You can't be serious with that opinion piece. Did you even read it? The author ends it with "Cheers!". The lack of fact checking, abundance of general historical inaccuracies, and simple errors of grammar, should be enough to make you question the integrity of it.
For a start, this person is comparing Dior's designs to dressing codes of the Victorian era (quite an expansive period of time filled with nuances of dress from the beginning in 1837 until the end in 1901). Monsieur Dior was not referencing the "Victorian Era", he was paying tribute (and very lightly at that) to the dressing codes and to the social and cultural history of the Belle Époque. It's significantly different historically, culturally, and aesthetically speaking.
Secondly, the writer is somehow linking the social (domestic) roles of women in the 1950's and 1960's to the Dior silhouettes, which makes absolutely no sense.
Finally we have arrived at the conclusion that women wearing Dior clothes are symbols of repression and oppression, and that
"fashion that was born out of rationing fabrics and buttons gave women the freedom of movement and independence".
I think she needs to go back to school and read a few more history books on World War II if she believes that
"rationing fabrics and buttons gave women the freedom of movement and independence". I don't believe anyone in their right mind could argue that uniforms, Government-regulated employment/social roles, and rationing of food, was a period of freedom and source of independence for women.
What's more is that we are talking about garments that are
Haute Couture. Intended to be worn by the richest women of that time. Many of these women had their own source of wealth (in most cases generational and inherited, but still their own) and therefore independence and freedom because of that. They were choosing and wearing these Dior garments by their own admission and not bec
You can't be serious with that opinion piece. Did you even read it? The author ends it with "Cheers!". The lack of fact checking, abundance of general historical inaccuracies, and simple errors of grammar, should be enough to make you question the integrity of it.
For a start, this person is comparing Dior's designs to dressing codes of the Victorian era (quite an expansive period of time filled with nuances of dress from the beginning in 1837 until the end in 1901). Monsieur Dior was not referencing the "Victorian Era", he was paying tribute (and very lightly at that) to the dressing codes and to the social and cultural history of the Belle Époque. It's significantly different historically, culturally, and aesthetically speaking.
Secondly, the writer is somehow linking the social (domestic) roles of women in the 1950's and 1960's to the Dior silhouettes, which makes absolutely no sense.
Finally we have arrived at the conclusion that women wearing Dior clothes are symbols of repression and oppression, and that "fashion that was born out of rationing fabrics and buttons gave women the freedom of movement and independence".
I think she needs to go back to school and read a few more history books on World War II if she believes that "rationing fabrics and buttons gave women the freedom of movement and independence". I don't believe anyone in their right mind could argue that uniforms, Government-regulated employment/social roles, and rationing of food, was a period of freedom and source of independence for women.
What's more is that we are talking about garments that are Haute Couture. Intended to be worn by the richest women of that time. Many of these women had their own source of wealth (in most cases generational and inherited, but still their own) and therefore independence and freedom because of that. They were choosing and wearing these Dior garments by their own admission and not because they were forced to by some invisible social/cultural and/or misogynistic forces.
ause they were forced to by some invisible social/cultural and/or misogynistic forces.
That writer could have been more precise and clear, I give you that but there are the other articles I posted which corroborate the same claim: women protested the new look, yes because of the yardage, but also because they viewed the nipped waist as regressive and misogynistic. This is fact, you learn about it in any introductory class on historic costume or fashion history. I don't care if you don't believe that it happened. Valerie Steele, Patricia Mears, Andrew Bolton, Pamela Goblin would all confirm this. Do more than 5 minutes of research on Google and you can confirm it for yourself.
Belle Epoque:
You're right, the writer should have said Belle Epoque though in the UK that same era is often referred to as the Victorian era. In the U.S. it is referred to as The Gilded Age. Not the same things. Noted. You can dwell on that or you can take heed of the actual point the writer was making: Dior was referencing an era of fashion that was dominated by the corset and the bustle and that women's clothing at that time mirrored their restricted freedom and rights. Dior's nostalgic pining and reintroduction of the exaggerated bust, nipped waist, and big skirt was seen by some women as a return to more repressive times.
Regarding Wartime Independence:
Yes, while fabric restrictions and other wartime rationing during WWII were not so glamorous, women did enjoy an unprecedented amount of freedom as most of the men were off fighting and left their old jobs needing to be filled. Women had their own income and took on decision-making, management, and leadership roles in their communities and businesses that were not open to them before. They were more active and independent and their fashion reflected this. When Dior emerged with the new look, some were ecstatic. Others, for reasons mentioned in the paragraph above, were not. Again, this is fashion history 101. Literally, it was a whole lecture in my fashion history survey back in college. It's in almost every fashion history textbook.
1950's Oppression:
No one is demomizing Dior. He was no fascist dictator (on the contrary, Chanel was a literal nazi f*cker). The thesis the writer was making was that Dior's new look catalyzed a feminist reaction against his inhibiting and cumbersome designs. Consider it context of the bigger counterculture reaction against 1950s conservatism and it makes a lot of sense .
And Dior's clothes
were inhibiting and cumbersome. I've examined the inner construction of some pieces from Dior's early collections and those things were built like tanks and about as heavy. In contrast with the sportswear from American designers like Claire McCardell from the same time, they're outright oppressive.
Your view that the socially elite women who bought haute couture were somehow totally independent is funny. It was more the rule rather than the exception that their bills were sent to be paid by their husbands. In fact, many women were accompanied to the salons by their husbands who would often pick out and veto which models their wives could order. And the idea that those women could wear whatever they wanted with no social repercussions is funny, too. But that's a tangent for another time.
The 1950's was grand and beautiful but it was also culturally conservative and inhibited. No woman was forced into wearing Dior's clothes. In fact, many women loved wearing his clothes. There is a reason the new look defined the decade. But not everyone was happy with it. Not everyone was happy with the 1950s in general. Which is why you had the beatniks and later the hippies, the youthquake, second wave feminism, the American sportswear revolution, etc.
I'm not trying to attack you or accuse you of being anti-woman for liking Dior. I love the corolla line, I can appreciate its elegance within its historical context. I can also see that it was not the best thing for advancing the agency of women. I do believe it was misogynist. But you know what? Most things in that era were.
I invite you to consider contrary points of view without being indignant.
And don't take my word for any of this. There are so many great books on the subject matter. Read them for yourself.
I've said what I had to say. To you and anyone else who might not care for it, feel free to use the ignore function..