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In 2003, New Yorker critic Judith Thurman visited a fashion show hosted by Austrian designer Carol Christian Poell. She was in for a surprise.
"The invitation was a salmon-colored factory time card stamped with an hour - seven in the evening - and an address that puzzled my driver: 'Alzaia Naviglio Grande Under Bridge Viale Cassala [in Milan].' The Naviglio Grande is the largest of the natural canals that flow through and beneath the industrial neighborhood where Poell has his studio, and which is the oldest part of the city. By the time we found the spot, the sun looked like a melon. A youthful crowd had assembled along the iron railing that protects the steep embankment. There was no evidence of a runway. There were no assistants in black, no security personnel talking into headsets, no publicist with a seating chart - indeed, no seating. The water, which was pale green and surprisingly clear, though flecked with wisps of straw, reflected a skyful of Tintoretto clouds. 'Dov'e la sfilata?' people were asking - where's the show?
"Then, to universal amazement, we beheld - drifting lazily down the canal - two red boots, a white shirt, a pair of dark trousers. They were followed by a boy dressed in a thick vest of what looked like russet-colored steel wool. He lay supine and motionless, his limbs outstretched, his perfectly calm face framed by the swirling mass of his hair. There were sixteen of his fellow-volunteers to come. Though the clothes were soggy and a little blurred, one read them - as the current turned the page - like the hand-colored images in some mildewed yet marvellous old book. Poell's idea was so poetic that the magical buoyancy of bodies and clothes (kept from sinking by an invisible flotation device) leapt the banks and infected the audience with a fit of joy. It didn't matter, I thought, what the collection looked like on a hanger or in a shop, because the show had performed a feat that is rare enough in theatre or art and practically unheard of in fashion. It surprised a group of people with an emotion they hadn't been expecting to feel. That is how a child experiences a sensual revelation, and how it is transformed into a memory of being happy. 'Everybody follows fashion,' Poell told me later. 'But change goes against the stream.'"
[Source: The New Yorker, July 28, 2003]
C.C.P. Special archives in the MAK
Fe-paints
CAROL CHRISTIAN POELL
In the context of the exhibition "S.O.S. To the rescue of the MAK collection "(2002) presented the MAK the work Carol Christian Poells for the first time in Austria.
Poell is considered as most important representatives of a subversiv
socialcritical mode art of the present and is internationally recognized as such.
The presentations of its collections (installations in the dog kennel, slaughter house etc..) excite again and again by their action-artnear character attention.
CAROL CHRISTIAN POELL - 1966 in Linz born - lives and works in Milan. After the training as gentleman and lady cutters in Vienna (Michelbeurn) he studied Fashion Design to the Domus Academy. In Milan it created its first gentleman collection with its partner, Sergio Simone, production and selling company C.C.P. S.r.L. 1995 was introduced.
From classical elements of traditional gentleman clothing it has three years later its Lady collection develops. The selling of its technically complex articles of clothing and Accessoires extends world-wide to more than 40 dealers.
The work selection for the MAK concentrates mainly on the "Trilogy OF Monotypologies" of the first three Fe-paints collections.
CAROL CHRISTIAN POELL fokusiert thereby on the different ranges of the body, the Unterkoerper (drop/winter 99-00: Trousers, skirts), the torso (jumping/buzzer 00: Shirts, jackets) and the whole body (drop/winter 00-01: Dresses, coats).
Trilogy OF Monotypologies.
Phallushose, arm-loose long coat from people hair,
F/W 00/01 Fe-paints
Reflecting over the role of the sexes Poell draws the shade sides of a woman existence: a woman, who feels internally tragically suffering, handicapped, kastriert in her possibilities and its social position in our society. Unusual materials come thereby to carrying such as Blood Dyed Leather (ox-blood-colored leather),
Trilogy OF Monotypologies.
Tape Make UP,
F/W 00/01
Fe-paints
Bodyplast (complete body plaster), plastic-talk Leather (formed leather) or human Hair (fabric from human hair).
By the admission of the work Carol Christian Poells into the collection of the MAK the work of an important contemporary mode designer is appreciated of Austrian origin. In S.O.S. presented selection forms the beginning of a C.C.P. Spezialarchives in the MAK. The structure of special archives dedicates itself to Design pioneers, i.e.. Innovatoren, which develop independent Design strategies and so that have model function. The Gesamteouvre Poells is listed, the collection sequentially with key works is supplemented.
Exhibition opinion:
S.O.S. To the rescue of the MAK collection, 2002
I completely missed these the first time - these are great!raijin said:Poell for the sneakerheads: