Buyers Reports from F/W 08.09

[kimair]

i didn't see this posted...from wwd...

New York: Stores Cheer New Fashion Direction for Fall

Change is good.

Especially when there's a new shape in fashion and it comes at a time when consumers, even those at the luxury level, are reticent to spend money in the face of a cloudy economic picture. That's why buyers generally praised the New York collections that closed Friday, hoping they will drive customers into stores.

Retailers have been praying for a boost. After a dismal holiday season, everyone from discounters to high-end specialty stores reported worse-than-expected January sales, making the month the worst January since the International Council of Shopping Centers began tracking U.S. same-store sales in 1969. The organization said like-for-like sales rose a paltry 0.5 percent for the four weeks ended Feb. 2.

When retailers talk about change, the more pronounced, the better because wardrobes suddenly look dated, and the fall collections were a transformative season in that regard. The shift from the voluminous styles of recent collections to close-to-the-body silhouettes, the move away from dresses to separates, strong jewel-tone colors as opposed to last fall's moody palate of grays and black and the return of the jacket after an absence of many seasons gave retail executives reasons to be hopeful.

"Everybody is really making an effort to make beautiful clothes at a time of financial, economic and political uncertainty," said Sarah Easley, co-owner of Kirna Zabête.

"We are less likely to invest in gowns or strict evening pieces because we believe that in this economic climate our customers are looking for items they can wear many different ways," said Lance Lawson, co-owner of Jake, a men's and women's specialty store with three locations in the Chicago area.

Linda Fargo, senior vice president fashion office and store presentation at Bergdorf Goodman, said prior to fashion week that she was "looking for the emergence of trends compelling enough to inspire us to shop even in a tightening economy." At the close of the collections, she said she'd found them. "Our clients will welcome these figure flattering, narrower silhouettes," she said.

Even Marc Jacobs' collection was more commercial than usual, according to retailers. "Marc was just beautiful," said Scoop NYC co-owner Stefani Greenfield. "What I loved about Marc was that it was just great looking clothes. It was easy and modern and understandable clothing."

The add-on factor of separates raising the amount of the total sale, along with strong accessories, belts, shoes and costume jewelry, also appealed to stores. "The most important trend is the return of the jacket," said Stephanie Solomon, vice president and fashion director of women's ready-to-wear and accessories at Bloomingdale's. "Customers haven't bought a jacket in a very long time."

Likewise, customers will respond to a closer-to-the body silhouette because "they haven't bought it in a while. That sexy secretary look is very appealing to all of us here at Bloomingdale's after seasons of volume and dresses. It looked modern and sexy, and sexy is a word I haven't used in a long time." Pencil skirts and sexy librarian blouses also looked good to Solomon, who noted, "We've been on a dress cycle for many seasons. Sportswear separates are great for retailers" because the customer buys more pieces.

Retailers said that fall 2008 is much more look-driven as opposed to item-driven, which means the styles that walked down the runways could be worn on the street without the wearer coming across as a fashion victim. Total looks equals more ka-ching, ka-ching.

Michael Fink, vice president and women's fashion director at Saks Fifth Avenue:

Trends I'm happy to see: Uptown luxe that's opulent, bordering on decadent versus the downtown, street smart, aggressive sassy spirit. Also, chunky hand-knit coats and shrugs, relaxed jackets, vests, especially in fur, colored tights, boots of all types and platform shoes with crisscross uppers.

My favorite collections were: Proenza Schouler's bold color and folding techniques, Vera Wang's streamlined silhouettes and blingy baubles, Carolina Herrera's hunting party gone wild, Oscar de la Renta's gold-dusted day and evening pieces, Alexander Wang's spirited street smart girls, Marchesa's romantic floral appliquéed gowns and Peter Som, what a smashing debut for Bill Blass.

Linda Fargo, Bergdorf Goodman:

Trends I'm happy to see: A few welcome trends came through this season, most importantly life after "the dress." It ranged from eclectic ensemble dressing as best shown at Thakoon, to a type of Kennedy-era meets Tippi Hedren propriety, beautifully played with at Michael Kors. Our clients will welcome these figure-flattering, narrower silhouettes, chic dresses and narrower skirts layered with over-belted jackets and cardigans. Classic separates nodded to the chic and ease of weekend-wear and the hunt, most significantly seen at Ralph Lauren and Carolina Herrera. We liked the mix of men's wear touches from vests to fabrics mixed back to vintage-inspired abstract prints and florals. The ruffle showed up in numerous collections, vertically at Proenza Schouler, flipping skirt hemlines, even in knits — perhaps a nod to Valentino?

Collections I liked: What stood out was the full on arrival of the tier of designers only a few years ago labeled emerging talent. Thakoon, Doo.Ri, Proenza Schouler, and Jonathan Saunders, all exhibited tremendous sophistication and makes our fashion future even brighter.

Ken Downing, senior vice president and fashion director, Neiman Marcus:

My favorite collections: Proenza Schouler for the mix of femininity and modernity and sophisticated color play that opened the outstanding show, Oscar de la Renta for his elegance and quiet opulence that feels very right for the times and perfect for his legions of fans. Doo.Ri's ultrachic dresses and sportswear and her palate of mint and forest green. Marchesa's Keren Craig and Georgina Chapman delivered a collection that was the perfect mix of glamour, femininity and fantasy, bursting with wonderful color. Jonathan Saunders' hyper chic color blocking has become his signature and brought a new voice to the New York catwalks.

Trends I'm happy to see: Color and print. Michael Kors, Donna Karan, Diane von Furstenberg and Chris Benz showed great color. The customer is always enthusiastic when there is color and print in the market. The shiny satins and luxe laces that are everywhere look terrific and speak to the femininity that defines the Neiman Marcus customer.

There is a strong, sophisticated, sexy woman emerging on the runway, and we are ready for her. Clothes that are closer to the body look newest.

Trends that can go away: We were surprised by the abundance of black and dark, heavy fabrics on the New York runways. After two fall seasons with a less than enthusiastic response from the consumer, it was curious to see a return to a dark palate and thick, weighty fabrics.

Julie Gilhart, senior vice president and fashion director of Barneys New York:

My favorite collections: Alexander Wang captured the feeling of clothes that have spirit, an edge and are at the same time wearable. Derek Lam delivered one of, if not his best collections. It had a tailored elegance and it was refreshing to see him do more eveningwear. Marc Jacobs' soft color palette was the perfect balance to a lot of the black and jewel tones we have been seeing. Narciso Rodriguez continues to develop. No one did a sexy black dress better than he did. L'Wren Scott's collection revolving around the color purple was right on target. Rodarte's attention to detail in construction and fabric made it a stand-out. Three As Four showed an ability to construct patterns into interesting designs that will attract a customer who wants something different. Zero Maria Cornejo was original with a relaxed casual feel that was sophisticated at the same time.

Trends I'm happy to see: The variety in the collections was good. For spring 2008 it was all one note — dresses, color, florals and print. This season there was a lot of black but there was balance in color as well from shots of brights to jewel tones. There seemed to be less dresses, more pants, great sweaters and in general, more unique pieces to choose from. When a collection is good, it does, of course, inspire you to increase your budget!

Ann Watson, fashion director of Henri Bendel:

Trends I'm happy to see: The trend that will have the most legs for us is the mix master. It is not only about mixing prints and patterns, Peter Som's mix of florals with men's wear plaids is a great example, but also about mixing fluid fabrics with more structured, textured fabrics like Diane von Furstenberg's deft mix of chiffon with tweed. It is like the laws of attraction, the concept that opposites attract. It will create excitement in our Bendel girl's wardrobe for fall 2008.

The sweater coat, one item that addresses climate change, is not only easy to layer with but also easy to travel with. It is an absolute must-have. We'll adopt the miniskirt in fabrics that have stretch, keeping the skirt close to the body. The short full skirt is the perfect expression of our customer's flirty, feminine sensibility and the chiffon dress addresses our customer's lifestyle. She can wear it day into night. I also liked the continuation of costume jewelry with Marc Jacobs' broach being a favorite. Floral prints and embellishments and floral accessories were important.

My favorite collections were: Peter Som for his dynamic mix of fabrics, Alexander Wang for his innate pulse on the urban girl, Diane Von Furstenberg for her separates and Catherine Holstein for her spirited first collection and terrific full skirts. The new talent that is coming to the forefront is inspiring. Some of my favorites were Elise Overland, Holstein, Lerario Beatrix and Frank Tell.

Lance Lawson, co-owner of Jake in Chicago and suburban Winnetka:

My favorite collections were: Brian Reyes. During a fashion week where many shows seemed overly styled and tricky, his show had an easy elegance, which is more in sync with the current mood of our customers. Reyes' full Fifties-inspired skirts paired with tucked lady-like blouses seemed especially fresh. Lutz and Patmos continues to impress with their ability to reinvent the knit season after season. The energy and color at Matthew Williamson added a dash of big excitement and drama to an otherwise lack-luster week. We loved the digital floral prints paired with high octane pumps. Sari Gueron's beautiful prints, astute fabric choices and fresh dress bodies were as strong in person as they were on the runway. This collection is her best to date.

Trends I am happy to see: Tailored looks are super important. Our customer is rejecting all things voluminous and no longer wants to look like an adult-child in a shift or swing dress. The return of luxurious knits is a client-pleaser and we loved the detailed cabling and thick plys, which seemed to abound. Day looks traveled beyond predictable sportswear styles and had true work-to-occasion versatility.

 

[kimair]

ny continued...

Kelly Golden, co-owner of Neapolitan, in suburban Winnetka:

My favorite collections: Oscar de la Renta and Michael Kors; they both represented the luxurious sophistication of the season.

Trends I am happy to see: Color, lots of color! amethyst, topaz, malachite and jade emerged on the runways and will be huge commercial hits. The mixing of textures — leathers, furs, wools and embroideries — upped the luxe factor this season. Overall, designers seemed conscious of the global warming effect by designing more seasonless pieces that can be worn year-round. Silhouettes remain more body-conscious and closer to the body than in past seasons. Accessories such as clutches made of exotic skins and color incorporated in handbags to play off strong colors in the [ready-to-wear] collections.

Stephanie Solomon, vice president and fashion director of women's rtw and accessories at Bloomingdale's:

My favorite collections: Ralph Lauren was at his best. Only he can transform lumberjack plaid and into something so chic and elegant. I also thought that Michael Kors showed a remarkable collection. I liked the way he took the inspiration from late Fifties and early Sixties, a time when women always looked beautiful. Somehow he catapulted it into fall 2008 and made it relevant. Marc Jacobs never ceases to surprise us with his on-time show filled with refreshing soft pale colors and a new silhouette based on the blousson. It was uneven but I really loved the idea of the volume in the back and the pulling in the derrière area. It looked like that's the new erogenous zone. Proenza Schouler took their skill to another level — the world class designer level. Gone were the bra tops and girly references and in their place was real craftsmanship based on origami and folding. I loved Diane Von Furstenberg's journey with her Forties spy girl with the layering and strong-shouldered jackets. Jenny Kane is a serious designer with lovely, ladylike lovely fabric. I'm excited to bring Jenni Kayne into Bloomingdale's.

Trends I'm happy to see: Customers will respond to the closer-to-the-body silhouette. I love that color is continuing. It didn't seem like it will be a dark gray season. Shoes are still important and men's wear pants are cropped to show off shoes. The vest was seen not only in men's wear fabrics, but fur, shearling and sweater knits.

Stefani Greenfield, co-owner of Scoop NYC:

My favorite collections: Michael Kors was exquisite — the colors, textures and styling all came together in such a sophisticated and ladylike way. There was really a newness in silhouette and proportion — the below-the-knee pencil, the jackets, the fitted knitwear. Diane von Furstenberg's collection shared a lot of the same elements — the layered jackets and knits with distinct definition at the waist — but with a different feeling. Marc Jacobs was just beautiful. I loved the proportions and softness of it all and I loved the neutral palate. It was really sophisticated.

Trends I'm happy to see: A very strong return to sportswear after seasons of dresses being the key item. The new sportswear look — layered knits, fitted jackets, the below-the-knee pencil skirts and dresses. The absence of volume in favor of sharp tailoring and sheath dresses, and the focus on the waist. Fur — real and faux, a big focus on accessories, such as hats, headbands, gloves, scarves and the continuance of the covered leg.

Sarah Easley, Kirna Zabête:

My favorite collections: We've just started selling Alexander Wang. This year he took his collection to another level. It was effortless chic, which we all know is a huge effort. He touched on a theme of borrowing from the boys with oversize blazers and skinny pants and tanks, and the trend of beading and sequins on a very modest, masculine silhouette. I loved Thakoon, especially the green grid dress, his mixed prints and tweeds and silks. Also, Peter Som's rich, layered look. Narciso Rodriguez's show was the best he's done. It was completely not derivative of anything else. He's on his own plane and designing in his own vacuum. It was sexy, futuristic, subtle and sleek. And the back details...wow, that was polished. Elise Overland's collection had a backstage pass element, no surprise for a woman whose former career was a wardrober for a rock band. Erin Fetherston's collection was much more grounded. She had dramatic silhouettes but less ethereal twinkleness. I was glad to see her grand sweeping proportions done in a more realistic way.

Trends I was happy to see: Color, print and sequins. I love a masculine silhouette in a feminine fabric. I love the sleek skinny pant with the oversize blazer. Belts over knits and granny shoes.

Trend I'm happy to see disappear: I'm definitely not mourning the loss of volume and baby doll looks. I'm glad its over. The layering trend that was very common the last two falls has subsided to more wovens. I like a cleaner, belted layering with a jacket.

 

[kimair]

next, milan

Milan: Select Shows Salvage Milan Season

Through the buyers' eyes, the Italian collections offered a smorgasbord of diverse fashions — not all of them appetizing or easy to digest. Many retailers described a less-than-stellar Milan season, rescued by certain collections and a new long, lean silhouette; an emphasis on separates, and Seventies touches.

"Where are the new ideas? Where is the rich Milanese tailoring tradition? Where are the accessories? Where is the emotion?" lamented Michael Fink, senior vice president and fashion director at Saks Fifth Avenue.

"In a season of so many directions — we've seen everything from clean modernism, gypsy, floral and every decade under the sun — it actually is trite to talk about trends in the traditional sense," said Sarah Rutson, fashion director at Hong Kong-based Lane Crawford. "Retailers' individual take on the season will be the voice for their customer: seeing the woman as an individual, not a slave to trends."

Yet some lauded the variety show. "It takes all kinds," said Linda Fargo, senior vice president, fashion office and store presentation at Bergdorf Goodman. "This translates into more choices, more means of expression. There is a new subdued luxury, leaving behind last fall's glam surfaces, feathers and fur."

Buyers cheered innovative tailoring, folkloric and natural touches, vests, thigh boots and a strong offering of outerwear. But they said that, in this age of global warming, they would take a pass on bulky knits and other too-heavy fare.

Budgets in Italy will be flat to slightly up, retailers said, citing among standout collections Prada, Gucci, Marni, Burberry Prorsum, Bottega Veneta, Jil Sander and 6267.

Here's what buyers had to say:

Marigay McKee, general merchandising director of fashion and accessories, Harrods, London: "Milan's always the moneymaker for us. It's been a little less consistent than other seasons, and the showrooms were often better than the runway. Pucci was beautiful; Fendi was great; Bottega Veneta was stunning, and Burberry Prorsum was my favorite show. Thigh boots were everywhere. It's all about texture and embellishment, and we're seeing a lot more leather and suede than we're used to. The vest came on as an important piece, and feathers as a detail. We're definitely going to do an Icarus story at Harrods. There were a lot of sleeveless and three-quarter-sleeve coats, and I liked the petrol blues, greens and eggplant shades." She noted that budgets would be "level" on the whole, with bigger spends at Marni and Pucci.

Ken Downing, senior vice president and fashion director, Neiman Marcus: "A strong, sensual women is emerging this season. Because color is so important to our customers, we were encouraged by the amount we saw in Milan, especially optimistic color, really led by Marni. Prada's lace and linear shapes were modern, romantic, and the elegance of the collection was overwhelming. Bottega Veneta had understated elegance. It was very chic and had a seasonless quality. I thought Burberry looked terrific, and Versace's evening dresses were very current. I can't imagine them not being on a plane to the Academy Awards. There was a real modernity to the collection. And 6267 has brought an entirely new vocabulary to Milan with the couture quality of its presentation. We're very enthusiastic about how designers in Milan paid attention to seasonless fabrics, and we're very happy to see volume done in a soft way."

Cedric Charbit, vice president of the buying office and general merchandise manager of women's fashion, Printemps: "Overall, Milan was not so great, but I am glad some designers are finding their way. Jil Sander is the perfect example. The collection was clean and strong with amazing work on the coats. Gucci was also by far one of the strongest and most directional shows. It will retail extremely well and will drive the European high street. Marni is also a great collection; Dolce & Gabbana and Burberry Prorsum gave some strong fall statements, and Prada is pushing the limit again and marks a strong change. All the looks turned to a very long and lean silhouette and we are getting rid of the couture trend. My customer will want a minidress, a masculine coat, a Seventies pant, a shearling coat or vest, a fur jacket, a masculine jacket, scarves and silk foulards and paisley prints on blouses, shirts or maxidresses. We will spend as much as last year in Milan and we expect a very good season for the Seventies look."

Barbara Atkin, vice president, fashion direction, Holt Renfrew: "Although Milan started as a somber season, it ended on a high note by offering a variety of beautiful and luxurious clothing with an infusion of newness. We saw a combination of the strict and subdued juxtaposed against a kaleidoscope of color, print and detail, all adding up to a decadent, luxurious bohemian style. We saw influences from the Seventies with long, lean silhouettes and covered-up clothes playing against the short and swinging. The 'separates' dressing that had its roots in the Seventies is making a strong return. We will be looking for luxurious coats; cropped or shapely jackets with accented shoulders; soft, folkloric dresses, blouses and skirts; cardigans and sweater coats; skinny and cropped pants, and man-tailored suits. We will be slightly increasing our budget over last year, as we believe our customer will continue to come to us looking for the new. Our favorite collections out of Milan were Prada, Marni, Gucci, Roberto Cavalli, Jil Sander and Pucci."

Linda Fargo, senior vice president and fashion director, Bergdorf Goodman: "Pure line, simplified deep fall colors, often used monochromatically, and sculpted silhouettes look right in these times — the body quietly covered and protected almost head to toe, notably at Jil Sander and Bottega Veneta and quietly revealed at Prada with another breakaway collection. In striking contrast was an excitingly embellished and nomadic luxe bohemian mood at Gucci. Marni gave us exceptionally artistic color and silhouette combinations, taking ensemble dressing to new heights and making interesting accessories count more than ever. 6267's star continues to rise with a completely original and strikingly graphic show of modern tailoring. As a category, outerwear stands out as an increasingly important component, and, interestingly, as a detail, the ruffle has crossed the pond from New York and applied itself from shoes and handbags to shoulders and hemlines. The dress looked newest when it approached a sheath, versus volumized, and lengths presented many options, with knee and just-below-knee lengths looking newest."

Stephanie Solomon, vice president of fashion direction, Bloomingdale's: "This has been a week of mixed messages, but good messages. It began with Armani, which I loved. He brought back the statement jacket and his use of velvet was very elegant. It was modern and I think it will do very well at retail. Christopher Bailey at Burberry also returned to his roots and he celebrated the coat. There were classic coats, but there was always a twist....In general, I would say there is a return to designers doing what they do best."

Solomon said the idea of taking classics and revamping them for fall looked "really fresh...because in this economy and culture, you do want to recoil to your basics, but then again, you want to be a little bit rebellious and twist it so that you make a statement." Other standout collections included Gucci's "bohemian rich hippie at her peak"; Marni, D&G and Versace for their use of color; 6267 for "the worksmanship, attention to detail...and silhouette," and Roberto Cavalli's "spring dresses for fall."

Michael Fink, vice president and women's fashion director, Saks Fifth Avenue: "In a Milan season limp with trend, the time is right for design that pushes boundaries relevant for modern-thinking, working women — not the gimmicks nor the rehash of decades-old ideas seen on many runways. What was right in Milan? The impeccable tailoring techniques and fabric development at Jil Sander; a merry color palette in user-friendly layered silhouettes at Marni; the relentless and provocative development of a theme at Prada...developing items just right for an arctic winter; statement coats, and bulky knits."

Julie Gilhart, senior vice president and fashion director, Barneys New York: "Clothes that make women feel beautiful and alluring make sense. Trends are for items, not for head to toe. The new long, lean silhouette was the news of the season, and we loved the whole story at Prada and Bottega Veneta. Jil Sander's strong tailoring gave each piece importance, and Versace seemed so timeless. That said, we would have liked to see more 'seasonless' clothes on the runway. There seemed to be way too many wool tweeds and furs, but overall, Milan gave us what we needed."

Sarah Rutson, fashion director, Lane Crawford, Hong Kong: "It's a strange season, but it must be said there have been some individual standouts. The dark sexuality of Prada was hypnotic: I was drawn in and so will the customer be. Jil Sander crafted clothing for women in an intelligent way without getting carried away. At Marni, Consuelo Castiglioni knows how to keep her faithful following happy. My Marni business is always consistent and the shapes and color palette will continue to keep the faithful happy. Burberry Prorsum as well seem to continue the right element of cool and commerce. Christopher has totally defined with the modern British heritage house."

Jennifer Wheeler, vice president of designer apparel, Nordstrom: "Our existing designer business continues to grow and we have an aggressive store-opening schedule this year. We are mindful of the current U.S. economic climate and have to be sharp in our editing, but are always looking for great new product. The Milan collections stood on their own, with the silhouettes: long, lean and architectural at Jil Sander and 6267; layered, textured with beautiful color contrasts at Marni; standout outerwear at Burberry Prorsum, and the luxe boho at Gucci, which we think our customers will love. Our favorite collections were Jil Sander, Marni, 6267, Prada and Burberry Prorsum. And Versace was great: luxe and leggy, with great color and print — a nice end to the week. Key items include the skinny pant, a jacket or coat with an exaggerated collar, Seventies vests and something in tweed."

Sheikh Majed Al-Sabah, president, Kuwait-based Villa Moda Lifestyle: "Milan was tough. This was a season where we had to look carefully to find what is interesting for our market. The collections that I loved were a handful. I was totally in love with Prada, one of the strongest ever. Every shoe was a piece of art; they looked like they were Jeff Koons sculptures. Marni was amazing, mixing colors and prints in an avant-garde way. Another amazing collection that will destroy my budget was Gucci, an unbelievable standout. I loved everything: the furs, the evening, the accessories. It looked like Yves Saint Laurent's 'gypsy collection,' circa 2008."

Rosi Biffi, owner, Biffi and Banner, Milan: "I loved Marni and Gucci. At Marni, the colors were chic, very refined, with great new proportions and beautiful, soft fabrics. The volumes were contemporary, and will fit everybody. Gucci was strong and aggressive and the colors were beautiful. I loved the dresses, the jackets, the furs....I usually don't like embroidered furs, but these were done with brio, in a refined way. Generally speaking, I think the designers really looked for new ways to offer innovation and exclusivity."
Hamdi Kulahcioglu, head of fashion buying for Unitim Moda Magazacilik A.S., which operates Harvey Nichols Istanbul: "After seeing most of the collections, we can tell that the fall-winter 2008 season is an explosion of colors. In nearly every show, you can see bright green, purple, fuchsia and cobalt blue. Floor-length dresses, collarless and also double-breasted jackets and jumpsuits are the flashy styles of this season. Fur and flannel has been used everywhere."

Carla Sozzani, owner of 10 Corso Como: "It was a beautiful week. Prada was wonderful, spectacular: the look, the lace, the colors, the intriguing spirit of the collection. I also liked Burberry, the high-waist dresses and the beautiful proportions, and Roberto Cavalli, which was an unexpected, romantic surprise. I also liked his mix of colors and the prints."

Tiziana Cardini, fashion director, La Rinascente: "There is a strong trend toward constructed clothes and thought-out designs. The structures, the volumes, the cuts are not fluid or light. The fact that these pieces are very refined is a pro, but, at the same time, the fact that the shapes are difficult and overdesigned is a con. In any case, this fashion is all more grown-up, with more attention to details and constructions, although it doesn't necessarily enhance the body's shape. Jil Sander was masterly, with softer lines, but thought out. Prada was directional and stunning, as it was last season."

 

[kimair]

finally, paris...

The Power of Paris: Suits, Jewelry, LBDs Leave Buyers Upbeat

Bookended by strong collections from Balenciaga and Lanvin, Paris Fashion Week delivered enough fashion excitement to leave retailers smiling.

While some lamented a preponderance of all-black dressing, a dearth of fresh trends and a strong euro that dents their purchasing power, most buyers said the French capital redeemed itself with strong tailoring, terrific costume jewelry and everything from fur to appealing new takes on the little black dress.

"Paris always crystallizes the season," said Linda Fargo, senior vice president, fashion office and store presentation, Bergdorf Goodman. "It's clear that there's a balance of options, dominated by sharp, clean, neo-ladylike dressing [on the one hand]...and soft, languid romanticism on the other."

"The Paris collections add up to a season of glamour and restraint," added Barbara Atkin, vice president, fashion direction, at Canada's Holt Renfrew. "Overall, there was a sense of refinement through beautiful tailoring, volume and surface interest and an eclectic new autumnal color palette."

Most retailers said budgets would remain flat to slightly up, with each item scrutinized for a strong value-excitement quotient.

Strong-shouldered jackets, high-neck blouses, statement necklaces, body-conscious dresses and sharp stilettos were cited as key elements of the season, while widely praised collections included Balenciaga, Yves Saint Laurent, Dries Van Noten, Lanvin, Junya Watanabe, Givenchy, Chanel and Alexander McQueen.

Here's what retailers had to say:

Averyl Oates, buying director, Harvey Nichols, London: "Paris has been an incredibly strong season with a fresh boost of energy, giving food for thought going into a fall recession. It's difficult to choose from, but our favorite shows were Balenciaga, Givenchy, McQueen, Lanvin and Yves Saint Laurent. The print is over, with dominant trends focused on the silhouette (molded, clean), color (black, possibly a nod to the current general economic feeling) and understated luxury. There is a strong return to tailoring, power suiting with shoulder detail and trousers. Hemlines have also fallen. Midcalf has been everywhere, not just in Paris. Tight jackets with volume skirts are key. When there's a buoyant economy, hemlines rise, and when there's a slump, hemlines fall. We're calling it recession dressing."

Jeffrey Kalinsky, executive vice president, designer merchandising, Nordstrom: "I found it to be a good season and what I treasure about Paris is there's something around every corner. This time, I'm in Paris a total of nine days and that's because there's so much shopping to do. You have to extract messages, and what I took away was a very studied, lean, clean, precise message. My four favorites were Balenciaga, Lanvin, Dries Van Noten and Yves Saint Laurent. The black dress is going to be such an important item. Jewelry was very important, and I thought there were outstanding shoes on the runway: very high or very flat."

Kalinsky said budgets for Paris would be at least "the same and possibly more. For example, I found a new shoe designer, Charlotte Olympia, that blew me away, and you can only find that in Paris."

Joan Burstein, owner, Browns, London: "Paris was pretty good, especially after Italy. It's still the fashion city. Balenciaga was a defining moment in a very sophisticated and very wearable way. At the other extreme, I loved Junya Watanabe, and Lanvin was wonderful and modern for a younger person. Givenchy was a delightful surprise. And I adored Dries Van Noten, which was a nice continuation of summer. Other favorites included Yves Saint Laurent, Balmain's dresses and Alexander McQueen's gorgeous coats. Paris didn't deliver any significant trends, though florals still continue and there's wonderful fur to be had in Paris. Jewelry seems to be the new bag, and shoes are still very important."

Julie Gilhart, senior vice president, fashion director, Barneys New York: "Paris is still so much stronger in terms of overall ideas and creativity. Rick Owens continues to successfully evolve his cultlike collection and had great new jackets. Balenciaga can, in a small amount of exits, show the most beautifully 'classic' black dresses to intricately painted latex coats. Givenchy showed a well-rounded collection with the best shirts and pants. Dries Van Noten continued his genius play on prints from spring. YSL was strongly minimal, but luxurious, and showed Stefano Pilati's beautiful tailoring. Alessandra Facchinetti's debut collection at Valentino was exactly what we wanted — chic and classic, yet something that felt new. And finally, Lanvin's powerful collection showed that women can be strong and sexy, but beautiful at the same time."

Polina Kitsenko, co-owner, Podium, Moscow: "We've seen lots of checks, military elements, such as cargo pants, and male tailoring for women, in particular tuxedo jackets and tailcoats. Black has really been overused. Standout collections were Givenchy, Balmain, Rick Owens, Ann Demeulemeester, Balenciaga and Rue du Mail. I was fascinated by Givenchy. We've seen lots of furs. Revillon's collection by Peter Dundas was really beautiful, and [Rick Owens'] Palais Royal line is always amazing."

Beth Buccini and Sarah Easley, owners, Kirna Zabête, New York: "The season was a little disappointing in terms of shows, yet there were still plenty of wonderful things to buy in the showrooms. The black dresses at Balenciaga were beautiful. Stella McCartney always provides real clothes in a cool girl kind of way. Same with Rick Owens. Chloé was better. Nina Ricci had such an amazing palette. The prints were gorgeous, but the pants were difficult. Lanvin is always a favorite and we did like it, but we left wanting more. We're excited by newer designers like David Szeto and Louise Goldin. We can't wait to see Azzedine Alaïa. Luckily, New York was great, which is especially timely with the weak dollar."

Sarah Rutson, fashion director, Lane Crawford, Hong Kong: "Paris again has been a standout over all other fashion capitals, even though I feel it is too dangerous to be overall all-black. It leads to a very dull floor visually. Paris had a film-noir sensibility: a stronger sexuality with poetic romanticism mixed in. It's been too much about the dress these past few seasons, so thank you Paris for spearheading a return to tailoring. Without question, the top shows were Balenciaga, Givenchy, Lanvin and Alexander McQueen, plus a special mention for two new-generation designers: Haider Ackerman and Sharon Wauchob, which are extremely consistent, growing businesses for us."

Rutson questioned whether the customer would embrace narrow, midcalf skirts. Other key details include high-neck Victorian blouses, wrist cuffs, big necklaces, narrow and cropped pants and pointed stiletto shoes.

Michael Fink, vice president and women's fashion director, Saks Fifth Avenue: "It's back to the gym as the sleek, lean, precise lines at YSL, Lanvin and Balenciaga show off a woman's shape again. Tailored jackets at Chanel, and especially as interpreted by Junya Watanabe and Yohji Yamamoto, are contoured around the body, emphasizing shoulders and hips. This looks newest this season. Although it's still a season of black and gray, there is color to be found in winter florals, multicolored prints, and decorative fabrics scattered throughout the collections...an antidote to the severe tailoring elsewhere. The absence of accessories on the runways has been extremely interesting. Everyone will need a boot wardrobe for fall. And when in doubt, add a big and bold necklace to any outfit."

Carla Sozzani, owner, 10 Corso Como, Milan: "Paris is never disappointing. Balenciaga was my favorite. He has a strong vision of a woman that is ever contemporary. I also liked Alexander McQueen very much. It was beautiful in shapes, forms and colors. It made me dream. There are not too many collections like that anymore. It's a moment when we need to see clothes made by somebody who knows how to make them. I'm really tired of vintage. I'm not a fan of the late Seventies. I prefer to look at today."

Nicole Fischelis, vice president and fashion director of women's, Macy's: "Christian Lacroix was at the top of the list this season: the black dresses were superb, as well as the multicolored hand-painted coat. Paris Fashion Week was about collectible pieces such as Giambattista Valli, Jean Paul Gaultier's trenchcoats and pantsuits, Chloé and Kenzo, while tailoring at Karl Lagerfeld was perfect. Sonia Rykiel's explosion of colors and Lanvin's one-shoulder dresses were also highlights. As for Emanuel Ungaro, it was a great new beginning very much in the vein of what Ungaro stood for."

Cedric Charbit, vice president of the buying office and general merchandise manager of women's fashion, Printemps: "Paris was the best of all the fashion weeks. Balenciaga, Yves Saint Laurent, Lanvin and Dries Van Noten have continued to prove their reign over the Paris runways. Chanel and Givenchy are always very good, but this season's collections were particularly strong. "

Charbit cited bohemian luxury, hardened somber looks (some with metallic detailing) and a return to classics with a modern touch as key directions. "Rick Owens was superb. A combination of chic and futuristic or very modern is a very important direction, as are elongated and defined silhouettes."

Majed Al-Sabah, owner, Villa Moda Lifestyle, Kuwait: "You really need to edit a lot of collections to get what our market needs. The strongest collection in Paris was Miu Miu. I really loved Dries Van Noten for his colorful silhouettes that are perfect for every woman in our market, YSL's futuristic approach, Lanvin's chic collection and Rue du Mail's embellished dresses. Also, I was so happy with Alessandra Facchinetti's Valentino collection, which is perfect for our sophisticated customers. It offered the best eveningwear in Paris."

Kelly Golden, owner, Neapolitan, Winnetka, Ill.: "Paris was uplifting and romance ruled the runways. The jacket continued to evolve, with lots of sleeve detail, coattails and with a more molded silhouette. There were still punches of color, which was a nice continuation from spring. Lanvin and Alexander McQueen were both standout collections and continue to push fashion in a new direction. Alessandra Facchinetti's first collection for Valentino was fantastic and Andrew Gn pulled off an amazingly gorgeous collection with minimal embellishments — a departure from his usual over-the-top embroideries. Overall, we are investing more than last season in the European collections despite the weak dollar. Paris delivered some special pieces that were too good to pass up."

Ken Downing, senior vice president and fashion director, Neiman Marcus: "The body-conscious shapes Nicolas Ghesquière and Alber Elbaz showed ignited a new modern glamour — one that I anticipate and hope will continue into the spring season. Also, Stefano Pilati's strong, confident shapes made for a very exciting collection at YSL. Color and pattern are important to our customers and Dries Van Noten's florals and marble prints played against black were outstanding. We are enthusiastic about the autumnal shades and interesting fabric mixes that enlivened the sportswear at Nina Ricci. Another strong collection is Chanel: Karl Lagerfeld delivered great new jacket shapes that were on the money. In general, we're seeing lace everywhere; we love all the satins, and there were great accessories, including open-toe booties and spectacular stilettos."

Linda Fargo, senior vice president, fashion office and store presentation, Bergdorf Goodman: "By category, dresses are newest when they approach a longer sheath; coats wonderfully varied and integral to outfitting; jackets newest when sculpted. A must-have item will be the statement costume necklace, and an aggressive modified stiletto to play back to the newer long, lean silhouettes. After black, the noncolor color of the season: purple. Valentino struck a nice balance between tailoring and softness, and reached out to a new audience. The beautiful killer chic was a welcome shock at YSL, and ultimate applause to Lanvin for creating the most desirable effortless chic. Ralph Rucci defines modern luxury with rare originality and a celebration of beauty."

Barbara Atkin, vice president, fashion direction, Holt Renfrew, Canada: "Paris is the grand finale to the season, reconfirming its position as incubator of new ideas; from bold, confident power women at YSL, Akris and Balenciaga, to the soft romance of light, seasonless clothes in a kaleidoscope of prints and materials as seen at Dries Van Noten, Chloé, Jean Paul Gaultier and Nina Ricci. Key elements include strong-shouldered jackets, enveloping coats, easy knits, feminine dresses and blouses that will soften the masculine tailoring, and hemlines — whether long, short or asymmetric — that add newness. Paris is the city where we hunt for new names and this season we will buy Commuun, Sacai and To Long Nam. The collections we loved were YSL, Balenciaga, Akris, Dries Van Noten, Nina Ricci and Lanvin."

 

[kimair]

paris continued...

Linda Dresner, owner, Linda Dresner, New York and Birmingham, Mich.: "I feel individuality is more important than ever. There's so much to choose from and it's all expensive, so it better have a message. [Given the strong euro], we're spending as much, but bringing home less. We're trying to choose clothes that are animated and wearable at the same time. There was a hint of English tailoring, a lot of interesting sweaters and fur everywhere in chubbies and vests: sometimes fake, sometimes real and mixed with leather. We loved the black dresses at Balenciaga, Undercover's wonderful tunics and ponchos, the fake Persian coat with the cutout lips at Comme des Garçons, Junya Watanabe's strict suits with caped backs and long curving skirts — very seductive — and Tao's mohair dresses."

Elizabeth and Dominick Lepore, owners of Jimmy's, Brooklyn and the Hamptons, N.Y.: "Our standout collections in Paris were Balmain, Rick Owens, Elie Saab, Emanuel Ungaro and Giambattista Valli. After a season of print and color, the little black dress looks so fresh again. The new dark leg continues to be seen with texture, looking newest with colored heavy shoes."

Ann Watson, vice president and fashion director, Henri Bendel: "Paris can best be summed up as a tension of opposites. The severity of austerity chic as exemplified by YSL and Louis Vuitton contrasted against the more opulent mix of colors, furs and prints and patterns featured at Dries Van Noten and John Galliano. Key messages were the long and lean silhouette, the statement necklace, and the new refinement of layering with the tailored jacket and the skinny pant being pivotal components. Some key items that will be must-haves are weightless furs and fur scarves, the new Asian-inspired floral prints, men's wear and school uniform plaids and the continuation of sweater dressing. I am also really excited about the color palette: the range of winter pales to midtone brights. Favorites were magenta, persimmon, ocher, hot pink, cherry red, yellow and the variety of blues and purples like mallard blue and royal purple. Favorite shows were Sharon Wauchob, Alexander McQueen, Haider Ackerman, Balmain and Ungaro."

 

[reese06]

How funny that Gucci was almost a favorite to all of the buyers and most people on this board hated it..

 

[JuiceMajor]

^ That probably explain why she is still churning out clothes that look like that.

 

[Spike413]

^ It was probably a favorite because there were so many salable pieces. What the buyers love is from a retail standpoint. But what's interesting is how the same handful of Parisian collections were favorites here on the board, with the critics and commercially.

 

[aldn]

Seems interesting.

 

[Lena]

:blibk:
reading these reports, i have a terrible deja-vu feeling

season after season and hooked on the fat credit cards of their usual clients.. the same big buyers keep investing -and selling- on the same old labes.
their reasoning falls a bit flat on my ears.

 

[jhaime]

They're right, in the fact that the euro & pound, being so much stronger than the dollar, has a huge impact on expenditure & sales...what they all seem to forget mind, is that their beloved Prada & Gucci are sub-contracted to slave-labour factories. it's going to be a very slow & profressive transition...but multi-label progressive/avant-garde stores, such as Seven are slowly expanding their inventory each season, with similar stores popping up in other mature cities. patience...

 

[Deleted member 103203]

^i agree

 

[Deleted member 103203]

every buyer says Prada, Gucci, Marni, Balenciaga,etc,etc....its getting old after a while

 

[Bidwell]

Thank you for the informative report Kimair, much appreciated.

 

[DuTTyRoCK112]

Face it, the gucci boots and sandals are going to sell like hotcakes. They're for everyone who caught on to what Burberry and Louboutin were doing too late, or needed a more accessible version to really 'get' it.

 

[softgrey]

....
thanks for posting this kim...

 

[alix*]

Majed Al-Sabah, owner, Villa Moda Lifestyle, Kuwait: "You really need to edit a lot of collections to get what our market needs. The strongest collection in Paris was Miu Miu

Miu Miu? I was hoping no one would mention it.

 

[kiddokiddo]

Thank you for the insight, kimair...I'm happy to see some of the smaller guys are being mentioned, the likes of Sharon Wauchob, Haider Ackermann, Communn, sacai...etc