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Live Streaming... The F/W 2025.26 Fashion Shows
New York Fashion Week F/W 2025.26 Show Schedule
Carol Christian Poell - Designer
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runner
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A/W 07
a differential feature of this collection is its humanoid function.
it's exoskeletal, articulated.
maybe it started with the idea how heavy and stiff material like cordovan can be worn.
and they gave pieces joints, experimenting with object tanning.
the "object tanned" leather is about leather tanned after sewn completely.
first, rawhide gets soaking wet to be macerated and flatter, then it is sewn.
when it has dried, it doubles in thickness and threads get caught in leather, therefore the sewing gets dense and firm. at this point it has a peculiar baroque look about it.
in the end it gets tanned on torso, last, etc, from which some three-dimensional effect results.
they used kangaroo leather (famous for its strength and softness) as joints of object tanned heavy leather,
which they call "object tempered".
for example, the object tanned corvovan pieces have kangaroo joints in shoulder, elbow, knee, ankle, instep, and around waist, crotch, etc.
also the designs like "glove sleeve" and "back raglan" cooperate in adding some cyborg/Schiele-esque feel to the clothes.
back raglan is about a combination of set-in shoulders in the front and raglan sleeves in the back. it upheaves the shoulders nicely.
and a sleeve and an open-topped mitten with only thumb column closed coalesce into one glove sleeve.
it reminds me of a hero named Vega which was popular over here when I was a kid.
it's like his right hand/arm in some way.
but the look of his segmented shells and shadows (articulation) itself overlaps with the overall look of this collection.
so maybe this is about elegant armor more than ever.
amazon
a differential feature of this collection is its humanoid function.
it's exoskeletal, articulated.
maybe it started with the idea how heavy and stiff material like cordovan can be worn.
and they gave pieces joints, experimenting with object tanning.
the "object tanned" leather is about leather tanned after sewn completely.
first, rawhide gets soaking wet to be macerated and flatter, then it is sewn.
when it has dried, it doubles in thickness and threads get caught in leather, therefore the sewing gets dense and firm. at this point it has a peculiar baroque look about it.
in the end it gets tanned on torso, last, etc, from which some three-dimensional effect results.
they used kangaroo leather (famous for its strength and softness) as joints of object tanned heavy leather,
which they call "object tempered".
for example, the object tanned corvovan pieces have kangaroo joints in shoulder, elbow, knee, ankle, instep, and around waist, crotch, etc.
also the designs like "glove sleeve" and "back raglan" cooperate in adding some cyborg/Schiele-esque feel to the clothes.
back raglan is about a combination of set-in shoulders in the front and raglan sleeves in the back. it upheaves the shoulders nicely.
and a sleeve and an open-topped mitten with only thumb column closed coalesce into one glove sleeve.
it reminds me of a hero named Vega which was popular over here when I was a kid.
it's like his right hand/arm in some way.
but the look of his segmented shells and shadows (articulation) itself overlaps with the overall look of this collection.
so maybe this is about elegant armor more than ever.
amazon
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there is lots of leather stuff object tanned or/and object tempered.
on the whole, heavy leather gets object tempered
while medium and light leather is only object tanned, which means crusts and joints are made of the same leather.
for instance, o-tempered joint elbow/waist bomber jacket with back raglan and glove sleeves,
o-tanned trousers, gloves, etc.
the highlight could be an o-tempered retractable (or folding) hooded short coat.
the hood goes like a convertible top, but when it is pulled down completely, it looks like some dark organism, say, myriapod.
then, those articulatory designs are extended and applied to the fabric classics like blazers, shirts...
twist thing was laid aside,
and overlocking was slashed largely this time, but it's scantily inherited by knee-length denim "box trousers" etc.
there is a solid knitwear collection included.
as for silver, they did folding ruler necklace, biro necklace, and silver yarn shoelace neckpiece.
the goodyear cordovan boots/shoes in the usual styles basically come in three blacks of subtle difference, black, greyish black, and greenish black. you can tell it by the dye on the shoelace anyway since it's object-dyed.
and they come with three types of soles: the normal double-layered, the single-layered made of extremely thick and heavy bull leather, and the tank sole.
and some of the styles/soles have the uppers of either black cordovan reverse which looks sort of rugged in comparison with cordovan normally used,
or cordovan (normal) of white/grey/black shades like dark clouds.
the other styles include:
four-front-buckled cap toe boots
o-tanned ones with flextible ankles
o-tempered ones with kangaroo flexible ankles and insteps
my faves were a blazer and trousers in the soft and fluffy fabric like dense and thick spiderweb,
anything in heavy paper cotton, especially "box trousers" in that fabric,
glove sleeve turtleneck sweater,
back raglan joint elbow jacket knitted out of extremely thick, hard and heavy gunmetal yarn,
joint crotch/knee cotton trousers,
and the object tempered boots.
the boots were nice and eerie, radiating quiet dignity. honestly the first pair from ccp that really possessed me.
on the whole, heavy leather gets object tempered
while medium and light leather is only object tanned, which means crusts and joints are made of the same leather.
for instance, o-tempered joint elbow/waist bomber jacket with back raglan and glove sleeves,
o-tanned trousers, gloves, etc.
the highlight could be an o-tempered retractable (or folding) hooded short coat.
the hood goes like a convertible top, but when it is pulled down completely, it looks like some dark organism, say, myriapod.
then, those articulatory designs are extended and applied to the fabric classics like blazers, shirts...
twist thing was laid aside,
and overlocking was slashed largely this time, but it's scantily inherited by knee-length denim "box trousers" etc.
there is a solid knitwear collection included.
as for silver, they did folding ruler necklace, biro necklace, and silver yarn shoelace neckpiece.
the goodyear cordovan boots/shoes in the usual styles basically come in three blacks of subtle difference, black, greyish black, and greenish black. you can tell it by the dye on the shoelace anyway since it's object-dyed.
and they come with three types of soles: the normal double-layered, the single-layered made of extremely thick and heavy bull leather, and the tank sole.
and some of the styles/soles have the uppers of either black cordovan reverse which looks sort of rugged in comparison with cordovan normally used,
or cordovan (normal) of white/grey/black shades like dark clouds.
the other styles include:
four-front-buckled cap toe boots
o-tanned ones with flextible ankles
o-tempered ones with kangaroo flexible ankles and insteps
my faves were a blazer and trousers in the soft and fluffy fabric like dense and thick spiderweb,
anything in heavy paper cotton, especially "box trousers" in that fabric,
glove sleeve turtleneck sweater,
back raglan joint elbow jacket knitted out of extremely thick, hard and heavy gunmetal yarn,
joint crotch/knee cotton trousers,
and the object tempered boots.
the boots were nice and eerie, radiating quiet dignity. honestly the first pair from ccp that really possessed me.
Trendy Andy
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Thanks for sharing with all of us Runner!
So Casius, your from Huntington Beach huh? Right on! I'm from the LA area as well. I haven't been on TFS for awhile now. Just trying to keep up with the rest of you guys at the moment.
=)
So Casius, your from Huntington Beach huh? Right on! I'm from the LA area as well. I haven't been on TFS for awhile now. Just trying to keep up with the rest of you guys at the moment.
=)
Trendy Andy
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Hey Albert,
Anything from Cycle-Two from Julius or CCP that you carry that can fit someone who wears Dior Homme size 52 and/or waist size 34 US? I saw one of the CCP Overlock pants that would barely fit me but it was sold out lot hotcakes.
I check your site periodically but it seems like other people have faster reflexes cashing out on your inventory before I even get my grubby little fingers on it. lol~!
Anything from Cycle-Two from Julius or CCP that you carry that can fit someone who wears Dior Homme size 52 and/or waist size 34 US? I saw one of the CCP Overlock pants that would barely fit me but it was sold out lot hotcakes.
I check your site periodically but it seems like other people have faster reflexes cashing out on your inventory before I even get my grubby little fingers on it. lol~!
...is that why it must have 'joints'...?
runner
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you're all welcome
softgrey, yes it's hard.
but I think they wanted heavy leather to be hard in the first place.
they are the ones who made even calf tanned through the normal process stone-hard all the way.
maybe they can soften the object-tanned leather to some extent if they want.
actually some of the object-tanned items are not particularly hard, and the joints used there are not kangaroo but just the same leather. so they could be like action pleats rather than joints there.
I believe the leather piece in the pic Casius posted is rawhide which has dried up completely and frozen hard, although the blog doesn't say nothing about what it is.
I guess its baroque look and natural hardness hit their fancy?
some might think the joint thing is out of step with a tailoring spirit such as carol has been carying, especially because it is used in some of the fabric blazers too. but it might be his departure from the paranoic obsession. I don't know though.
softgrey, yes it's hard.
but I think they wanted heavy leather to be hard in the first place.
they are the ones who made even calf tanned through the normal process stone-hard all the way.
maybe they can soften the object-tanned leather to some extent if they want.
actually some of the object-tanned items are not particularly hard, and the joints used there are not kangaroo but just the same leather. so they could be like action pleats rather than joints there.
I believe the leather piece in the pic Casius posted is rawhide which has dried up completely and frozen hard, although the blog doesn't say nothing about what it is.
I guess its baroque look and natural hardness hit their fancy?
some might think the joint thing is out of step with a tailoring spirit such as carol has been carying, especially because it is used in some of the fabric blazers too. but it might be his departure from the paranoic obsession. I don't know though.
Yea, I'm really interested to see the 'joints' on the jackets and blazers, it sounds very unique.
Also very interested in the knit wear, I've only seen a few of the old knit wear pieces, but from what I've seen, it seems he usually puts his focus elsewhere so it will be cool if there are more knit pieces this season.
Also very interested in the knit wear, I've only seen a few of the old knit wear pieces, but from what I've seen, it seems he usually puts his focus elsewhere so it will be cool if there are more knit pieces this season.
softgrey
flaunt the imperfection
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thanks runner...i thought it must be hard...
it does seem to be something of a departure...which i think is good sometimes...it's good to expand the vocabulary of design...
vega looks like an ant or praying mantis!...
...
the fingerless mitten sounds very cool...
i think it is really too bad that these guys (ccp, luc, carpe diem, etc)are not more interested in editorial coverage...
cause if ever there were some great pieces to do some cool pictures with...
these would be them...
it's almost a crime to deny us that...
...
...
it does seem to be something of a departure...which i think is good sometimes...it's good to expand the vocabulary of design...
vega looks like an ant or praying mantis!...
...the fingerless mitten sounds very cool...
i think it is really too bad that these guys (ccp, luc, carpe diem, etc)are not more interested in editorial coverage...
cause if ever there were some great pieces to do some cool pictures with...
these would be them...
it's almost a crime to deny us that...
......
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Softgrey- While I don't really think they should start doing editorials (magazines, runway shows, etc.), I would love to see the aforementioned designers update a website. Carol's website has now been the same for many months and it would be cool to get a lookbook or some photos just to appease the consumer.
But I am also highly impatient.
But I am also highly impatient.
Hey Andy! I definitely do get items that fit those sizes every so often (just like every other brand I carry... it's a grab bag of sorts). You'll have a slight bit more of a problem with Julius. Only some of the size 3 (their largest size) items will fit you but the pants/jeans in size 3 and usually knit tops/blazers will fit you (again in size 3). I have a Julius 2 button unstructured blazer that should be right down your alley but definitely check the measurements provided on the page to be sure.
Nairb, thanks for the kind words mate! I'll be back in Boston on July 12th for about a week. We should meet up! (oh and a pre-congratulations on the ring B))
Runner, thanks for all that lovely info as well. I talked with the guys (and gals) at L'Eclaireur Rue Herold last week and oddly enough there was no mention of all these things. Haha, I wonder if they're just used to it! A quirky thing though, Carol sent them the lookbook for orders but requested that they be returned to him. Thus... no way for regular folks like us to see what is coming essentially until it's almost on the racks. Gah.
The only other item I am aware of coming out is a belt with an off-center (placed above the rest of the belt) buckle which should be nifty.
These jointed pieces are something I'm really quite excited to see although the fingerless mittens have been done before by Altieri for LMaltieri it will be interesting to see Carol's take on them. His gloves have almost always been interesting (the fur lined blue overlocked ones with cut off fingertips... awesome! And the "alien" kangaroo ones from last a/w.).
Carol is one of those designers that makes me truly wish I had an infinite amount of money. Alas, this season I'll probably be more of a spectator/appreciator than an owner!
runner
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