Brands That Need a Makeover/Overhaul

[squilliam]

what brands do you think are stuck in a rut or have just become passé? Which ones need new designers and/or completely new visions/aesthetics? Are there any that you think should just be shut down? Are there ones that have lost their hype and have as they say in the TV industry "jumped the shark"? (I guess we could use "broke the heel" for a fashion brand? I dunno)

Personally I think that Dolce & Gabbana and Chanel are stuck in a rut. Balmain is passé. Dior and Saint Laurent and McQueen need new designers. The failed revival houses like Vionnet should be shut down. Rodarte has "jumped the shark", it's become tired and no longer lives up to its hype.

 

[cyberprada]

Balmain became vulgar and gaudy but I guess people like it so ... I personally think that the house needs a new designer.
And I completely agree with you about Chanel and Dolce & Gabbana.

 

[GivenchyHomme]

New Designers:

Dior - I believe that the job is beginning to overwhelm Raf. He's struggling to translate ideas into a physical form. The construction of his garments has improved greatly but color still seems to be an issue as well as consistency.

Balmain - Olivier is more of a decorator than a designer. He uses extravagant fabrics and embellisments to compensate for a lack of taste and vision. Without all the sparkle all we're left with is an outdated mess.

Houses that should be closed:

Rodarte - Do I really need to explain?
Ungaro
Paco Rabanne (RTW)

Makeover/Overhaul

Dolce & Gabanna
Alexander Mcqueen
John Galliano
Proenza Schouler - Ever since they declared themselves as "Grown Up" their collections have been pretentious, contrived, and in a word; horrible. Change isn't always a good thing and sometimes it's best to stick to what you're good at.

 

[rebel]

New Designers:
Balenciaga
Balmain

Houses that should be closed:
Alexander McQueen

Makeover/Overhaul:
Versace
Givenchy

 

[VersaceVixen009]

New Designer: Burberry. I adore Christopher Bailey's work from the early 2000s and I love how he maintains the heritage of the Brand by continuing the check and only casting Britain-based models, but I think now he's having trouble relating Burberry to the women of today, especially the stylish minimalism women seem to desire.

 

[softgrey]

it's a good idea for a thread...

not sure you guys are really focused on reality or just your own personal tastes..
many of the brands cited don't seem to actually be in trouble...
except maybe rodarte...


i would say sonia rykiel is in trouble...
and what about alberta ferretti?
versace- well...it has its strengths and its weaknesses every season and the designers rotate regularly...kinda weird...but at least they are trying...

paco rabanne- agreed- just a mess and i don't understand why it's so hard to get that sorted out...

GAP!!!!!!!!!!...that needs help...
and so does j crew...

gucci is and has been a disaster for some time...

what about chloe?
that kind of sucks, if you ask me...

i don't like dior or balenciaga now- but it's still early days and those are some big houses to jump into...
i'm not sure i am willing to call them a disaster yet...
same with margiela...

how about diesel...?
blech!

 

[Sweet rus]

I agree with most of you. I think that Chanel, D&G and Balmain need some serious makover and resfreshment as they have become too redundant and boring.
I would like to see new designers for YSL and Dior, possibly Gucci as well (it's too early to say, but I was so underwhelmed by their last collection, that I don't have too much faith in their new designer).
John Galliano should definitely be closed. There are definitely more out there but this is the first one that popped in my head.

I would also love to see Alber Elbaz work for more than only Lanvin, he is so talented and could help to bring some of the brands to another level (YSL and as crazy as it might sound Gucci maybe?). I would also love to see more of Olivier Theyskens's work (do you think he could do Chanel?).

 

[VersaceVixen009]

it's a good idea for a thread...

not sure you guys are really focused on reality or just your own personal tastes..
many of the brands cited don't seem to actually be in trouble...
except maybe rodarte...

I'm also going by sales when it comes to Burberry. They haven't been doing that well clothing wise.

 

[softgrey]

did burberry ever sell a lot of clothes...?
beyond the obvious stuff with the trad plaid, i mean...

there was that one season with the mouton moto jkts, but those were too $$ for most of the world's population, so i doubt very many were actually sold at retail, even if we saw them in the media...

i dunno...
i feel like they make their money on accessories and branded stuff...
like most of the big heritage brands...

 

[zacatecas570]

Makeover:

Dolce & Gabbana: They used to be very edgy and modern, now it feels like it is the same collection for the past 5 years.

New Designer:

Gucci: Alessandro Michel tackiness needs to be stopped, even if I've seen just 2 collections I'm already tired.

Chanel: Karl is very talented, but I'd love to see Coco Chanel's vision by another designer, maybe Alber Elbaz.

 

[softgrey]

ferragamo...?

what about armani...any thoughts...?

loewe ...like a tacky 80's nightmare...to stupid to even exist!

 

[softgrey]

what about french connection? does anyone even buy that anymore?

 

[Fewormany]

I would like to see more designers start designing under their own name instead of channeling their view through the esthetics of a brand (Lemaire leaving Hermès comes to mind).
That would really shake some things up..

Nicolas Ghesquière would be a perfect candidate for this in my opinion.

 

[softgrey]

what about calvin klein...
when was the last time that was relevant?

 

[softgrey]

I would like to see more designers start designing under their own name instead of channeling their view through the esthetics of a brand (Lemaire leaving Hermès comes to mind).
That would really shake some things up..

Nicolas Ghesquière would be a perfect candidate for this in my opinion.

that would be great..
i'm sure the designers would also prefer to be able to express their individuality...

but these big jobs offer security and a steady paycheck with someone else worrying about the math and the sales while they are able to concentrate on design...
some people might prefer that arrangement...

even st laurent worked at dior for years before starting his own brand...

i don't know how to make it work without a well connected family- like alex wang...

unless you do it on a smaller scale...
we never talk about contemporary brands at tFS but there are a lot of those smaller brands that do really good stuff...
apiece apart comes to mind...

 

[Fewormany]

that would be great..
i'm sure the designers would also prefer to be able to express their individuality...

but these big jobs offer security and a steady paycheck with someone else worrying about the math and the sales while they are able to concentrate on design...
some people might prefer that arrangement...

I understand why it isn't more common, but it's a big part of the reason why many brands are stuck/irrelevant.
Money kills creativity, or so it seems..

 

[squilliam]

I find it amusing how this thread just suddenly blew up after laying dormant the few days after inception, but anyway...


I think some designers have enough of a following to be able to start their own line and have it be a success as long as they have a good business model.

I think Victoria ' s Secret needs a makeover, it's turned into a confused hot mess. At least with their image and advertising anyway

 

[ultramarine]

Close:

John Galliano
Ungaro

Overhaul:
McQueen
D&G
Gucci
Chanel

 

[softgrey]

I find it amusing how this thread just suddenly blew up after laying dormant the few days after inception, but anyway...


I think some designers have enough of a following to be able to start their own line and have it be a success as long as they have a good business model.

I think Victoria ' s Secret needs a makeover, it's turned into a confused hot mess. At least with their image and advertising anyway

hey- it's your thread!
...

i just keep thinking of more and more brands...
and it was a bit odd to me that so many people just named the same 5-6 brands...
when there are SO many that seem in need of help...

victoria's secret is a good one...
and so is The Limited...
i have no idea what is going on at the limited anymore...
?

OMG-
and what ever happened to Benetton?
and Girbaud?

 

[Not Plain Jane]

chanel for sure. karl was good for a long time, but the clothes have been awful for a few years at least.

armani? i am not sure. perhaps that is a line that should just end when he retires? it seems borne out of another era for some reason, and i am not entirely sure it's a timeless line in the way that, say, chanel is.

it had cache in the 80s-90s but beyond that? not so much. i guess a new designer might rejuvenate it, but i don't know if that's necessary.

french connection is ugh... it was so lovely, too, in the 90s. but now it's so ... generic.

the gap? i never go in there. ever.

jcrew has become a copy of jenna lyons' personal style. at first she did bring a stylish twist to the stores, including adding in the jcrew collection. but i think she sacrificed many of their high quality basics in the process.