Celine Cruise 2026 Paris

[MulletProof]

I want to hammer on this again cause it's even worse in pictures..

vogue.com

like susse said.. this is not Hedi/Phoebe.. it's sooo Menichetti/Michael Kors' Celine, aka. the real, decades-long Celine..

 

[tricotineacetat]

But do we need to shop at Celine in 2025 for the Phoebe’s look when Phoebe Philo (the brand) exists?

But back to the collection, the styling is wild. I always hate the pile-everything-on-top-of-each-other trick. It’s not cool, it’s just messy and a bit show off. But I will give Michael more grace because he has (2) bigs shoes to fill. Hopefully he will find his voice too because this Celine is a bit confusing.

Phoebe’s fans will passionately disagree with me on that one but I think Rider would be smart to keep the tailoring and outerwear more in line with Hedi’s since the cut is flawless, better than Phoebe’s since you get the authenticity of menswear which is superior in fabrication and finish than a blazer made in a womenswear factory.

Agreed with the styling, the amount of small accessories in one look gives me a headache. Since Rider was essential in the making of Phoebe’s Celine, I would be happy if he would return at some point to a collection as 'essential' as Phoebe’s debut collection for Celine (which i think is still the most accomplished one, in hindsight).

 

[oioioi]

I think Rider would be smart to keep the tailoring and outerwear more in line with Hedi’s since the cut is flawless, better than Phoebe’s since you get the authenticity of menswear which is superior in fabrication and finish than a blazer made in a womenswear factory.

Phoebe Celine era blazers/sartorial based pieces were done by Caruso the Italian menswear tailoring factory that produces tailoring for Ghesquiere's LV women's sartorial blazers, Stefano Pilati YSL, Brioni as well as others. Maybe Hedi changed suppliers in his era?
Perhaps it's more about preference of silhouette? Hedi's was more classic archetypal bases (tuxedos, rock attitude blazers but with shorter sleeves and tight armholes, or prince de galles easy blazers a bit 70's cut more to wear with a high waisted jean for a paris mum in her 30's to maybe take her daughter to school).
Phoebe's were probably more challenging for a wider general audience, often having wider shoulders with a more nipped in waist slightly redingote profile for more of a woman who might follow fashion closer.
Just different types of women that appreciate both - Different strokes for different folks!

 

[yslforever]

I want to hammer on this again cause it's even worse in pictures..
View attachment 1393099
vogue.com

like susse said.. this is not Hedi/Phoebe.. it's sooo Menichetti/Michael Kors' Celine, aka. the real, decades-long Celine..

Can’t believe they actually decided to open with that, with the displaced shoulder pad and the blazer completely strained on a side. Did they really think it is a look, even an opening look ?
As a customer I am used to an OCD precision in the tailoring and presentation at Celine, alongside with a very strict POV, and I don’t know what I expected, I was ready for something more nomadic and nonchalant but still immaculate, I just can’t accept the sloppiness.
Immaculate it is not, and this is so shocking to me.

 

[Monsieur Cristobal]

Although I don't think the collection is bad, at this point corporate fashion is becoming a big potpourri of things that you've seen somewhere else.

Beyond the obvious and legitimate phoebephiloisms and slimanisms, we have seen some things from here at S. Burton's Givenchy and at J. Anderson's Dior.
I don't know if it is LVMH pushing some "categories" or "ideas" and the designers must obey. There is a déjà-vu feeling.

The worst are the bags. Almost every single one reminds you of an iconic bag from another brand.

 

[MulletProof]

Can’t believe they actually decided to open with that, with the displaced shoulder pad and the blazer completely strained on a side. Did they really think it is a look, even an opening look ?
As a customer I am used to an OCD precision in the tailoring and presentation at Celine, alongside with a very strict POV, and I don’t know what I expected, I was ready for something more nomadic and nonchalant but still immaculate, I just can’t accept the sloppiness.
Immaculate it is not, and this is so shocking to me.

that is baffling to me as well, I actually wouldn't mind if that was a poorly-made, filler piece lost somewhere in the collection, at this point and given the state of fashion, we're all used to turning a blind eye on these things and have the mindset of a garbage man, just sorting through junk until you see something with minimal potential... but it's wild to me that he really looked at it, pushed it to the front of the line and thought with full conviction 'this beautiful creation will be our opening look'.. I want to think it's sloppiness, which is better than being fully aware of what you're looking at and still saying yes, but either way, I think it says a lot on where he's at as a fashion designer.

also lol at being in Paris with your legs crossed and this is all people can see.. I'd die :

vogue.com

 

[unknown179]

declanchan instagram

 

[fenty]

L O L

 

[HigthaVandah]

The livestream is still running.

 

[j02215]

I don’t understand the strategy of investing millions and years to make Celine into a legitimate and desirable lifestyle brand, just then to back paddle into an over-saturated phoebe-adjacent niche market (which then ended up looking like a middle-of-the-road European Michael Kors).

 

[tourbillions]

The livestream is still running.

lol i noticed this too

 

[Blaiseybabey]

Just watching it. I wasn't even aware that the debut was happening today until a YT suggestion.
I see Phoebe and Hedi mix, just like somebody here has already mentioned. I don't know though what about the new designer is actually. Rider may be good, maybe there's some idea that will be revealed over time but it's IMHO the debut is too dictated by what's been and not what it could be.

Maybe it's too harsh but that would be a good collection done by the team itself. With a new designer, I expected a shift. Just like what Hedi did (I know how people hated his debut) - it was a change. Here, I see a hint that it might not be too ambitious.

 

[Kennnnn]

This is a lot. I don't dislike it, it's certainly more intriguing to me then Hedi's debut for Celine. There's a lot of Phoebe here, for sure, but above all, it has the spirit of Ralph. He is playing with a lot of Americana - for example, the US postal satchel, nautical stripe polo, narrow ribbon loafers (almost like the Bass weejuns), prep school necktie, boxing boots (I think the "Celine Paris" label is probably detachable, to wear on different occasions), surfer leggings, the bike messenger's fabric covered chain strapped around the waist, and of course that white tshirt gown that is very CZ Guest. It reminds me of when Raf took on Calvin and played with all the stereotypically American tropes.

It's interesting to me how he's tried to meld it with the bourgeois Parisian style, but i don't feel that it's particularly successful here. Perhaps many of his ideas got lost in the styling, which i think is too busy, too many layers (almost Japanese in a way - quite a lot of this looks like outfits in magazines like Popeye) for Celine.

But I am interested to see how he will evolve. I was a customer of Phoebe's Celine, and this might make me revisit the store, because I do like some of the coats, and the updated luggage tote.

 

[Kennnnn]

Phoebe Celine era blazers/sartorial based pieces were done by Caruso the Italian menswear tailoring factory that produces tailoring for Ghesquiere's LV women's sartorial blazers, Stefano Pilati YSL, Brioni as well as others. Maybe Hedi changed suppliers in his era?
Perhaps it's more about preference of silhouette? Hedi's was more classic archetypal bases (tuxedos, rock attitude blazers but with shorter sleeves and tight armholes, or prince de galles easy blazers a bit 70's cut more to wear with a high waisted jean for a paris mum in her 30's to maybe take her daughter to school).
Phoebe's were probably more challenging for a wider general audience, often having wider shoulders with a more nipped in waist slightly redingote profile for more of a woman who might follow fashion closer.
Just different types of women that appreciate both - Different strokes for different folks!

Thank you, I did not know this - I really loved how Phoebe's tailoring made me feel, because it was always a mix of something structured and something fluid in each piece.

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[Living Proof]

Apparently Michael Rider charmed the slip off Anna Wintour back stage, sorry to some of you but this won’t be a SDS case.

Also we have to stop wanting everyone to operate the same way, he’s not a ‘pull everything from underneath on day one’ type of table-shaker, and that’s okay, Blazy was the same way. I’m giving him a few seasons to ease his vision (if there is one) into it.

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[Grets]

They should have just given Hedi what he wanted

 

[reese06]

I really like it overall.

It’s not without some faults. Mostly with how sloppy some of the styling is. Where I find Hedi has an attention to detail that’s almost an obsession, there’s always a lack of design that I find almost inexcusable. He is great curator and stylist.

That attention to detail is missing here but the design, silhouette and ideas are there. They need to let some of the looks breathe especially when he is using bold colors, prints, color blocking etc.

Look 20 - The black column gown, doesn’t neee a straw hat and a small leather goods pouch. Those goods are nothing special and the dress can live on its own. This is one of many looks that’s overcrowded.

I’m interested in seeing where this goes. I think a question is if a house has to show a major shift everytime there is a new cd. Celine is not and was not in need of an overhaul. He is smart to not try to curate the same coolness that hedi brings