Carol Christian Poell - Designer

[faust]

No, I don't live in NYC. Yes, you're right, there is no patch or stitches on elbow, but the sleeves are not straight at all. It's like most of the good suits or blazers, when put on the hanger, you can see the curve line of the sleeves and you can tell exactly where the elbows are supposed to be. I am Asian and we tend to have shorter arms than Caucasians. So even the elbows space on this jacket falls a bit low for me, that's why I am bit concerned with the alteration.

I guess when we talk about the fine tailoring of designer's clothes for which they charge you prices higher than those Gap or Banana Republic, this jacket is a good example.

Hmm, if the elbow space is lower then it should be than it seems that detaching the sleeve where it connects with the body is the way to go. sounds scary , but a good tailor should do it. well, i guess your first step will be finding a reputable tailor and then getting a quote. good luck.

 

[baklanyc]

Yes, that sounds like the best choice, but I suspect any decent tailor here will probably charge maybe $80 or $100 for that kind of alteration, since it's not an easy job for this jacket and may even require several times of fitting. I am not sure if it's worth the money since I didn't pay way too much for this jacket. But still thanks a lot for your help.

Several suggestions:
1) If this jacket was indeed relatively inexpensive, altering it would be less of a monetary risk, as opposed to tampering with something you paid a lot for.

2) If you decide to alter it, the best way I can see is to do it from the shoulders. The shoulders are pretty straightforward in their construction - the sleeve joint and the cuff are not. The cuff is on the bias, it seems. I would worry about them putting it back on the same way it was originally, especially if they shorten the cuff to any degree. Shortening the sleeve from the joint of the main sleeve might reach into the elbow construction, so it doesn't seem recommendable that way either.

3) Have you considered that yoox may have photographed this wrong? Judging from the length of the 'bodice' in this jacket, plus the construction of the sleeve & cuff, it might be a foldover cuff, similar to a french cuff but without the buttons or cufflink closures. 2.5 inches sounds like the right length for a cuff. CCP has been experimenting with different cuff treatments over the years (I have a few shirts to that effect) and this might be a jacket variation. Try it out and see how it looks.

 

[faust]

Several suggestions:
1) If this jacket was indeed relatively inexpensive, altering it would be less of a monetary risk, as opposed to tampering with something you paid a lot for.

2) If you decide to alter it, the best way I can see is to do it from the shoulders. The shoulders are pretty straightforward in their construction - the sleeve joint and the cuff are not. The cuff is on the bias, it seems. I would worry about them putting it back on the same way it was originally, especially if they shorten the cuff to any degree. Shortening the sleeve from the joint of the main sleeve might reach into the elbow construction, so it doesn't seem recommendable that way either.

3) Have you considered that yoox may have photographed this wrong? Judging from the length of the 'bodice' in this jacket, plus the construction of the sleeve & cuff, it might be a foldover cuff, similar to a french cuff but without the buttons or cufflink closures. 2.5 inches sounds like the right length for a cuff. CCP has been experimenting with different cuff treatments over the years (I have a few shirts to that effect) and this might be a jacket variation. Try it out and see how it looks.

It looks like he already tried it on. I totally agree with point #3, i thought about the foldover cuff myself - the sleeves seem way too long
compared with the body - so it could either be foldover, or (knowing Carol ) maybe he meant the cuff to hide the wearer's wrist completely.

 

[haoshcn]

It looks like he already tried it on. I totally agree with point #3, i thought about the foldover cuff myself - the sleeves seem way too long
compared with the body - so it could either be foldover, or (knowing Carol ) maybe he meant the cuff to hide the wearer's wrist completely.

Yes, I have already got the jacket for a while. The sleeves aren't ridiculously longer than normal. It's all because I have relatively shorter arms. I compared the sleeves of this jacket with several other designers' jackets/coats (Junya, Balenciaga, Marni, and so on) I have, taking the portion already cut off on those jackets' sleeves into account, this one isn't that outrageously long. And I don't think you are supposed to fold the cuffs over since that will expose the lining. But I do agree with Faust, the cuffs look perfect when they are long enough to cover 1/3 or even half of your hands because of the slit in the cuffs, the slant at the bottom of the cuffs and also that the bottom of the cuffs is a little wider than the other end attached to the sleeves.

I have kept telling myself not to buy any shirt/jacket/coat with details on cuffs considering how many nightmares I have already had with the length of sleeves and all the trouble incurred and all the money spent on alteration, but I still couldn't resist the temptation and bought this jacket. It's simply ridiculous, isn't it?

 

[baklanyc]

Yes, I have already got the jacket for a while. The sleeves aren't ridiculously longer than normal. It's all because I have relatively shorter arms. I compared the sleeves of this jacket with several other designers' jackets/coats (Junya, Balenciaga, Marni, and so on) I have, taking the portion already cut off on those jackets' sleeves into account, this one isn't that outrageously long. And I don't think you are supposed to fold the cuffs over since that will expose the lining. But I do agree with Faust, the cuffs look perfect when they are long enough to cover 1/3 or even half of your hands because of the slit in the cuffs, the slant at the bottom of the cuffs and also that the bottom of the cuffs is a little wider than the other end attached to the sleeves.

I have kept telling myself not to buy any shirt/jacket/coat with details on cuffs considering how many nightmares I have already had with the length of sleeves and all the trouble incurred and all the money spent on alteration, but I still couldn't resist the temptation and bought this jacket. It's simply ridiculous, isn't it?

What size is it? Perhaps you should just resell it to one of the many CCP afficionados here.

 

[faust]

I have kept telling myself not to buy any shirt/jacket/coat with details on cuffs considering how many nightmares I have already had with the length of sleeves and all the trouble incurred and all the money spent on alteration, but I still couldn't resist the temptation and bought this jacket. It's simply ridiculous, isn't it?

Don't worry, i'm in the same boat. Do you know Margiela's classic leather jacket, with two chunky zippers in the front? I can't get it because there are zippers on the sleeves and i'm afraid to touch them.

 

[baklanyc]

Don't worry, i'm in the same boat. Do you know Margiela's classic leather jacket, with two chunky zippers in the front? I can't get it because there are zippers on the sleeves and i'm afraid to touch them.

Don't worry, faust - you may be short in stature, but very few can match your high style!

Misrty loves company: I have a similar dilemma with an APC jacket with working buttonholes. Despite APC cutting more for Japanese fits, this jacket has rather long arms, the problems of dealing with sizing that runs S-M-L instead of more precise numerical sizing. I bought a pair of pants to match that make it an informal suit, but now it requires that I shorten the sleeves so that it doesn't look like an ill-fitting suit, versus a casual blazer with longish sleeves.

 

[faust]

Don't worry, faust - you may be short in stature, but very few can match your high style!

Ooohhh, thanks for the compliment .

 

[runner]

Premiata White by Carol Christian Poell
S/S 05 model

 

[baklanyc]

/\/\ Those are CCP?? Interesting. Where are they available?

 

[runner]

those are from Premiata White designed by CCP.
available at Beams, United Arrows, etc.
he was involved in that line as sort of a guest designer.
also he did some of Premiata collections.

 

[haoshcn]

those are from Premiata White designed by CCP.
available at Beams, United Arrows, etc.
he was involved in that line as sort of a guest designer.
also he did some of Premiata collections.

Are you talking about the international gallery store of Beams in Tokyo? I know that store carries something like Cosmic Wonder and the Slab line or maybe the mainline of Rick Owens, just curious which kind of store it is and which barnds it carries.

 

[raijin]

You can go to the website of beams and find that info...
IGB has Carol Christian Poell (although not this season), Alexander Mcqueen.. and many other labels.

 

[raijin]

I thought I would share the fact that I have just attended "public freedom".
Its an interactive exhibition done by the MAK in Austria.
The building itself that the exhibition and the future CAT (contemporary art tower)..
Its this crazy former ammunition depot that was used in WW2 and its still in pretty bad and raw shape..
It seems like under 50 people have gone to see the exhibition in total, even though it is almost over.. I guess not many make the trip.
There was a collection of every document ever published in german, english, or otherwise on CCP. This included documents on the internet as well.
The "exhibition" involved walking into a dark room that was fitted with motion sensors.
When one moved forward, the projector started, filling the room with eerie noises and showing a full video of the collection shown in the prison. A door with prison bars was closed behind me when I first entered the exhibit, being told that I MUST complete it and descend from the other side. Upstairs, I saw two more motion triggered videos of CCP shows.. the entire mainstream downstream, as well as the escape collection.

This and the building itself is really a priceless experience.. go if you can.

I also learned a great deal more about the history of ccp, his ambitions, and his use of materials.

 

[jhaime]

woah, that sounds so good...

I really want to go now...

 

[droogist]

Thanks for the review raijin! I've been really curious to hear a firsthand account. Did they really say that the show has had less than 50 visitors?

 

[dhclam]

Glad that so many people like CCP, and glad that CCP still has defile in Milan. He doesn't normally make a defile for the sake of it. He's such an artist, and his stuffs are awfully expensive, I checked them all recently @ l'eclaireur in Paris. 850EU for a pair of kangaroo leather stitched-up lace-up, OMG! but they are extremely beautiful, no doubt about it.

 

[raijin]

Yes, I was suprised at that fact too..
but besides the place being in an odd location, Its also only shown in a very narrow time frame per week..otherwise the depot is closed because the staff have to be thier specially.

The info for the show is that its at the MAK Depot in Vienna suburbs..
Every thursday at 3-7 pm and a max of 5 people are admitted into it at one time.

Im thinking of picking up a pair of those kangaroo brogues on my trip!

However, I only have cash left for one more purchase

Ive been coveting some C diem boots as well lately..

 

[faust]

I thought I would share the fact that I have just attended "public freedom".
Its an interactive exhibition done by the MAK in Austria.
The building itself that the exhibition and the future CAT (contemporary art tower)..
Its this crazy former ammunition depot that was used in WW2 and its still in pretty bad and raw shape..
It seems like under 50 people have gone to see the exhibition in total, even though it is almost over.. I guess not many make the trip.
There was a collection of every document ever published in german, english, or otherwise on CCP. This included documents on the internet as well.
The "exhibition" involved walking into a dark room that was fitted with motion sensors.
When one moved forward, the projector started, filling the room with eerie noises and showing a full video of the collection shown in the prison. A door with prison bars was closed behind me when I first entered the exhibit, being told that I MUST complete it and descend from the other side. Upstairs, I saw two more motion triggered videos of CCP shows.. the entire mainstream downstream, as well as the escape collection.

This and the building itself is really a priceless experience.. go if you can.

I also learned a great deal more about the history of ccp, his ambitions, and his use of materials.

thanks raijin. did you copy any links down for our viewing pleasure?

 

[sonno]

Poell cord: tissue fabric

Few months back picked up a pair of black poell dress cord on ebay. Gorgeous, fit me on the loose side of perfect. Today I put them on to wear for the first time. I crouched down to tighten a shoe lace and the seat shredded. Seam ripped, and fabric, jagged rips all up the side of the seat, AND on the side of the hip. Destroyed. And these pants did not fit me snug. I have a fair pit of Poell and I've been very happy with the quality. I've got the equivalent pair of pants in pure cotton, worn many times and fabric is still quite pristine. I wonder if this ridiculous fragility is an aberration in the pair I got, or was this a foul up in the design, ie, CPP picked out a very nice cord fabric but didn't test its quality.