Christian Dior Pre-Fall 2023 Mumbai

[joedago]

It's better than usually... and this is far from being a compliment!!! Oh lord...

MGC's Dior is the ugly, evil stepsister of high fashion's Cinderella:
Cinderella wears Theyskens and Galliano,
the stepmother wears Viard's Chanel,
the stepsisters wear MGC's Dior,
the prince wears Tom Ford's Gucci,
the fairy godmother is this version is a tree, so it can't wear anything, but we can just hang some Ralph Rucci dresses from its branches,
And finally, the birds that attack and blind the stepsisters are the couturiers of yore seeking revenge.


If I were Christian Dior's ghost, I would've just outright possess her from the second she pulled out her first collection. Knowing fashion, MGC's replacement will miraculously be worst than her.

OMG I want to watch this cartoon !!!!!

 

[Nomar]

A shockingly bad collection with a lookbook to match. Very MGC.

 

[Drusilla_]

It's mildly better in the lookbook incarnation, but still, largely uninspired and boring considering the inspiration source in India (!).

I know it's a resort collection but the "inspiration is India"------>"collection must have hot pink pieces" pipeline is so lazy and hackneyed, this new lot of images are . Should have let that shade trend die with the Pink PP hype and just let the ghost of Vreeland pass on already..

 

[Drusilla_]

MGC's Dior is the ugly, evil stepsister of high fashion's Cinderella:
Cinderella wears Theyskens and Galliano,
the stepmother wears Viard's Chanel,
the stepsisters wear MGC's Dior,
the prince wears Tom Ford's Gucci,
the fairy godmother is this version is a tree, so it can't wear anything, but we can just hang some Ralph Rucci dresses from its branches,
And finally, the birds that attack and blind the stepsisters are the couturiers of yore seeking revenge.


If I were Christian Dior's ghost, I would've just outright possess her from the second she pulled out her first collection. Knowing fashion, MGC's replacement will miraculously be worst than her.

omg I want the illustrated version of this already. Imagine Cinderella in that blue Theyskens-era Rochas dress with the birds on it, it feels made for such a story!

 

[WAVES]

the way my phone slipped from my hand and I groaned with those first floral looks

what saves (but not really) it is the look book composition which as always is beautifully set.

India inspiration? where? I’m happy she didn’t put all the models with nose rings….

 

[Deleted member 7575]

LOVE, Love, Looooooooooooove it.

It's her best RTW yet.

Reminds me of Armani and The Row.

 

[Phuel]

I dig it too.

Take away the heinous logo prints, the drapery-outlet set, the catalogue casting and the conservative socialite pearls, and it’s a solid collection of versatile offerings that, admittedly is never going to get the approval of the high fashion clique. But women that’s already confident in their own style, these fashions will work effortlessly into their existing wardrobe of Haider Ackermann/The Row/Yohji— and vintage Helmut/Calvin/Gigli, too boot. (It's an offering that will look so much better simply on the racks.)

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I'm quite glad she didn't rely on any touristy or cliche ideas of India.

That kind of "inspiration" is just so corny.

Seems like she took a more sophisticated and nuanced approach and used it to rethink the garments inside out as well as adapt its more relaxed silhouettes and of course the embroidery.

All the pink you're seeing is obviously inspired by India.

"Pink is the navy blue of India" as Vreeland famously said.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Not bad, but not really all that great.

There's some decent and easy to work with pieces that get a bit lost in the 100+ looks in all this. A harder edit would have helped this a lot. Just because you can do one of the skirts in five plus colour and near exact pattern variations doesn't you should. It's heinous. Save it for the shop floor and clients.

And with such joyous colours, can we get less gormless looking models. Their demeanour makes me think this is more Girl Interrupted goes to India...

 

[Phuel]

^^^ Gormless apparently means female gaze/empowerment/defiance :shrugs:

Stunt and headcount casting is now not only the standard of the industry— it’s this unspoken martial law, that if not strictly obeyed, could very likely result in being cancelled: No brand would dare to present an all-White cast in 2022 for a single campaign/show/magazine issue. It’s hilariously horrifying how such blatant discrimination of freedom of creative direction is now accepted…

Anyway, always separate the presentation from the actual pieces is the only way to truly evaluate any collection these days— more so when it comes to Maria Grazia LOL (…Thank goodness she’s no longer showing those obnoxious feminist-101 statement tees…). And although Maria Grazia's fashions have never been great, it’s refreshing to see a designer who doesn’t dress women like drag queens/clowns/toddlers. It’s the presentation here that’s such a disservice to the separates (plus editing down so many looks wouldn't hurts either). Take away the jewelry, and style the casts’ hair into a simple chignon, and it would all come off so much more effortless. The dusty pink in those more structured, pressed pieces (in felt wool?) are really great. Even the hot pink is convincing since the designs are rather on the more sleeker, and tailored side. Those Indian-embroidered prints, that’s part classic Pucci and part 1960s-wallpaper, are so charming in all their simplicity. That’s genuine artisanal craftsmanship (…unlike the laughable Harris Reed bedazzled polka-dots on Adele’s dress…).

 

[Cocteau Stone]

^^^ I hate the pink purely for what Pierpaolo has done to it - and that Schiaparelli has done next to nothing with it... - but remove that association and I think it used much more effectively here.

It is such an intense, borderline day-glo shade that it needs to be used in more wearable and wardrobe friendly pieces so it can be paired back or elevated. Valentino/Pierpaolo over designed it into silhouettes and accessories that had no longevity after a couple of novel wears, max.

If the gormless look means less "empowerment" slogan tees, that's a plus I suppose. Dior did come about after the post-war gloom, so maybe Maria is capturing that feeling (pulling at strings here).

 

[Fulton St Critique]

^^^ Gormless apparently means female gaze/empowerment/defiance :shrugs:

Stunt and headcount casting is now not only the standard of the industry— it’s this unspoken martial law, that if not strictly obeyed, could very likely result in being cancelled: No brand would dare to present an all-White cast in 2022 for a single campaign/show/magazine issue. It’s hilariously horrifying how such blatant discrimination of freedom of creative direction is now accepted…

Anyway, always separate the presentation from the actual pieces is the only way to truly evaluate any collection these days— more so when it comes to Maria Grazia LOL (…Thank goodness she’s no longer showing those obnoxious feminist-101 statement tees…). And although Maria Grazia's fashions have never been great, it’s refreshing to see a designer who doesn’t dress women like drag queens/clowns/toddlers. It’s the presentation here that’s such a disservice to the separates (plus editing down so many looks wouldn't hurts either). Take away the jewelry, and style the casts’ hair into a simple chignon, and it would all come off so much more effortless. The dusty pink in those more structured, pressed pieces (in felt wool?) are really great. Even the hot pink is convincing since the designs are rather on the more sleeker, and tailored side. Those Indian-embroidered prints, that’s part classic Pucci and part 1960s-wallpaper, are so charming in all their simplicity. That’s genuine artisanal craftsmanship (…unlike the laughable Harris Reed bedazzled polka-dots on Adele’s dress…).

It’s funny you say that. I have come to realize that MG, the design team, and their merch team really do a great job at creating desirable clothes.

I realize how weird that sounds, but when you take away all the extra noise, Dior’s womenswear is deep in its RTW offering- especially online. It’s no wonder they have such a successful e-commerce business.

For more proof of their commercial success, check out Vogue’s “What Sold in 2022” article and look at home many buyers name drop Dior as a top vendor for their stores.

What Sold in 2022: The Year of Valentino Pink, Rick Owens, Tote Bags, the ’90s and Barely There Dressing.

 

[PierreGotha]

I'm not really surprised if MGC is selling well till to this day. She and her team are good at merchandising as well. The products they design are more appealing on display at stores or pop ups, than being onbody at a show or look book. Making her Dior a Cat Nip towards the Nouveau Riche who are more inclined to shop in-store.

 

[vogue28]

The live presentation of the show is about to start on location in Mumbai, India:

 

[plentyofhorns]

constantly thinking about this quote from a buyer in the Vogue end of year “most popular” article:

“Dior has been the hottest label for us. Phenomenal. Absolutely phenomenal. Maria Grazia Chiuri’s shows are so feminine and beautiful, it can be cool or casual, and what she does is beautifully made. She really designs for women. Her accessories have also been phenomenal: You still want her tote over everyone else’s tote. It is a powerhouse brand here. Dior can do no wrong.”

‍

What Sold in 2022: The Year of Valentino Pink, Rick Owens, Tote Bags, the ’90s and Barely There Dressing.

 

[Lola701]

It’s funny but the show kinda elevated the whole thing. Probably her chicest collection ever.
And I can’t believe I’m saying that but for the first time in a longtime, I can see myself buying some of those clothes.

I wish she didn’t always feel the need to included branded merchandise but it’s good. It’s not the most extraordinary in terms of design but quite chic in a Antonio Marras kind of way. Chanel and Gaultier’s India are still my favorite but this is good in it own way.

‘I take this over Valentino all day!

 

[Lola701]

It’s funny but the show kinda elevated the whole thing. Probably her chicest collection ever.
And I can’t believe I’m saying that but for the first time in a longtime, I can see myself buying some of those clothes.

I wish she didn’t always feel the need to included branded merchandise but it’s good. It’s not the most extraordinary in terms of design but quite chic in a Antonio Marras kind of way. Chanel and Gaultier’s India are still my favorite but this is good in it own way.

‘I take this over Valentino all day!

 

[reese06]

Does anyone know the soundtrack?

 

[ozztara]

Definitely not the worst offering from MGC. Bad styling maybe.

I think of Gaultier, Galliano, McQueen - they didn’t need to show the clothes in India because they understood the function of fashion was to use the clothes to take the audience to those places and ‘feel’ the culture through them.

Not saying MGC is wrong for showing them in India though, just interesting.

Definitely don’t hate it.

 

[jeanclaude]

The set is beautiful, the indian models are very sophisticated and stylish...but the clothes could be from any other brand, from any other "inspiration"; and from any other season.