Charles de Vilmorin Haute Couture F/W 2023.24 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[Koibito]

My gosh…

 

[LadyJunon]

I don't know what to say. It's so bad...

 

[Lola701]

The highlight here is clearly Ines….

 

[bennyboy]

is this a JOKE to HC?

 

[avonlea002]

He should just start only fans with Jacquemus and Ludovic. Maybe that's where they would excel.

 

[jeanclaude]

(bravotv.com)

 

[Cocteau Stone]

The kind of thing Charles Jeffrey would churn out at LOVERBOY but somehow it's worse...

All the frayed hems really send me. There's a time and place for them, where there's certain fabrics they respond to well either in general or when using a certain amount, but this is not it. CSM Grad collection level of nonsense.

 

[youthinasia]

Is that the only print he can do? It’s pretty much across all his collections.

 

[LadyJunon]

Is that the only print he can do? It’s pretty much across all his collections.

It's probably like Marine Serre's moon print.

 

[FashionFanatico]

All the money
and connections
in the world
can't buy
talent.

 

[Lola701]

All the money
and connections
in the world
can't buy
talent.

I actually think he has a talent. After all he was discovered through things he made himself…
But talent is not enough. You want to work as a designer and set yourself apart as a « Couturier »? Learn your craft. Learn about fabrics, learn about cuts.

‘We all agree that simplicity is the most difficult thing. It’s even more difficult in HC because it doesn’t lie, you can’t « noyer le poisson ». And it shows here. All the approximative draping cannot hide the flaws.

 

[tourbillions]

drag race design challenge

 

[youthinasia]

drag race design challenge

Season 1, Episode 1 - Drag on a dime

 

[LadyJunon]

I actually think he has a talent. After all he was discovered through things he made himself…

But talent is not enough. You want to work as a designer and set yourself apart as a « Couturier »? Learn your craft. Learn about fabrics, learn about cuts.

‘We all agree that simplicity is the most difficult thing. It’s even more difficult in HC because it doesn’t lie, you can’t « noyer le poisson ». And it shows here. All the approximative draping cannot hide the flaws.

Looking at De Vilmorin's designs for his eponymous label and Rochas, I'll give him credit as it's due.

His vision is quite unique and different to his peers and creating a fashion label of this caliber is never easy, regardless of socioeconomic background. The fact that he went through the effort to make his first set of collections himself is also respectable in my eyes. The fact that his designs are quite beautiful when well made helps too.

The main issue is that that a unique vision and beautiful designs doesn't suffice for a small high-end label, let alone a newly formed Couture house. If De Vilmorin secure his label as a "Couture house", he really needs to improve his technical skills in tailoring and soft dressmaking. As he does that, he could also invest in a couple of clothing technicians that have previous experience in couture or high-end clothing.

 

[Mrs.T]

Season 1, Episode 1 - Drag on a dime

 

[LadyJunon]

Inès de la Fressange looks really good for someone who's turning 66 in August. She looks so happy to be back on the runway too.

 

[perhydrol]

I feel like Charles needs a person in his team who would be able to tell him where to stop with his ideas. This collection is literally too wild and it must have had a serious impact on the quality of the actual garments as they don't really look like couture. Same with his way of using colour, there's something extremely uncomfortable in that aspect of de Vilmorin's work. However, his final collection for Rochas proved that he is capable of creating good clothes, he just needs to think more about the construction and the quality of fabrics instead of all the theatrics and decorations.

 

[LadyJunon]

I feel like Charles needs a person in his team who would be able to tell him where to stop with his ideas. This collection is literally too wild and it must have had a serious impact on the quality of the actual garments as they don't really look like couture. Same with his way of using colour, there's something extremely uncomfortable in that aspect of de Vilmorin's work. However, his final collection for Rochas proved that he is capable of creating good clothes, he just needs to think more about the construction and the quality of fabrics instead of all the theatrics and decorations.

While I agree that he needs to focus on construction, it'd be a shame for him to completely strip off the theatricality since it's a good part of his brand identity (and seems to be the reason for why his label isn't dismissed as another nepo-brand).

It would be smart for him to take notes from McQueen's very early collections and shows(up to Joan) where the theatrics were very present, but were mostly elements of the show staging, rather than the clothes themselves.

He should probably find a new studio director too. His current studio director is a woman called Lea Biais and she literally graduated from IFM last year...

 

[perhydrol]

^ I just think it's absolutely pointless to have a horse on one's head, or to carry a massive face around, if those gimmicks have nothing to do with the rest of the look. That's what he should leave behind imho.