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Celine S/S 2021 Monaco

Yesterday, before the show, I was at the Celine store. At one point, I was talking fashion with the SA and we ended up I talking about the then-upcoming SS2021. When I mentioned to him that the fact that it was shot at Monaco slightly picked my interest, he said to me that the way I was dressed was slightly in the spirit of the collection...(I wore flats shoes)

Do I need to say that I felt insulted when hours later I discovered the collection!

What a waste of beautiful Monte-Carlo! I really don’t care about the collection. The strategy is so obvious that even Stevie Wonder could see it.
I find the opportunistic switch of Hedi from Rock&Roll to Hip-Hop slightly embarrassing but the video was kinda fun.

There’s really nothing about this collection that can make it Interesting but I’m sure Lisa will look great in it.
 
I feel so bad, because I actually like this. It is nothing new, exciting, groundbreaking and so on, but it is what Hedi does best - boring clothes, but with the best fit and quality stitching in the industry.

Do I feel excited or interested, challenged intellectually? No, I am yawning.
But do I want to actually get some of these pieces and wear around without caring if I look ridiculous and thinking too much how to style it? Absolutely.

I, honestly, would rather buy this than something that is easily identified such as Raf's stuff. These are tedious classics without much identity, but, in fact, wearing these in 10+ year very-very-very little people would be able to tell if that would be stuff from 10 years ago. With other designers I can say immediately stuff like "That's 2-year-old Raf collection!" and is it a bad thing? No, if you love the piece. But for me, and only personally for me, I enjoy to be either "unidentifiable" or cutting edge with the latest fashion piece, which I would usually give away or sell later.

When I went to Celine in Paris a year ago and got some stuff it was clear the quality is absolutely amazing. I mean it is Hermes/Chanel/Loewe level of amazing with Hedi.
 
^^
I feel like at those prices, good quality is the least we can expect.
I must admit that I’m more attracted to his menswear than his womenswear.

I feel like his menswear can always somehow look fresh and modern on a woman whereas his womenswear has a constant throwback quality.
 
This could MAYBE pass as Vanessa Bruno, but not even that. It just looks like some random brand in the contemporary section of any department store. I feel like it's a new low for Hedi. Once the show setting and edgy models are gone, there really is nothing worth presenting. Yes, yes - the tailoring and making is nice, but that is something that matters more in the store.
 
I find the opportunistic switch of Hedi from Rock&Roll to Hip-Hop slightly embarrassing but the video was kinda fun.

There’s really nothing about this collection that can make it Interesting...

I don’t see hiphop at all. The men’s show may have included elements of hiphop with the trap soundtrack and more Black guys— but it was more skateculture of the 90s; which was more multicultural, especially in LA than people may think, or remember.

This is absolutely 90s downtown preppie girl: The baseball cap with everything, Chelsea boots, oversized bomber… replace the pleated knee-length dress with a grunge babydoll and it’s a xerox copy of how girls dressed in my junior high school circa early-90s. And it’s how the same type of girl dresses now in 2020. My niece dresses like this. It’s a very pedestrian look, and as you've said-- nothing about this collection that can make it Interesting, frankly.

He just went from uptown preppie circa-1983 of his debut to midtown preppie girl circa-1993.
 
I don’t see hiphop at all. The men’s show may have included elements of hiphop with the trap soundtrack and more Black guys— but it was more skateculture of the 90s; which was more multicultural, especially in LA than people may think, or remember.

This is absolutely 90s downtown preppie girl: The baseball cap with everything, Chelsea boots, oversized bomber… replace the pleated knee-length dress with a grunge babydoll and it’s a xerox copy of how girls dressed in my junior high school circa early-90s. And it’s how the same type of girl dresses now in 2020. My niece dresses like this. It’s a very pedestrian look, and as you've said-- nothing about this collection that can make it Interesting, frankly.

He just went from uptown preppie circa-1983 of his debut to midtown preppie girl circa-1993.
Yes, in style, it's still Hedi's same obsessions but for me the choice of music is very important considering how music is essential to Hedi's work. By switching his music, he speaks to another audience that listen K-pop and Hip-Hop (trap, rap...etc). Rock is not the most influential music genre anymore and so, they have to connect culturally to that audience they are chasing. Hedi is clever and I think that pragmatism is a quality needed for any good designer and even more when you are working for those big conglomerates.

My issue with Hedi will always be the kind of proposition he gives for that issue. I get that people likes to buy from luxury brands, expensive versions of their everyday clothes. After all, part of the success of Hedi at YSL or DH was those permanent collections of classic RTW items. That's not what I want to see as a fashion proposition.

it’s so different from what he did at Celine before , was he told to change the style ? it seems to be for a much younger customer now, it reminded me of Gucci but without the fantasy or charm.
He is just the pragmatic designer he is supposed to be at those high sphere of fashion. Asia is the first and most secure luxury market in the world now. Millennials are driving the sales of those brands and particularly in RTW. There's a crisis right now and obviously, brands needs that little short term boost that will impact the annual financial results for next year. Considering how late was Hedi's announced stratospheric commercial success of buzz in the beginning and how sales are starting to be more promising, this collection feels "relevant".
So, here is Hedi's proposition. Mind you, T-shirts, Jeans, sweaters, hoodies and caps are all entry-priced level items in RTW. It's easy to produce, easy to sell and with the obvious interest that the association with Lisa generates, I'm sure it will sell well.
 
To paraphrase Ms Roitfeld's comment on his debut collection
“This w̶o̶m̶a̶n̶ girl doesn’t have enough money to shop at H̶e̶r̶m̶è̶s̶ CHANEL, so she goes to Celine. She is not very nice to her m̶a̶i̶d̶ uber driver.”

I have purchased RTW pieces from Hedi every season thus far but I'm not sure if I will for SS21 (maybe 1-2 chanel look-a-like pieces, because frankly, I can't afford Chanel...well, at least not every season with the new prices Virginie's charging :ninja:)
 
^^^ LOL

He is just the pragmatic designer he is supposed to be at those high sphere of fashion. Asia is the first and most secure luxury market in the world now. Millennials are driving the sales of those brands and particularly in RTW. There's a crisis right now and obviously, brands needs that little short term boost that will impact the annual financial results for next year. Considering how late was Hedi's announced stratospheric commercial success of buzz in the beginning and how sales are starting to be more promising, this collection feels "relevant".
So, here is Hedi's proposition. Mind you, T-shirts, Jeans, sweaters, hoodies and caps are all entry-priced level items in RTW. It's easy to produce, easy to sell and with the obvious interest that the association with Lisa generates, I'm sure it will sell well.

Absolutely very pragmatic if I’m feeling kind— but in all frankness, it’s abysmally cynical and stunningly marketing-by-numbers (even more so than Chanel/Dior/Burberry), like even Hedi gave up and just pulling together utilitarian pieces that are popular with teen girls (while the men’s was so much stronger even if it’s the same type of kidz). Maybe the 2-3 lone dresses are the only (borderline) HF elements. Everything else is so junior sportswear section of the department store. Not even a tailored suit in sight :sigh:

When even Hedi feels the pinch— hard times ahead, kidz.
 
^^
Tbh, the dresses looks too vintage for my taste....A whole throwback.
The two pieces i’ve ever wanted from his Celine were the blazer Carine wore on French tv and a quite fabulous Breton sweater embroidered with sequins.

But tbh, I would rather buy them at the Celine outlet or on Yoox.
Even when you see French actresses in Celine...It’s rather conventional.

Hedi is great at delivering a strong message but as I said before, besides the menswear, the only interesting about his Celine is the Fragrance line.

Now that I think about that, I’m really mad that he did not played « Ouragan ». It would have been a touch of humor.

To paraphrase Ms Roitfeld's comment on his debut collection
“This w̶o̶m̶a̶n̶ girl doesn’t have enough money to shop at H̶e̶r̶m̶è̶s̶ CHANEL, so she goes to Celine. She is not very nice to her m̶a̶i̶d̶ uber driver.”

I have purchased RTW pieces from Hedi every season thus far but I'm not sure if I will for SS21 (maybe 1-2 chanel look-a-like pieces, because frankly, I can't afford Chanel...well, at least not every season with the new prices Virginie's charging :ninja:)
I mean, you can buy Archive Chanel...It’s better and cheaper than Virginie’s.
 
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^^^ LOL Hedi would never touch anything/anyone older than 21yo so “Ouragan” would be the equivalent of having him spend time with people his own age… And I don’t get the impression he has a sense of humour either … LOOOL

Searching out older/vintage pieces from once visionary brands that have become so corporate, bland and so soulless is so much more satisfying a find. I’m still searching for my grail piece from Tom’s Gucci...
 
No matter what he said about the new generation stuff, I feels like the whole collection is made for Lisa or other celebrities to wear it for their ins or events. Look at those Kpop Star, Chinese New generation celebrities from Peter Utz Instagram.
 
It’s so weird because it seems kaia was his muse for this collection but her style is as hated as she is literally she goes viral on Twitter with a negative tweet bashing her at least once a week I actually haven’t seen a model as disliked as her on social media since Kendall Jenner and that’s saying something so I’m confused why he thought this would go over well
 

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