Celine S/S 2020 Paris

[perfect blue]

As much as I get bored by his collections sometimes, I still want to buy the pieces. What is this sorcery

 

[entten]

they are not ugly. of course its wearable, good qlty and blablabla

i dont even think he is lazy. yes its an lazy collection,but i think that it was really hard work for him to made this
i am just convinced that his mind is so so so damn limited and i hate that. its only one silhouette repeated 30 times -.-

 

[Lola701]

Why buy this over Saint Laurent?

Because Anthony sell a piece...Hedi sell a look.
The Zara approach in Hedi’s work is true in the sense that when you go to the boutique, you want to buy a whole outfit. It’s the look and the attitude you had in your mind that convince you...

You can buy those pieces anywhere else but the only place you’ll find a sequined Breton sweater, a jupe culotte, a white pair of jeans, a trench coat, a peacoat...All year long is Celine by Slimane...


And you know, cult designer have this thing about them...You don’t say « i’m wearing Anthony ». You’ll surely say « i’m Wearing Hedi »

 

[dior_couture1245]

I get that everyone is put off by this, but I think you have to see it on a bit more of a macro scale.

Like I said, this is the only show this season that has a pulse for me, and it’s probably safe for me to say, too, that last season, Céline is the only show I remember.

I think Cathy Horyn summed it up so perfectly in her review of the Fall collection:

A lot of the blazers, coats, and dresses would look great on women of various body types and ages. Another thing is that it might be sane — and good business — for a luxury brand nowadays to put some distance between itself and the mass of brands on the scene. Many of them use the same approach to design — that is, they manipulate familiar forms. Let’s take a classic wool car coat and hyperextend the collar or add weird flaps to the pockets. Let’s grab a puffed sleeve from a 17th-century Dutch painting or a bit of snowflake lace from an Italian portrait, and rework them as a “modern” shirt — with a fat modern price tag to boot.

Slimane, by contrast, simply offered the luxe car coat, in camel with dark buttons. And he literally finished up with an exclamation point: a sleek black evening trouser suit with a sparkly black shell. Whatever the style, his approach is straightforward, without hidden meanings or dark references to politics, and in today’s world that can seem a virtue.

This is not to suggest that it’s honest or pure. Those skirts and print dresses are not too far from styles shown in Celine ads in the ’70s, though the fabrics and proportions have been updated. There is a calculation here, not just of brand history but of business and the role Celine will play in the Paris luxury universe. There’s a significantly underdeveloped space between Chloé and Hermès — and an opportunity, as the chiefs at LVMH know, to move into rival Hermès’ conservative turf, minus the horses and saddles.

She is so right about the design formula of almost all other catwalk brands today. And so, by doing the compete opposite, Hedi’s Céline stands alone - giving women something that they will look nice in. They won’t look silly in these clothes.

I am no blind Hedi devotee...I generally didn’t care of anything he did at Saint Laurent...it was too petulant, costumey and somehow never clicked with the brand heritage for me. Here at Céline though, this BCBG look is much prettier and maybe, specifically at this moment, it feels to me like the only look that matters in the industry now. It makes everyone else look a bit clueless.

While everyone else is adding flaps and bangles and dangling straps and flounces and quirky shoes and bags and sunglasses...Hedi just gives you the real deal. In fact, in Cathy’s review of this season’s Lanvin show, she says as much...writing that all these superfluous elements added to the clothes are starting to “get on [her] nerves.” Mine, too.

In many ways, it’s like what Tom did for Gucci in the 90’s....so many of those collections were just clothes. Good clothes with timeless appeal. Absolutely nothing tricky or gimmicky or extra about them. No clever twist. Just the right fabric, the right color and the right cut. A car coat, an embellished pair of jeans, a T-shirt, a pencil skirt, a shoulder bag, a camisole, a sparkly little dress. That’s it. And how good it all looked!

 

[Les_Sucettes]

And yes, @Les_Sucettes , Vanessa should be upset...More than that, Jean Touitou too. Knowing that he is not really a fan of Hedi, I can only imagine how he felt watching this lol!

Oooh I didn't knew that. Touitou must be livid. It is unfair for Vanessa, she had a good thing going. But her collections were always appraised as a sort of glam subsection of A.P.C , must be extremely demoralising to see this now treated as the second coming.

 

[Lola701]

In many ways, it’s like what Tom did for Gucci in the 90’s....so many of those collections were just clothes. Good clothes with timeless appeal. Absolutely nothing tricky or gimmicky or extra about them. No clever twist. Just the right fabric, the right color and the right cut. A car coat, an embellished pair of jeans, a T-shirt, a pencil skirt, a shoulder bag, a camisole, a sparkly little dress. That’s it. And how good it all looked!

Yes maybe but you need to add a context to Tom’s Gucci.
In the 90’s, there was still a huge difference between what people looked like in the streets and what was presented on the runway...
Tom’s Gucci was mostly a « fashion look »...An elevated version of real clothes and not real clothes on the runway...That’s the twist.
At that time, you could have eventually been inspired by that look but it was impossible to recreate that without buying the real thing. He cut his T-shirt extremely short for example...

I still remember how men used to dress before 2007 or 2008....Before Hedi’s aesthetic touched the mass. Prior to that, you saw skinny silhouettes on young rich and edgy Asians, fashion people, some cool musicians...
It was just clothes but thanks to that context, Dior Homme was literally the only place where you could have found those pieces.

Hedi today is not helped anymore by that context of being the only one....If it make sense.

 

[TheoG]

From a business sense, brilliant. Hedi knows exactly what he's doing. But from critical point of view. There's really not much here. Its nice to look at and I'm sure its of the highest quality but its hallow. I don't see what he's going that different from Chiuri at Dior and Vaccarello at SL.

 

[dfl-001]

At first glance it looks like vintage Celine. Understated, not over the top in the least.
The whole collection could have been pulled from one of my vintage magazines ca 1976.
This looks like clothing for super-rich people who don't want to look super-rich.
A bit underwhelming, why even have a show for this?

 

[Erzébeth II]

Vaccarello and Slimane have been heavily pushing 00s shapes like the micro hipster shorts and bootcut jeans. Does anyone feel it was not that long ago and thrift stores literally could have the first iterations in their racks, courtesy of suburban mothers? On the models, they do look fine but for me to wear, i’d worry about uncomfortable memories of teenage years. I’d happily accept a free piece. But my favourite cut remains straight leg.

 

[YohjiAddict]

If I were a woman I wouldn't say no to any of the floral dresses, they are pretty and classic, but all that blue (BLUE!) denim was just awful to me as a person who wears nothing but black denim. As a short person I pray that this flared trouser revival is nothing but a fad, they make you looks so stumpy. All in all he's still in Pheobe's shadow, didn't she already do all this banal 70's bourgie vibe at Chloé?

His first collection was so much better, it had a certain bad *** vibe and the mini dresses were my guilty pleasure that season. I also had a huge laugh seeing just how puritane american critics were in regards to that show: Oh merciful God, spare us from this man wanting to dress women as cheap harlots! This new incarnation of Celine was tailored made for the type of women who spends her morning reading society magazines looking for her name and by evening goes out to some gala waiting to have her picture taken for a society magazine.

I'm in serious need of five armed sweaters and PVC oversized hoods from Rei to wash-off this exercise on ennui.

 

[Not Plain Jane]

looks like a fall chloe collection

 

[MissMagAddict]

Fashion abstracted.

 

[Erzébeth II]

I also had a huge laugh seeing just how puritane american critics were in regards to that show: Oh merciful God, spare us from this man wanting to dress women as cheap harlots!

Some critics went as far as berating him for infantilizing women and I bet Hedi saw that and decided to do more conservative and normal clothes.

 

[YohjiAddict]

Some critics went as far as berating him for infantilizing women and I bet Hedi saw that and decided to do more conservative and normal clothes.

It was so absurd, I seriously wondered whether they were touched in the head or something. I haven't followed much fashion "journalism" after that debacle. They acted exactly like the caricature of the earliest journalist, sensationalistic dimwits catering to bourgeois morals to move papers. You could say he had it coming for the way he's treated journalists before but that doesn't mean they should stoop to his level of pettiness

 

[Erzébeth II]

It was so absurd

I've followed Hedi since his Dior Homme days and I can say that I personally found the party dresses in that collection cute. I didn't care for the feminist uproar.

 

[popstylist]

I think the key words to describe this collection are ‘parisienne chic’ and ‘effortless’. If you do not understand these words very well, what these words actually mean. I do not think you will understand this Celine’s look.

 

[Melancholybaby]

I think the key words to describe this collection are ‘parisienne chic’ and ‘effortless’. If you do not understand these words very well, what these words actually mean. I do not think you will understand this Celine’s look.

I'd like to think the posters here, with their in-depth knowledge and understanding of fashion history and business, would be able to understand such cliché and commonplace terms. What has Emmanuelle Alt been campaigning for these past 20 years after all?

 

[liberty33r1b]

Looks exactly like his previous collection, what‘s the point

 

[Melancholybaby]

This video reads more like an advertorial than anything else but Loïc is doing a better job at selling these clothes than the runway photos and the official video.



That part about the work that went into this patchwork denim skirt was really funny...yeah, it could have taken 10 nuns in a Tibetan monastery 10,000 hours to make and it'd still be a car crash.

 

[Lola701]

This video reads more like an advertorial than anything else but Loïc is doing a better job at selling these clothes than the runway photos and the official video.



That part about the work that went into this patchwork denim skirt was really funny...yeah, it could have taken 10 nuns in a Tibetan monastery 10,000 hours to make and it'd still be a car crash.

Loic Prigent has his favorites and Hedi has been a favorite of him for a long long time. I remember he did something to defend the punk collection he did for YSL...

I’m surprised that given his access to Hedi or some other designers at LVMH, he hasn’t done a real proper documentary about one of them.

It would be interesting to follow the creative process of Hedi or Nicolas today.

But yes, he is really good at selling those clothes.