Chanel S/S 2026 Paris

[tricotineacetat]

The irony of it all is THE REAL Coco Chanel of the 21th century is Phoebe Philo

I‘d like to think it was more Jil Sander, considering they both had quite a few biographic similarities as female entrepreneurs, which also informed their approach to design as well as the women they designed for.

I don‘t know how singular Phoebe Philo‘s point of view can be seen once we take into consideration that her Chloé felt like something drastically different - To me, her take on 'female, minimalist design' is less purposeful and utilitarian, than it is a fashion statement fit for the Zeitgeist her Celine and own label exist(ed) in, no?

 

[marines]

 

[Kanzai]

It's irrelevant to compare someone to someone from a later time. The social structure and social role of a woman in the early decades of the 20th century, the 90s and the 2010s are different. People's values about the importance of fashion are also different through the periods, Grabielle Chanel is a "fashion" monument because her style shook the whole system, although there were many designers with different aesthetics, they all focused on designing for a class - a specific type of woman of that part of history. Both Jil Sander and Phoebe Philo were embraced by the Zeitgeist in their own times. But there must be a reason why so many women deeply love Philo (even those who dgaf about fashion world) – that kind of resonance is a form of recognition in itself, whether or not we personally align with her aesthetic.

 

[tricotineacetat]

It's irrelevant to compare someone to someone from a later time. The social structure and social role of a woman in the early decades of the 20th century, the 90s and the 2010s are different. People's values about the importance of fashion are also different through the periods, Grabielle Chanel is a "fashion" monument because her style shook the whole system, although there were many designers with different aesthetics, they all focused on designing for a class - a specific type of woman of that part of history. Both Jil Sander and Phoebe Philo were embraced by the Zeitgeist in their own times. But there must be a reason why so many women deeply love Philo (even those who dgaf about fashion world) – that kind of resonance is a form of recognition in itself, whether or not we personally align with her aesthetic.

I would argue a lot of our perception around that is heavily informed about the novelty of social media as the main driver of fashion PR, something that greatly enhances the hype and impact around fashion brands. In short: Just because everybody talks about something doesn‘t mean it equals the amount of consumers ready to buy.

Some customer demographics have more and less engagement with social media just as much as certain brands aggressively push their marketing whereas others maintain a largely private presence.

 

[RosesAreRed]

I think we will only know when his produts get in stores and we see reaction from real clients. Chanel is in it's own league. I feel they have a lot of clients who wear nearly exclusively Chanel. So their reaction would be important.

 

[tourbillions]

What I hope for Blazy's Chanel is that they actually start filling their stores with RTW instead of merch rtw. And also Instead of only keeping a few precious tweed things/eveningwear in the backroom for the VIC's. More than Hermes, they need to entice people to find RTW that will later make them justify buying their bags. IDK about other stores but from what I see the selection is too limited other than the bags/shoes/jewelry.

 

[Caffeine]

What I hope for Blazy's Chanel is that they actually start filling their stores with RTW instead of merch rtw. And also Instead of only keeping a few precious tweed things/eveningwear in the backroom for the VIC's. More than Hermes, they need to entice people to find RTW that will later make them justify buying their bags. IDK about other stores but from what I see the selection is too limited other than the bags/shoes/jewelry.

It really depends on the store. Some are filled with rtw.

The immediate impact is that the existing customers are buying up the classic looks in stores lol

 

[marines]

 

[disco54]

I‘d like to think it was more Jil Sander, considering they both had quite a few biographic similarities as female entrepreneurs, which also informed their approach to design as well as the women they designed for.

I don‘t know how singular Phoebe Philo‘s point of view can be seen once we take into consideration that her Chloé felt like something drastically different - To me, her take on 'female, minimalist design' is less purposeful and utilitarian, than it is a fashion statement fit for the Zeitgeist her Celine and own label exist(ed) in, no?

Not at all , it is Phoebe Philo's aesthetic which has dominated fashion , the number of clone houses is astounding I have never seen anything like it , Jil Sander is completely irrelevent sorry to say.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Oh she looks gorgeous! At first I wondered why that hair, but it works in a 20s Josephine Baker/Clara Bow kind of way. The camelia is cheap looking though and should have been removed, both for the runway and here.

 

[Caffeine]

Oh she looks gorgeous! At first I wondered why that hair, but it works in a 20s Josephine Baker/Clara Bow kind of way. The camelia is cheap looking though and should have been removed, both for the runway and here.

I don't think it is a camellia, at least not how they normally make it.
This is a stunning dress. And I agree with you that the flower should have been made nicer.

 

[jeanclaude]

What strikes me the most is that Ayo dress was fitted to her body...while the same dress for the show was not fitted for the model...go figure!!

 

[tricotineacetat]

Not at all , it is Phoebe Philo's aesthetic which has dominated fashion , the number of clone houses is astounding I have never seen anything like it , Jil Sander is completely irrelevent sorry to say.

I am confused to read this, since what I mentioned neither suggested to speak of the relevance of the Jil Sander brand today, nor compare Jil Sander with Phoebe Philo, other than to seek a biographic similarities between Ms. Chanel and Ms. Sander that were highlighting a sense of utility and practicality that isn’t a strong feature in the work of Phoebe Philo.

We do not need to argue how many other labels and designers have copied the style of Phoebe Philo in the last 10 years but I think noone would go the lengths to put her contribution to fashion history on par with designers like Jil Sander, Helmut Lang, Calvin Klein or Donna Karan (designers whose careers span decades) just because neither one of their namesake brands are commercially or culturally significant today.

Phoebe Philo’s career is not over yet but I consider it unlikely her name will be linked to a significant trademark silhouette or defining pieces that will be remembered in the same capacity as either one of the above designers or even for that matter, Nicolas Ghesquière’s.

 

[Monsieur Cristobal]

Maybe I am wrong, but I would say that Jil Sander's aesthetic has been even more relevant than Phoebe's, without denying her importance which is enormous.
But if you consider that Jil influenced such behemots like COS and Uniqlo, whereas Phoebe has been copyied to death mainly in high fashion, maybe Jil wins by the numbers.

When influence is really big it becomes unnoticeable.
Many women would be surprised to know that the way they dress today is indebted to Chanel. The same applies to Jil Sander.

But the woman who is dressed à la Phoebe Philo, 99% of the times knows it. She belongs to the fashion-obsessed minority and was searching for that specific look.

 

[Reggie63]

Saying that Jil Sander is completely irrelevant today is egregiously misinformed and utterly lacks any deeper understanding of the history of fashion. I completely agree with tricotineacetat that you cannot equate relevance with how their eponymous brands are currently faring and with Monsier Cristobal that her influence has completely penetrated how we dress without us even knowing where the influence came from.

Earlier on when I was starting to educate myself about fashion, I was absolutely quite surprised that her work in the 90s was absolutely the blueprint of how people dressed in the 2000s, even up to today. When you look at and read about retrospectives on her work, or even look at runway shots on Firstview, those clothes have a timelessness that even though you can firmly place it in the 90s, they transcend beyond that decade and looks much more appealing that what we unfortunately see in the runway for quite some time.

I would argue that in addition to the styles she proposed, her approach and what she stood for even makes her more relevant now. The fact that the clothes that she sold back in the 90s are still being used by people who were fortunate enough to buy them, and still look new is something we have to demand for if this industry has any chance of surviving the unsustainable demands of cheap mass production. The fact that she had uncompromising standards (the quality of her cashmere, for some reason or another, had never been replicated by likes of LP or BC) and the fact that she understood the need of her clients (she demanded having several types of fabric, and never just settled for what the manufacturer had available because she knew her clients lived in different climates) just further reinforces the fact that when you buy something expensive, you get something of substance. Surely, this is much more desirable that the exorbitantly-priced shallow pseudo-luxury merch that these big box brands have been forcing down everyone's collective throats. Actually, forget about relevance - we need her voice more than ever.

 

[Grets]

Jil Sander was design purity. Phoebe Philo is post-minimalism. Matthieu is another flavour of this post minimalism. Wardrobing, textural embellishments, irregular shapes, functional it bags, it shoes, minimal branding. Daniel Lee, Lazaro and Jack, Lucie and Luke Meier so many designers are of this post-minimalist style.

 

[psychopsist]

Interrupting just to say she looks soo adorable in these more dynamic shots! cute heels too. that attachment is very budget prom tho

(Ayo Edibiri in Chanel ss26, London Fill Festival)

 

[Caffeine]

I was thinking about something ironic on the runway shows...
While the corporate men were all dressed in their bespoke suits, they presented the clown jackets for women who will never wear them to be in the same room as these men.
For all the talk about women in the work place, the clothes the contemporary designers present are decidedly work unfriendly.
(This comment is not just about Chanel. )

 

[Monsieur Cristobal]

Interrupting just to say she looks soo adorable in these more dynamic shots! cute heels too. that attachment is very budget prom tho

(Ayo Edibiri in Chanel ss26, London Fill Festival)

View attachment 1422821 View attachment 1422822

The flou was lovely, my favorite part of the show.
It needs to be explored more, not only for the sake of beauty, but also to make Chanel less reminiscent of his Bottega (the Charvet shirts + big skirts)

Ayo looks marvelous.

 

[psychopsist]

I was thinking about something ironic on the runway shows...
While the corporate men were all dressed in their bespoke suits, they presented the clown jackets for women who will never wear them to be in the same room as these men.
For all the talk about women in the work place, the clothes the contemporary designers present are decidedly work unfriendly.
(This comment is not just about Chanel. )

oh, interesting thought? Do any specific shows besides Chanel come to mind?

YSL was prob one of my fav shows this season but the bows and leather made me think back to fw06 by Pilati and definitely AV’s take is more of a costume while Pilatis was more professional and wearable. Even when there’s talk of “sexy” im always like, would i rather be a little minx for hubby in a cute office look or AV’s giant hazmat suit trench dress? but i guess there’s the “taking the big coat off” style of seduction.

but anywaysss i rlly am curious what shows inspired this insight