Burberry F/W 2024.25 London

[philophile]

Apparently, it was more to do with the level of tension he created in the studio. I think the racism story was sensational for social media.

Thank you for the clarification. I think I might have read once what you are describing regarding the tension, since he is apparently quite the perfectionist. Creating a story like that for the sake of sensationalism is truly horrid. I hope that he creates his own brand someday if he does exit Burberry at some point. I'd be a total fan.

 

[tourbillions]

did he really get fired? lol such a mess.. make it givenchy/lanvin but with actually skilled designers.

 

[LadyJunon]

Apparently, it was more to do with the level of tension he created in the studio. I think the racism story was sensational for social media.

Why am I not surprised?

 

[Lola701]

did he really get fired? lol such a mess.. make it givenchy/lanvin but with actually skilled designers.

He was fired.
His contract wasn’t up for renewal so, we can’t even say « he was forced to leave ».

 

[Nimsay]

Burberry bye!

 

[tatouejeremie]

not a super interesting review except for the last bit, was he coked out again?

LFW: The United Cohorts of Burberry climaxes the season

Burberry climaxed London Fashion Week Monday night with a powerful collection, a town and country meeting staged in a giant plaid green tent in East London.




A United Cohorts of Burberry collection, where creative director Daniel Lee emphasized the many cultural and cool tribes who wear the brand from urban sophisticates to landed gentry. All the way to the royal family, with multiple references to the late Queen’s preference for silk headscarves.


Worn by a roll call of UK supermodels from Lily Cole in a giant technical taffeta parka trimmed with red tartan, and Karen Elson in military maneuver coat, to Naomi Campbell in a sexy screen goddess column that looked made of fur but was actually woven silk viscose, produced in Como.

A show briefly interrupted by one animal rights protester unfurling a white scroll reading 'Leather Kills', but just for two seconds before security had hustled her outside.



A sturdy take on Burberry where the catwalk was a wide twisting pathway of taiga green bark chips, and half the cast wore sturdy thick soled thigh boots, knee high boots, hiking footwear and platform loafers. Following up on CEO Jonathan Akeroyd’s declared goal of creating a powerful footwear business for Burberry. When one considers how Akeroyd grew a gothic label like Alexander McQueen into a major white sneaker provider, and a multi-hundred-million business division, expect him to succeed at Burberry too.
 


The catwalk was a great setting, but a demanding one, as a several models stumbled around on the bark, as if a little tipsy from pre-show champagne.



The heart of the matter was a series of great coats, cut with funnel necks, zippered shoulders, firemen’s clasps and grommeted belts. Made in worn battleship gray or mud or great new Burberry plaids, in forty shades of petrol, celadon, corn and jade green.



Plus, Burberry had the best front row anywhere between New York and London so far this season: soccer greats Ben Chilwell, Bukayo Saka and Dele Alli; actors Olivia Colman, Joanna Lumley, Joel Edgerton, Jonathan Bailey and Barry Keoghan; rapper Skepta; and 'It Gals' Jourdan Dunn, Lily Allen, Georgia May Jagger, Cara Delevingne and Lila Moss.
 


Backed up by a great soundtrack featuring a mix of Amy Winehouse classics from 'You Know I’m No Good' to 'In My Bed'. 



For girls, Lee cut natty duffle coats with shearling necklines; showed some great ruffled silk gowns in yellow gold and dreamed up beautifully crocheted cocktails; pairing his dresses with buccaneer’s boots.



“I wanted the feeling of outdoorsy elegance, comfort and warmth. That’s the starting point for everything,” explained Lee.



Clearly growing in self-confidence at Burberry, Lee dressed guys in plaid loon pants with zips extending down both legs from hip to ankle. And left them open. And cut chalk stripe suits in David Byrne 'Stop Making Sense' large sizes.



For his third season at Burberry, Lee showed in a huge tent in a distant London park. To emphasize the idea of outdoors/indoors and the sense the audience was in the forest at night, as he sees Burberry as being born in nature. 
 


“My mission was to define who are the people of Burberry. The different characters, from the trench, outerwear and explorer gear to my own urban experience of Burberry. Which was people in the pub or at football grounds. That’s the unique appeal of this brand. It really appeals to everyone,” argued the Yorkshire-born Lee, in a swirl of editors backstage, and several large security staff.


One of whom pointedly took the mobile phone of veteran critic Suzy Menkes and deleted a short video she had shot of Lee. Which for a brand whose DNA is based on explorers, didn’t seem quite right.

 

[gallianostan]

his racism is pretty well-known within higher up fashion circles. he's used the n-word to actual people a plenty. certainly more of a rabid racist than john ever was

 

[StylishCynic]

not a super interesting review except for the last bit, was he coked out again?

Suzy posted a season of him after the SS24 show as well where Lee could most politely be described as tweaking out.

 

[LadyJunon]

Suzy posted a season of him after the SS24 show as well where Lee could most politely be described as tweaking out.

He was also like that for his debut show:

 

[gallianostan]

He was also like that for his debut show:

 

[Lola701]

Suzy posted a season of him after the SS24 show as well where Lee could most politely be described as tweaking out.

I think he might be socially-awkward. But the interpretation on IG might be different.
Then, he might be under an influence, who knows…But I think he socially awkward.

I mean, we saw how John Galliano was able to perform in front of crowds being totally out of this world.

 

[Living Proof]

his racism is pretty well-known within higher up fashion circles. he's used the n-word to actual people a plenty. certainly more of a rabid racist than john ever was

Again with these “word on the street” type of inflammatory statement, coming from someone named gallianostan? And unsurprisingly just saw you wishing d-word on Demna in another thread too. What kind of miserable person are you? And who are these “higher up” people you seem to know? The ones that are still voting for him in awards? Or the multiple senior POC employees that actually followed him to Burberry after he exited Bottega? It’s truly disturbing how anyone with fingers can just type out unsubstantiated rumours like that and people will just run with it. You don’t have to like the guy but this is just pure unjustified malice.

 

[gallianostan]

Again with these “word on the street” type of inflammatory statement, coming from someone named gallianostan? Who are these “higher up” people? The ones that are still voting for him in awards? Or the multiple senior POC employees that actually followed him to Burberry after he exited Bottega? It’s truly disturbing how anyone with fingers can just type out unsubstantiated rumours like that and people will just run with it. You don’t have to like the guy but this is just pure unjustified malice.

found daniel's burner

 

[Living Proof]

found daniel's burner

That’s it? All that criticism I expected at least a shred of originality. Maybe you should focus on what you’re good at and wish assassination on another designer instead.

 

[gallianostan]

That’s it? All that criticism I expected at least a shred of originality. Maybe you should focus on what you’re good at and wish assassination on another designer instead.

is this daniel lee? or is it demna?

 

[Living Proof]

is this daniel lee? or is it demna?

This is the ringmaster of the circus your work at, you left your rubber nose at the bar and you’re late for work.

 

[gallianostan]

This is the ringmaster of the circus your work at, you left your rubber nose at the bar and you’re late for work.

that's it?? all that criticism i expected at least an ounce of originality

 

[Living Proof]

that's it?? all that criticism i expected at least an ounce of originality

You’re right, my apologies, how silly of me to think you’re employed.

 

[gallianostan]

for the record, daniel lee being a rabid racist is literally the most stale, old, well-known bits of fashion tea if you're actually in the know. even if you're not in-the-know lmao just look it up on twitter or reddit this is OLD NEWS. i'm sorry you've been living under a rock but that man does not pay your bills so there is no reason for you to be caping this hard for him!

 

[Living Proof]

for the record, daniel lee being a rabid racist is literally the most stale, old, well-known bits of fashion tea if you're actually in the know. even if you're not in-the-know lmao just look it up on twitter or reddit this is OLD NEWS. i'm sorry you've been living under a rock but that man does not pay your bills so there is no reason for you to be caping this hard for him!

“Fashion tea”, this is how I know you’re some internet wannabe who watches too much drag race. You have no proof except a tweet from a blogger, the same person who lied about a million other things, tried sneaking into shows he wasn’t invited to and has the credibility of a mobster on trial.

I could give 2 ding-a-lings about Daniel Lee, I’d be saying the same thing if your lies are about a stray dog. I’ve heard good and bad things about him from colleagues worked with him but even those that don’t like him denied the racist rumours. If you were on about him being an emotional unstable drama queen I’d be applauding. Oh and calling you out took me a total of 5 mins, so making me look like I’m somehow invested here is only making you look obsessed given that you seem to spend half of your life on here. Have a nice life and try not to wish d-word on too many people, doesn’t bode well for your karma.