Burberry F/W 2020.21 London

[Hafdis]

When I saw "Look 1/109" on Vogue .com, I thought "not again"
Neverending.

 

[Sensation]

Definitely his worst collection so far, especially the menswear.

 

[caioherrero]

I hate Tisci

 

[MulletProof]

Where the hell is Miguel Adrover?

ha, that's my favorite fashion-related question EVER .. at this point I feel his return would just ruin the myth and the mystery surrounding his whereabouts (but we all know he's in Spain... right?).

Not much to say on this, but yeah, that's a lot of looks..

 

[reese06]

I actually feel like tisci is finally getting somewhere. The only thing he needs to do is edit. Burberry is not at a place where there needs to be 100+ looks. The coats are wonderful. The daywear is actually great for Burberry. Easy to wear.

the street wear should be saved for a capsule collection or some type of mid season drop but it has no place on this runway.

Does anyone know who is styling this? Because it’s messy.

 

[Lola701]

Make as many looks as possible and hope something becomes an it-piece. That's all I'm getting out of this.

It’s totally that and I would say that it’s even beyond that...It’s a way to make sure that every part of the collection will be in stores...From the corner of your local Department Store to the more upscale one. From the duty-free to the flagship...

I must say, in stores, it’s not shocking but I truly don’t believe that it works as a visual strategy for the brand.

This is the Gucci strategy but you can only do the « throw everything in the pot » if you are Alessandro Michele.

If they continue with this strategy, it means that it somehow works for them...

 

[GivenchyHomme]

The co-ed show needs to die already. It's obvious that neither is getting the adequate attention and effort needed. Givenchy menswear was always on point, it deserved Its own show. Now his menswear looks like an afterthought. The women's is stuffy and basic. He really hasn't put his own spin on the trench. Just imagine if he applied some of his couture technique to this brand. Ugh! Get it together!

 

[dfl-001]

There are a few individual looks and select pieces I actually like.
As everyone noted, this could be cut in half and would be more effective.
Such a long show like this is tiresome.

 

[Marc10]

Does anyone know who is styling this? Because it’s messy.

Katy England womens, Carlos Nazario mens.

 

[Phuel]

It’s totally that and I would say that it’s even beyond that...It’s a way to make sure that every part of the collection will be in stores...From the corner of your local Department Store to the more upscale one. From the duty-free to the flagship...

I must say, in stores, it’s not shocking but I truly don’t believe that it works as a visual strategy for the brand.

This is the Gucci strategy but you can only do the « throw everything in the pot » if you are Alessandro Michele.

If they continue with this strategy, it means that it somehow works for them...

Absolutely. And that’s a tragic indictment of this brand and the industry in general.

There is a handful of gorgeous pieces and strong looks altogether that reminds me of the alluring and dark romantic he was once. It’s just so unfortunate that it’s all but drowned out and smothered to death by the obligation to the handlers and shareholders to also showcase the entire department-store range of novachecks and the even more vile outlets-store range of golf jackets and rugby shirts. That’s what he has to do when he’s a part of a huge corporation that’s dependant on satisfying shareholders.

Hope the pay is worth selling out to such a soul-crushing extend for him.

 

[IsabelMarantBoy]

Take me back to 2008-2010 era Burberry when Bailey was doing romantic flower girls or rock and roll warriors I’d take that any day over this beige plaid garbage

 

[TaylorBinque]

I feel like he has a direction but there's the need to put everything on the runway. It's almost like a conscious decision made by marketing. This would have been miles better if it's a tight 40 - 50 looks max. There are pieces that can go away. And with the level of beige here, one eyes can only take in a certain number.

 

[Lola701]

Absolutely. And that’s a tragic indictment of this brand and the industry in general.

There is a handful of gorgeous pieces and strong looks altogether that reminds me of the alluring and dark romantic he was once. It’s just so unfortunate that it’s all but drowned out and smothered to death by the obligation to the handlers and shareholders to also showcase the entire department-store range of novachecks and the even more vile outlets-store range of golf jackets and rugby shirts. That’s what he has to do when he’s a part of a huge corporation that’s dependant on satisfying shareholders.

Hope the pay is worth selling out to such a soul-crushing extend for him.

Perfectly said.
There’s an economic reality behind this and despite what we all think about his Givenchy, this is on a whole other level. It’s a bit like Nicolas at Vuitton. People are over nostalgic about his days at Balenciaga and just expect him to give Couture-like clothes for the runway...
They are there on a mission. There goals are not the same as their predecessors. Marc offered great shows with extravaganza and trains but while that extravaganza helped selling a lot of monogram bags, none of the alteration in leather from the show took off and at the time when Phoebe for Celine was the barometer of taste, Vuitton needed a fresher and more relatable offer. What Nicolas offered? A RTW focused on separates and bags that women can wear in their daily lives. Result today, you see people in Vuitton and people at LVMH are extremely satisfied with Ghesquiere.

Bailey’s goal was to make Burberry desirable again. It worked! But with him becoming a CEO, things changed. Burberry had a very identifiable aesthetic that worked and suddenly, Bailey started to chase trends. Switching from Prorsum, Brit or London was a business strategy that made them less dependent on the sales of Brit but ultimately, they had less room of expression. We have witness Bailey struggle for seasons to catch the streetwear wave with his last collection being the peak of that. Here we have Riccardo who had as a job to sell a bit more but also to catch what Bailey didn’t catch.

And now that I really think about it, his Burberry is more or less a reflection of what Burberry was before: Prorsum, Brit, London. And indeed, the younger crowd respond to his « Burberry Brit ».

 

[dodencebt]

The menswear is such a non event, again. I can't believe the man who reinvented menswear in the mainstream ten years ago is doing these bland things. I don't remember a single item of clothing since the start of his tenure, that's crazy. All of his shows blur into a looooong one in my mind.

 

[bc collector]

I wonder: will Riccardo, at this point, somewhere at the back of his mind, be regretting flushing the Versace deal down the toilet?

 

[dior_couture1245]

Sarah Mower’s review is so insufferable to read. First, she gloats how Burberry no longer looks British under Tisci, as if that’s a good thing.

And then she proceeds to lecture the brand for not doing more for sustainability, after it make a big ordeal about its current efforts. I’d be curious to see what Sarah Mower, herself, has personally given up in the name of sustainability....does she compost everything? Does she have solar panels covering her entire house? Does she swim across the Atlantic to attend NY Fashion Week?

She’s such a miserable woman.

 

[Phuel]

Perfectly said.
There’s an economic reality behind this and despite what we all think about his Givenchy, this is on a whole other level. It’s a bit like Nicolas at Vuitton. People are over nostalgic about his days at Balenciaga and just expect him to give Couture-like clothes for the runway...
They are there on a mission. There goals are not the same as their predecessors. Marc offered great shows with extravaganza and trains but while that extravaganza helped selling a lot of monogram bags, none of the alteration in leather from the show took off and at the time when Phoebe for Celine was the barometer of taste, Vuitton needed a fresher and more relatable offer. What Nicolas offered? A RTW focused on separates and bags that women can wear in their daily lives. Result today, you see people in Vuitton and people at LVMH are extremely satisfied with Ghesquiere.

Bailey’s goal was to make Burberry desirable again. It worked! But with him becoming a CEO, things changed. Burberry had a very identifiable aesthetic that worked and suddenly, Bailey started to chase trends. Switching from Prorsum, Brit or London was a business strategy that made them less dependent on the sales of Brit but ultimately, they had less room of expression. We have witness Bailey struggle for seasons to catch the streetwear wave with his last collection being the peak of that. Here we have Riccardo who had as a job to sell a bit more but also to catch what Bailey didn’t catch.

And now that I really think about it, his Burberry is more or less a reflection of what Burberry was before: Prorsum, Brit, London. And indeed, the younger crowd respond to his « Burberry Brit ».

That System interview with Nicolas and Marie-Amélie from several years ago revealed just how sharp and inescapably shrewd his business sensibility always was. I get the impression he’s absolutely thriving in his much much much more commercial role at LV— and not the bit stifled (he’s clearly holding back since he knows he has to sell to a much more commercial consumer than when he was with Balenciaga). Although first impression is he's not happy, it's still hard to gauge how Riccardo really feels with Burberry since he’s never been all sunshine and smiles like Nicolas. But the presentation and direction of the brand is clearly a marketing strategy that feels very by committee rather than from the sole creative vision of Riccardo at his most creative potency. Editing the collection down to the truer high fashion looks only like some people suggested, is clearly not an option: The department-store range and the basic range must to be included in the shows and campaigns to legitimize their covetable status to the general public/shareholders. Having Gigi wear one of the most pedestrian basic look in the show is not an afterthought— or lazy, thoughtless editing: It’s to hard-sell the pedestrian basic outlet pieces to the impressionable general public.

 

[blusheels]

Katy England womens, Carlos Nazario mens.

Maybe this is also the problem with Burberry under Tisci - the fact that there's 2 different stylists doing the show and kind of doing their own things. The collection as a whole always ends of looking inconsistent, unedited and overdone.

 

[Sai]

This is more of the same messiness from seasons past.
Christopher Baileys Burberry was so spot on.
It was young, British, classic, cool, all things you would want to own forever.
Nobody wants this Burberry.
It is also quite tacky which Burberry is not.

 

[Sai]

ps: you cannot hide how bad it is behind beige and plaid : /