Chloé - What does it need to succeed?

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Chloé has been a sleeping beauty for… years. I think the main reason was that the designers they chose after Phoebe were not the right ones for the brand and didn’t have a very strong vision. With Gabriela Hearst the brand fell into oblivion.

After Chemena’s debut the brand gained some momentum, do you think it will last?
What do you think the brand needs to be big again?

Just curious to know what you think.
 
Chloé needs to succeed because it’s the flagship fashion brand of Richemont, simple as that lol.
But I think it’s an important brand in fashion history nevertheless and it’s really a brand that embody an aesthetic. It can be a tricky thing as it may limit it perspectives of evolution. We associate Chloe with Boho chic but in reality, it can be many things while speaking to that same woman.

I don’t think the designer who were chosen after Phoebe weren’t the right ones. I think the suits weren’t courageous enough to take risk. I think sometimes, you needs someone courageous who will come and shake things off.
I think Paolo Melun Anderson was good for Chloe. He had 3 main collections. His first 2 collections were still very Marni but at least he got people attention…
His last collection for Chloe was fabulous, more in the spirit of Karl than Phoebe. He was fired and the irony is that The Paraty bag and the Suzanna boots which were the cash cows of the brands for seasons were from that season.

For what is worth, MacGibbon allowed the brand to be more adult and Waight Keller made the brand more contemporary. Natacha was maybe too edgy.

And I agree, the brand fell into oblivion with Gabriela.

I think Chemena can work on the long run if she allows herself to evolve and to take risks. Because now, her Chloe is very reassuring. It’s familiar and easy to understand. But boho chic can quickly become boring and you cannot stay eternally the cool chick. Look at Isabel Marant now…
 
After Chemena they should get Ulla Johnson on board. Her aesthetic and vibe is very Chloe friendly.
 
I'm going to parrot Lola here and say that Chloe never quite managed to step outside of Philo's shadow. The mix of several miscast designers and suits lacking in expertise definitely damaged the brand. Chloe under Chemena's direction has a good chance of becoming the force it has the potential to be. Her debut did its job in established a strong core identity and laying down the foundations.

What will be crucial for her is to figure out what direction to go in from here. She can't really stay in that 70s-meets-00s boho look for long or it can risk becoming sour very quickly. Her debut probably surpassed expectations, so I imagine that the suits will give her more space to explore the Chloe identity.
 
I agree about Paulo, he was my favorite of them all and had a very strong vision. I really liked him.

I don’t think the strategy was good with Natacha and with Gabriela.

CWK is quite loved, Karl said she was good… I am not that convinced.

I feel like every designer put their 2 cents, Hannah the Marcie, Gabriela the Namas, Paulo the Susanna and the Paraty… Claire and Natacha didn’t do something that is still on the product offer though.
 
For a while I wondered if Chloe would benefit from returning to their original formula one day, of just hiring a bunch of young designers... it might be fun. But I guess someone still has to have the ultimate say and who would that be nowadays?
 
For a while I wondered if Chloe would benefit from returning to their original formula one day, of just hiring a bunch of young designers... it might be fun. But I guess someone still has to have the ultimate say and who would that be nowadays?
Could it work though?
Ultimately one person triumphed in the original formula and defined the aesthetic of the brand.
Because the designers who did Chloe after Karl tried to move on from the aesthetic he created but it wasn’t a success so I think the brand needs a strong incarnation in order to really move forward.
 
Isn't it ALREADY succeeding? It's sales are up from the last few years.
That's what I'm questioning myself as well. Even though people may not agree here, but Beyoncé as someone who wears high fashion and influences other people, has been wearing quite a lot of pieces lately and that helps the brand image consolidation. The Chloé belt seems to be a hit too...

Does anyone know how they're doing when it comes to perfumes?
 

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