Calvin Klein Collection F/W 2025.26 New York

She will show both men’s and women’s wear, but the collection is not unisex. “I really feel that unisex is just sloppy fitting,” she said. “Bodies are different.”

No street wear or oversize silhouettes.

"There are no shoulder pads. Sometimes tailoring shapes the body, but I wanted the body to shape the tailoring."

I would like to quote her NYT profile and then looking at this? Definitely could have done with more editing, shorter sleeves and no hands clutching coats. I feel like it lacks sensuality which is something very CK.
 
“Most of the time, we see women as objects of desire,” she said. “But what if they become the people who desire?” - Veronica Leoni, via NY Times

Expect that she doesn't and (probably can't) desire either because Philo (rightfully) slashes the genitals of anyone who dares to copy her work.
Oh she thinks she's intellectual 😂😩
 
Sometimes I feel like people like Casey Cadwallader and Michael Rider can play the role of leading "intellectual fashion", but this woman whatever her intellectuality is worse than the Raf gang for this brand because it is as bland as those by the Jil Sander duo.
 
The show was held in Carolyn Bessette’s former office:

Of course anytime anyone passes this building another piece of its history comes up. This was the office of Carolyn Bessette Kennedy, who worked as a publicist for Calvin Klein. This address was in fact believed to be where she first met her future husband, who had come in for a suit fitting.
TOWN&COUNTRY
 
“Most of the time, we see women as objects of desire,” she said. “But what if they become the people who desire?” - Veronica Leoni, via NY Times
Did she just discover the concept of "the female gaze"? Oh, gurl...

Using CBK's office just seems creepy to me, bad juju... I wouldn't want to reference any of the Kennedys. I guess She knows the collection won't hold up on it's own, so you have to bring in so many references to the past. 😬
 
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This is not good. It's too referential, mainly of Jil Sander and Phoebe Philo, the tailoring is clunky, the shapes (capes, sleeves, shoulders) are clumsy, and it lacks the straightforward appeal of good American sportswear (which Calvin Klein was all about). It resembles what The Row and Louise Trotter's Carven have been showing, but lacks the romanticism.

But there is a germ of something good - the 4 or 5 looks that are closer to the body, some composed of easy separates - like the sweater, shirt and slacks combos. They look very CK but also very Calvin Klein Collection. They echo Brooke Shields in the 70s, and also Carolyn Besette in the 90s - she should have built the collection around these looks.

Whatever the case, I don't expect these clothes to sell. The plaid, denim, knitwear and parkas will probably be reinterpreted for the diffusion lines, hopefully with some success. But I would gag if we get underwear branded with "Collection" on the waistband.
 
It could’ve been edited better, but i like how late 80s 90s accurate this is. Very sex and the city season 1, american psycho, fatal attraction etc. It does feel very new york.
If it gets the right injection of sexiness it could become something more interesting

I’m more interesting about the price, maybe I go to purchase some underwear and see if it worth
 
i kinda like the simplicity and referential throwback nature of this thing, but i'd like to have seen more aggressive fabric experimentation... zuccheli and costa did some weird stuff from time to time; didn't always work, but it was usually fun to look at.
 
Frankly speaking I don’t consider copy pasting number of designers and slapping it onto the runway claiming great comeback of iconic brand. There’s not a single look I haven’t already seen somewhere else within past year - if you’re having such an impressive CV maybe push bit harder and offer us a different, fresher take on minimalism…
 
Why must the menswear pants be so baggy? I don't see why anyone would ever want to wear those.
When I think of CK I think of Francisco Costa's collections still haha

Maybe her spring summer will be better.
And baggy pants are out of fashion already… she is such a follower.
 

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