is to be blamed for this; Jarrar had to go. Her collections were forgettable, uninspiring, and painfully monotonous. If they were able to secure new investments after her first 2 collections then send those investors my way because I have some great ocean-front property in Switzerland I think they may like.

 

[maxlinden]

No one was buying the collection nor did she generate press for the brand. I fail to see why a company should go on backing a designer after two low rate collection.

I would love to see Riccardo at the helm though I doubt he would put himself yet again under that much pressure.

 

[HeatherAnne]

Bahaha. Should have never fired Elbaz, suckers.

 

[RedSmokeRise]

I'll echo what everyone else is saying. I really wanted to give her a chance as I do generally enjoy her aesthetic. Tough times to work at any historic label these days.

 

[GreyVetiver]

Since it's unlikely for Alber or Stefano to work for a house again, I hope to see Alexandre Vauthier takes over Lanvin.

 

[fashionista-ta]

Not really unexpected. Just another game of musical chairs in the fashion industry.

The big question is who will replace her and whether they'll be able to increase declining sales and turn around profits.

The big answers are ... Doesn't matter and unlikely.

Funny how their CEO has feuded with both designers.

For the logo reboot a la Hedi, perhaps a cornflower blue coffin?

 

[fashionista-ta]

Bahaha. Should have never fired Elbaz, suckers.

 

[YohjiAddict]

^It probably would still be looking the same, same boring jewel tone dresses and clunky jewellry. Hopefully Alber will bring some new propositions once he's ready for a comeback.

It was evident from the start that Bouchra had absolutely nothing to do helming a house like Lanvin, her hype was non-existent and her sensibility too niche for it to make an impression with either the editors or the instagram crowd.

 

[AnaD]

We all knew this was happening, and now that it has I'm relieved. She never meshed well with Lanvin, her vision was too muted and mature for it to have much of a resonance with the Instagram savvy crowd.

Hopefully now she can revamp her own brand and get back to producing what she excelled at, and hopefully Lanvin manages to snag someone really great for the brand. Dare I say new talent, even if it will never happen?

 

[sweetpop]

While I agree that Bouchra's creations didn't seem to quite rise to the occasion (quite sure that senior management were hoping for a dramatic but wildly successful change like what Hedi Slimane did for YSL, Tom Ford for Gucci), still it's sad to see that she was given such little time to try. I mean, she even closed her own line to focus on Lanvin! It's difficult to fill the shoes of Alber Elbaz! I guess when the fashion industry moves at the pace it does, unless you prove your brilliant worth within the first few times and the money comes in truck loads, then you're out.

 

[Lola701]

It will be good if Hermes end it collaboration with the woman coming from THE ROW and gives the job to Bouchra. I think that she could be perfect for the Hermes woman. Her ultraluxe, ultra-precious casual offering could work well with Hermes's classic bourgeois style.

 

[TaylorBinque]

It will be good if Hermes end it collaboration with the woman coming from THE ROW and gives the job to Bouchra. I think that she could be perfect for the Hermes woman. Her ultraluxe, ultra-precious casual offering could work well with Hermes's classic bourgeois style.

I would second this idea. The women's collection at Hermes is very subpar from the men's collection. I think she would fit well there.

I think she has the skills to match the house of Lanvin but her vision may have been way too muted for the house especially to old clientele who adores such fun and glamour clothes. However, it is also a really big management problem. A lot of people want the next Gucci or Saint Laurent but they forgot how the management was also changed and the designers were really given great room to work.

 

[GivenchyHomme]

They made a big mistake from day one. Lanvin has solidified itself as the go to brand for big volumes, sparkles, ruffles, color, and the most fabulous costume jewelry! Customers are not looking for the lean, stark, Bouchra silhouette. Her refusal to do anything remotely colorful worked against her. All that black and white was very limiting, and very off putting to the Lanvin customer. They should hire a British Designer. Roskanda would be an excellent choice.

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

I hope that Shaw-Lan Wang will hire a young designer. Just PLEASE do.

Lately Gucci and Balenciaga are perfect exemples of what fashion needs : new faces as lead designers. Not those names we've been seeing for a decade... You may not like the style, but people buy Gucci and Balenciaga. It's in wardrobes and in editorials...

 

[fashionista-ta]

They made a big mistake from day one. Lanvin has solidified itself as the go to brand for big volumes, sparkles, ruffles, color, and the most fabulous costume jewelry! Customers are not looking for the lean, stark, Bouchra silhouette. Her refusal to do anything remotely colorful worked against her. All that black and white was very limiting, and very off putting to the Lanvin customer. They should hire a British Designer. Roskanda would be an excellent choice.

I've noticed lately they've been offering some bright colors and draping, in an apparent effort to appeal to the old base.

I don't think it was her refusal really, but she was told (by the people in charge who know nothing of fashion) to feel free to make a complete break with the past. So, that didn't work.

Other houses that have made a complete break have had well-oiled machines to implement it all, plus (of course) the change has to be desirable to a significant group of people. Lanvin's whole problem was IMO never their designer, but the fact that they never had the business side to back it all up. I'm not a wholesale buyer, obviously, but as a retail buyer it was quite obvious that they had been cutting the quality of materials for years. And here they're probably making the same mistake all over again, looking to cut costs further, when they have a stakeholder already at the table who wants to invest (or did!). Additionally, they've done everything possible to alienate their customers, who were not the flighty sort with nothing between their ears. They completely deserve to topple into the grave they're digging.

 

[softgrey]

bring back ALBER~~~!!!