Christian Dior Pre-Fall 2021 Paris

[velvetandsilk]

Someone overdoses trendbook.

 

[fakeawake]

I didn't even look at the collection tbh - i dont have time to sit here and piece things together. i make a judgement and move on.

the atelier must love MGC bc that's the only way she's been on so long. She must be very innovative in her tailoring or something. I just watched dior and I (first time), and seeing how the atelier low key resented Raf from the first day because of his lack of technical skills, only a designer with really good skills that can 'wow' the atelier can get respect at Dior. As someone who isn't even a clothes maker it seemed like Raf didn't even know how darts work in terms of creating volume.

I mean I noticed the construction of one of her bar jackets in person was pretty nice, in a very subtle way. John's construction was more "Dior" in that it was very in your face.

MGC is what they thought Raf was going to be pretty clearly - modernized Dior Archive classics with logo tees and sneakers.

 

[WAVES]

I didn't even look at the collection tbh - i dont have time to sit here and piece things together. i make a judgement and move on.

the atelier must love MGC bc that's the only way she's been on so long. She must be very innovative in her tailoring or something. I just watched dior and I (first time), and seeing how the atelier low key resented Raf from the first day because of his lack of technical skills, only a designer with really good skills that can 'wow' the atelier can get respect at Dior. As someone who isn't even a clothes maker it seemed like Raf didn't even know how darts work in terms of creating volume.

I mean I noticed the construction of one of her bar jackets in person was pretty nice, in a very subtle way. John's construction was more "Dior" in that it was very in your face.

MGC is what they thought Raf was going to be pretty clearly - modernized Dior Archive classics with logo tees and sneakers.

this is why I loathe her at Dior. because if any of this^ is true (I’m not gunning for an ‘opinion fight’ because you stated yours and you even used valid points to corroborate it and I respect that), it only makes everything worse.

Raf was never a favourite of mine at Dior (he should’ve stayed at Jill Sander or just stick to his own brand but I guess his big ego thought he could handle Dior and after that Calvin Klein and we saw how that ended...), but despite the fact that he didn’t have the atelier skills to which he was very honest about (his Uni degree is Furniture Design or something, right? and he was a let’s say autodidact in Fashion Design....), he created outstanding pieces for Christian Dior (that red coat that Mariacarla is wearing for the ad campaign comes to mind).
and his collections were very modern, under the CD original aesthetic.

you don’t modernise a brand with logos and sneakers...
this logomania bullsh*t was resurrected by Alessandro Michele which only real and very good talent IMO is in the accessories department because when it comes to clothes it’s all blatant copies from other designers and thrift shops. hence why the logomania that usually attracts the masses and extremely original accessories. his success with clothes happened as a consequence...

someone show me an outstanding RTW piece MGC has created for Christian Dior. I’ll be waiting.

 

[YohjiAddict]

Pre-Fall is where dreams come to die...disgusting lookbook each and every look is cheesy and off-putting, the polaroid format is just as tryhard and in that sense it's a perfect reflection of the clothes themselves. I agree that her great "talent" is making clothes which could appeal to everyone and are more comfortable than not...but this is Dior, not Old Navy. I honestly don't think that getting rid of her will save this house, the suits have realized just how easy is to run this house on auto-pilot and I don't see them choosing someone that's willing and able to create something fresh. Easier to sell CD embroidered bucket hats.

To add more salt to the wound no young designer is interested in making fancy dresses, it's all about cheapness nowadays. People have proposed Richad Quinn but I actually think his real talent has nothing to do with the frilly crap he insists on showing, he's better at Moncler and he would be great at Miu Miu. Theyskenes would be lovely but that's just a distant dream...

Off-topic: the last seasons of Raf at Jil Sander were nothing short of disrespectful to what the house stands for, classic and uncomplicated as opposed to trendy and gimmicky. His last collection of pretty 50s housewife costumes seemed perfectly out of sync with the modern working woman that Jil understood so well...no wonder it did not sell.

 

[fakeawake]

this is why I loathe her at Dior. because if any of this^ is true (I’m not gunning for an ‘opinion fight’ because you stated yours and you even used valid points to corroborate it and I respect that), it only makes everything worse.

Raf was never a favourite of mine at Dior (he should’ve stayed at Jill Sander or just stick to his own brand but I guess his big ego thought he could handle Dior and after that Calvin Klein and we saw how that ended...), but despite the fact that he didn’t have the atelier skills to which he was very honest about (his Uni degree is Furniture Design or something, right? and he was a let’s say autodidact in Fashion Design....), he created outstanding pieces for Christian Dior (that red coat that Mariacarla is wearing for the ad campaign comes to mind).
and his collections were very modern, under the CD original aesthetic.

you don’t modernise a brand with logos and sneakers...
this logomania bullsh*t was resurrected by Alessandro Michele which only real and very good talent IMO is in the accessories department because when it comes to clothes it’s all blatant copies from other designers and thrift shops. hence why the logomania that usually attracts the masses and extremely original accessories. his success with clothes happened as a consequence...

someone show me an outstanding RTW piece MGC has created for Christian Dior. I’ll be waiting.

I don't want to argue either.

I genuinely don't know why they hired Raf. Arnault listened to Anna on that one. He did have one good collection but it was all based off Dior original silhouettes so Raf doesn't get credit for that.

DOn't forget that fashion brands have to put the logo away for a decade or so in order for it to be desirable. The logo was passe for like 15 years ? Now it's in again. I literally never shopped at Gucci and I'm not even joking even when Tom was there.

the construction on this jacket is pretty masterful. Making the pocket seamless in addition to covering the super long princess seam is clever construction.I haven't really seen anyone else drape a Bar jacket like this. I'm thinking - John's bar jackets were always very very complex - this is very simple.

 

[WAVES]

I don't want to argue either.

I genuinely don't know why they hired Raf. Arnault listened to Anna on that one. He did have one good collection but it was all based off Dior original silhouettes so Raf doesn't get credit for that.

DOn't forget that fashion brands have to put the logo away for a decade or so in order for it to be desirable. The logo was passe for like 15 years ? Now it's in again. I literally never shopped at Gucci and I'm not even joking even when Tom was there.

the construction on this jacket is pretty masterful. Making the pocket seamless in addition to covering the super long princess seam is clever construction.I haven't really seen anyone else drape a Bar jacket like this. I'm thinking - John's bar jackets were always very very complex - this is very simple.

all very true!

and it is a beautiful piece indeed! thank God I didn’t make a promise a la Werner Herzog or I’d be eating my own shoe!

I still find MGC’s appallingly boring. but she’s keeping sales high, the Saddle Bag is everywhere... I guess it’s what the big dogs want from her...

I just think you could have both: masses and elite (design wise)

 

[francoisbresmal]

Does anyone know who shot the lookbook? Brigitte Niedermair?

 

[tatouejeremie]

the construction on this jacket is pretty masterful. Making the pocket seamless in addition to covering the super long princess seam is clever construction.I haven't really seen anyone else drape a Bar jacket like this. I'm thinking - John's bar jackets were always very very complex - this is very simple.

that's hardly masterful.
it's a pretty basic solution, something zac posen would come up with and think it's genius

 

[kasper!]

This is a nice accessories lookbook.

 

[MyNameIs]

Maybe if they can't see the clothes in the pictures they will like our collection.

 

[jeanclaude]

the construction on this jacket is pretty masterful. Making the pocket seamless in addition to covering the super long princess seam is clever construction.I haven't really seen anyone else drape a Bar jacket like this. I'm thinking - John's bar jackets were always very very complex - this is very simple.

At this high level, perfect construction is the least you can expect...but also you are expecting actually some design into it! This is a basic bar jacket, it looks nice...but come on Mary Grace, play a bit with the patterns and try to give it a twist, and make it more special!! Just like Galliano made during his tenure!

On the other hand I have to tell you this pic is so heavily photoshopped, that it almost looks like a render of jacket...the fabric does not behave naturally at all here! You can´t even see its texture.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

Does anyone know who shot the lookbook? Brigitte Niedermair?

Yes and styled by Isabelle Kountoure.

 

[Lola701]

I don't want to argue either.

I genuinely don't know why they hired Raf. Arnault listened to Anna on that one. He did have one good collection but it was all based off Dior original silhouettes so Raf doesn't get credit for that.

DOn't forget that fashion brands have to put the logo away for a decade or so in order for it to be desirable. The logo was passe for like 15 years ? Now it's in again. I literally never shopped at Gucci and I'm not even joking even when Tom was there.

the construction on this jacket is pretty masterful. Making the pocket seamless in addition to covering the super long princess seam is clever construction.I haven't really seen anyone else drape a Bar jacket like this. I'm thinking - John's bar jackets were always very very complex - this is very simple.

Arnault hired Raf because of Delphine....
She is very involved in that.

Tbh, I think the construction of Raf’s bar jackets was the most impressive and yet modern. John’s was maybe closer to Dior but it was maybe too sophisticated...

‘MGC’s Bar jacket is very bar-lite...Almost like a structured cardigan. It’s maybe easier to wear but it does not elevate the allure.

 

[Norden]

This is bizarre really. Look at what has happened to fashion. I mourn it.
It’s just very banaaaaaaal, she thinks this is young, but this is house wife couture.