Christian Dior Haute Couture F/W 2023.24 Paris

I guess, this is quite luxury…
She presents her clothes in such an insipid way that it kills me.

It’s pity because it’s very chic. But with a bland casting, a beige palette and an even more being choreography can’t save it.
The set, despite being colorful is very much Gris Dior.

Some dresses looks like a block of fabric on a flat body.

‘But good techniques and dressmaking.
 
This collection is very close to the work she did at Valentino, definitely in spirit.
It just lacks energy and vitality. I feel that with these type of collections something needs to be a bit off. Maybe in a bag or a shoe.

this feels also very directed at a middle eastern client.
 
I feel like that really is the only criticism you can throw at her, that she's not showy. When I think of what this would look like in a procession of the history of Dior, it definitely fits, but it's not outstanding. Her aesthetic is what it is. Nothing is groundbreaking. But I almost admire that when everyone else is trying to break the "boundaries" that they make up in their heads for some vague sense of what creativity and rebellion mean.
 
Her colours are beige and greige this season. What joy.

I do have to commend the dressmaking here though. It's pretty spectacular, especially when you compare to what her fellow designers are putting out.

And I don't mind a sheath or a wall of fabric on the body, the model just has to have more presence to really carry it which is always something I wished she would at least do with the casting. Her approach to couture does have a regality to it, and yet the choice in casting undermines that a fair bit.
 
I loved it. Even in the still images one can see how light the tailoring is, how it just floats on the body. The jackets slightly pinched in at the waist, and the maxi skirts with a slight gather at the hem - very beautiful silhouettes. My favourite look is the black dress on Sui He.
 
In a similar vein to what MGC fans say, I appreciate that she is a female designer catering to a female demographic that want to dress in a less ‘groundbreaking’ or ‘young’ way, or however you define these clothes. But I feel like saying that is really demanding the bare minimum of fashion… Feminist discourse for another day I suppose.

There’s some gorgeous pieces that won’t have it’s craftsmanship appreciated because it’s dull. I can only speak for myself but when I follow HC I want to feel something other than pretty and well-made…
 
She just flat out REFUSES to be creative, huh? The production is superb without a doubt, and the fabric choices are gorgeous, but she seems to think that "understated" and "boring" are synonymous. Fashion CAN be subtle, original, and exciting at the same time...if one had the vision for it. Which she never had.
 
That quintessential Valentino look she continues at Dior feels so chaste and lifeless to me... It starts with the middle-parted hair and ends with the absolutely joyless procession of greiges and off-white, added to that with a lot of fabrics that provide little surface texture. We all know the difference is in the making but in terms of the design, you can really tell she does not have the chops of a real couturier, if you compare that, say, with what Karl Lagerfeld brought to life at Chanel.
 
She wants to do this very understated, pure look for Couture, but it looks borderline childlike at times. Philo could've pulled this off with so much more intelligence and sophistication.
 
On the runway her collections tend to look a little boring but on individuals they have a regal vibe to them. These will look nice on royalty, diplomats, stylish government officials and those 1% women that like to have that regal look to them.
 

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