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Carol Christian Poell - Designer
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tricotineacetat
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He is a stunning tailor with a great eye for proportion, although his aesthetic choices are for my personal taste too firmly playing into the cards of the StyleZeitgeist-ian following of so-called 'avant-garde' fashion enthusiasts that love seeing garments hanging from butcher's hooks. Despite the fact that he's clearly not interested to work for any of the conglomerates, I would love to see him strip all the deconstructed gimmicks and do something very clean and minimal, such as Jil Sander or even Hermès, brands who have a very different following but that might still enjoy the flawlessness of his tailoring and finishing.
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just want to make sure that ccp had been ccp long before faust's site was founded. and that many of the members there were actually wearing his designs. and whether they are the members or not there have been some for whom ccp is just something to wear daily.
I wear his stuff myself. though I wouldn't wear it when I'm not feeling well. like I would not want to get in such a car as delta HF integrale in that situation. ccp mostly feels to me characterized by certain kind of excess, indeed.
but seriously I'd like you to visit the store and check the pieces in person. please. because there are also some things that could be more minimal than jil sander and hermes.
carol was already well-known to the industry when he launched his own label. he had been working behind brands ( german, italian, and austrian) as their secret weapon. in the interview (1998), he stated he preferred quality to quantity. "then I'd just be happy if ccp is worn by those who really like it."
I wear his stuff myself. though I wouldn't wear it when I'm not feeling well. like I would not want to get in such a car as delta HF integrale in that situation. ccp mostly feels to me characterized by certain kind of excess, indeed.
but seriously I'd like you to visit the store and check the pieces in person. please. because there are also some things that could be more minimal than jil sander and hermes.
carol was already well-known to the industry when he launched his own label. he had been working behind brands ( german, italian, and austrian) as their secret weapon. in the interview (1998), he stated he preferred quality to quantity. "then I'd just be happy if ccp is worn by those who really like it."
tricotineacetat
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No doubt about that - CCP has stayed consistent since he founded his house - Although I would say that the influence of independent retailers like L'Eclaireur, Darklands or Atelier New York as well as platforms like StyleZeitgeist greatly shaped the overall aesthetics within which collections like CCP were marketed and found their respective audiences. Some of CCPs design details since, such as knuckles or elbows exposing metal plating, fall quite a bit in the gimmick-y territory favored by this audience and probably do very little to consumers who are unaffiliated with this particular style, but might just find him to be a brilliant tailor. Then again, this kind of fashion exists in a universe of it's own and hardly touches upon the conversations held elsewhere in fashion.
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found what could be taken as his reasoning. from 1998:
"with my clothes, the message is in a single piece. most designers have lost that. I just cannot see it in the end. it is difficult to find a jacket which has personality. if you take away the styling of the show and all that stuff, you are left with nothing - just an ordinary jacket."
"I'm not so hungry to be famous."
he also said there he didn't know what's going to happen in the future though.
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maybe it's impossible to stand independent of zeitgeist. if there is something that doesn't include it, it's not fashion any more. mainstream or niche, center or periphery, fashion is fashion. in this sense, yes. there should be sign of the times engraved on ccp. at least on ccp as what we see in the wild, shops, or online.
his items really have color variations, perhaps 6 or 7 colors on average. but if an assembly of certain type that you are talking about has serious buying power and stores try to meet the demand, what we come across tends to be dark, doesn't it?
even though his colletions could have appeared differently.
I think the elbows, knuckles, etc came from his constant interests in joints, prosthesis, the "protection" theme, and schiele.
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I am wondering if anyone has more information about this citation -- I've clicked through the digital version of Bomb #73, Fall 2000 on JSTOR and this image is not present. Similarly, if one searches JSTOR for Carol Christian Poell in BOMB magazine nothing comes up. I'd very much be interestsed in knowing where this is actually sourced from and confirmation that it is indeed CCP related.Bomb #73 Fall 2000
Sketches 1999
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I believe one of the writings is a quote from Georges Bataille.
I've tracked down the Bataille quote, which is from a not very well-known text called Scissiparity (C-C-Parity, if we want to play with it here), a text which I have been fascinated by for even longer than I've been interested in CCP-- a text which, to me, feels very in conversation to the more infamous Madame Edwarda, and was written shortly before (I think) Bataille was to complete On Nietzsche. The quote in English roughly translated to as follows: “If intelligence resembles a woman … I should like that mine, in one resolute movement, resembles an impious woman.”
If the sketches are indeed CCP's and are indeed from Fall of 1999, the timing is fascinating, both because it would seem to very much inform both the Trilogy of Monotypologies (AW99/00-SS00-AW00/01) and also Pure/Impure (AW00/01). I would love to follow this through. The Fe-Male collections of the turn of the century are far better documented than the Male collections; I would specifically be interested in more information on Pure-Impure (AW00/01) if anyone can help me out. I think there's a lot to engage with here that I find far more fascinating than most recent work!
MulletProof
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^ I’d like to say something mildly constructive but that design combined with the demeanor of the standard CCP customer makes for one explosive cocktail.
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maybe the customer likes it somewhat tragedic. or some of them want it to be like a tragicomedy.
the kengo kuma asics could be too industrialized, too handy, too obviously the tool of vision to be adaptable to their fanciful life. (in other words, too good to be a toy. which is normally a good thing though)
so, the asics might be a failed tragedy for them. unexploded climax. too happy an ending.
but I do think the kengo asics would go with ccp all ice grey outfit, for example.
all off-white version after some use could be better perhaps.
yomiuri
the kengo kuma asics could be too industrialized, too handy, too obviously the tool of vision to be adaptable to their fanciful life. (in other words, too good to be a toy. which is normally a good thing though)
so, the asics might be a failed tragedy for them. unexploded climax. too happy an ending.
but I do think the kengo asics would go with ccp all ice grey outfit, for example.
all off-white version after some use could be better perhaps.
yomiuri
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