Burberry F/W 2024.25 London

a lot of desirable pieces even if it did look a little bit heavy.
and the colour palette could’ve been a little more varied too.

England or should I say the United Kingdom, has a long *** Autumn/ Winter season so Daniel’s proposition is very fitting with all those coats and boots.

he seems to be on a good path.

I guess we can wait for Spring/ Summer for a hopefully more sleek offering.

and what a treat to see Agyness opening and Lily Donaldson!
 
I cannot with some of those details that look like rags. Apart from that, I thought it was absolutely beautiful. Good casting and soundtrack. I enjoyed watching it. It's not boring. There's a certain ugliness to it that actually looks chic, if that makes sense. If I am to appreciate anything that's derivative of Phoebe's Céline it would be this. Or Bottega. It would make total sense since the CDs used to work for PP.

Also, it's so great to see Agyness open! Missed seeing her!
 
It’s getting better. He’s on the right track, but not there yet. This is certainly his best show so far.

The fit does needs to improve- some of the oversized items look unintentionally large.

I will continue to complain about the shoes, too. It’s just out of balance. There’s a lot going on in the clothes and the bag…zips, straps, hardware, etc…your eye needs relief with each look and it needs something like a plain, sturdy pump with a bare leg to lighten the overall effect up.

I want him to give us just a slightly less “fashion” proposition. I think he’s getting there, but Burberry needs to feel easier and friendlier and a bit more casual in its overall effect. It’s not a dead serious house. You want it to feel like Knotting Hill and Nigella Lawson shopping in Shepherd’s Bush. Posh, but charming and funny.
 
The collection is not as good. The only strong pieces here are the trench coats (some of them). The rest is pretty unremarkable.
The key factor why this collection stands out, compared to the two previous ones, is that he has shown clothes for adults...and not adult-sized childrenswear!

By the way, Naomi should stop with the plastic butchery on her face. She has officially reached "Uncanny Valley"...
 
I like this more than his previous collections. He's got a great understanding of Burberry outerwear now, and this feels extremely British. And I'm a fan of the colour palette myself, I just thing it needs an injection of something else to wake it up and pull it away from the muddiness.

What I can't get past is how unbelievably square all the silhouettes are. Some are a given as they're trenches and overcoats. But even the things in the lighter material are so blocky. It may be his way of designing as I noticed it at his Bottega. I just don't think it's as flattering as it should be. Especially with the floor length kilts and skirts. I get it's a F/W collection, but we could have had at least some knee length ones to get some of that weight off the ground.

The knee slits/full length zips I also don't understand on the pants. It's a cheap gimmicky addition that should have been swapped out for a more tailored iteration to again pull away from the bodily blockiness.
 
It's true, but she was very c*nty and edgy for her time. I don't mind seeing her though, from a nostalgic point of view. Better than seeing Naomi (everywhere).
I dunno. She's always REEKED of 'industry plant' to me. And that whole group of her and Irina Lazarneau, and a few others, was just insufferable.
 
Almost perfect. If the looks are that heavy, there is no need for oversize, and the fitting has to be perfect. But it feels cozy overral. Even the colours.

I would take the deep V necks and the zippers of some trousers out. The rest is really good. It's refreshing to see something grounded in london instead of art projects.
 
It was quite funny and significant that Daniels outing at the end of the show was like he was hiding in the shadows. I still don't like his work for Burberry, but it's less juvenile now and looks a bit bolder.
There were at least three good offerings in a muddy sea of pretentiousness to spot.

That's quite an improvement for him :mrgreen:
 
forget everything else - the coats carry and save the show. hopefully they'll be available with a wider selection of colors because the some of the shades of green used here... no thank you.

it's safely appropriate and an improvement.
 
I dunno. She's always REEKED of 'industry plant' to me. And that whole group of her and Irina Lazarneau, and a few others, was just insufferable.
But isn't every big model kind of an industry plant? Especially the ones from the 2000s. They all were pushed into stardom by one person (Meisel, Prada, etc.). Irina, especially was a favorite of Karl for a year or two.

The ones that weren't 'plants' and did thousands of runway shows every season kinda went nowhere.
 

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