Christian Dior Pre-Fall 2023 Mumbai

this almost gives the word ‘literal’ a whole new meaning if MGC could give anything to any thing.

where’s the design?
those folded/ draped gowns are laughable. that Dioresque black (?) jacket/ dress looks enormous (I can’t even tell if the model is oversized or if it’s just terrible fitting… it’s probably both and I obviously only have issues with the latter). overall the fitting is bad.
those poor people at the Dior atelier…

everything else you can find in any Mumbai shopping centre and I’m not just saying because I’ve been there!

and that make up?!

go away.
 
This is so bad and dumpy , the models deserve better! Indian embroidery and fabrics are famous, where is that ? She really did not read the assignment did she? I saw the fabrics used in the draping of the saree Zendaya wore for the Ambani center opening , it was beautiful. MG's collections are as interesting as watching snails move across the grass. What a wasted opportunity for Dior.
 
Every Dior show is a very grand and glorious orchestra on a sinking Titanic.

In a normal corporate business the CEO and maybe the CD will the the first to be let go (see Gucci). But I am truly convinced Dior's customers are the dumbest of the dumbest or the worst of the worst. And that's the real achievement of the company: aggregating the dumbest customers (even dumber than the LV ones) and milking them the cash cow they are proud to be : moo ... moo... new book tote bags every two weeks...
 
I think it is quite good. The show is much more enjoyable than the lookbook.

I'm glad that she doesn't go full literal on the Indian inspiration because sometimes her inspiration can look a little bit like a caricature.
Her take on Indian culture was tastefully done, it's a bit safe but still very chic.
I can do without the tie-dye and the shocking pink section (because I'm already tired of that shade of pink being everywhere).

Overall, I'm surprised she did a good job.
 
Where is the spark of this brand? It's so tiring watching Dior present clothes and not fashion.
 
It’s funny but the show kinda elevated the whole thing. Probably her chicest collection ever.
And I can’t believe I’m saying that but for the first time in a longtime, I can see myself buying some of those clothes.

I wish she didn’t always feel the need to included branded merchandise but it’s good. It’s not the most extraordinary in terms of design but quite chic in a Antonio Marras kind of way. Chanel and Gaultier’s India are still my favorite but this is good in it own way.

‘I take this over Valentino all day!

Again, I agree 100%.
 
Definitely not the worst offering from MGC. Bad styling maybe.

I think of Gaultier, Galliano, McQueen - they didn’t need to show the clothes in India because they understood the function of fashion was to use the clothes to take the audience to those places and ‘feel’ the culture through them.

Not saying MGC is wrong for showing them in India though, just interesting.

Definitely don’t hate it.

The big difference between those guys and Chiuri is that they were using India as a theme in, to be honest, a very hackneyed and cliché way for a Western customer. This, however, is an India-inspired collection designed for an Indian customer. And that is why it was shown in India.

Dior recognizes that India is a growing luxury market and it is laying down roots and ramping up its marketing.
 
The big difference between those guys and Chiuri is that they were using India as a theme in, to be honest, a very hackneyed and cliché way for a Western customer. This, however, is an India-inspired collection designed for an Indian customer. And that is why it was shown in India.

Dior recognizes that India is a growing luxury market and it is laying down roots and ramping up its marketing.

I understand that, and that makes more sense. Thank you for explaining.

I just think it is difficult for me to see genuine sincerity in such a corporately governed art form. Yes, I agree that the collections I referenced were sometimes OTT and border-lining on stereotypes, but in a strange way that felt weirdly more authentic from the designer’s pov. It was how they interpreted the culture, even if it was from a slightly misguided lens.

In MGC’s case, she (to me atleast) epitomises the safe business driven form that her collections take. So it is personally difficult for me to see “oh they are making clothes for Indian customers” as a symbol of their love, gratitude and genuine appreciation for Indian people and culture, it’s more about expanding a customer base. I’m not totally mad at that, it is a business and I’m glad its broadening it’s customer base but for me, whose interaction with fashion has largely been based on the artistic rather than commercial intention, it stops me from enjoying the clothes as much.

With all that being said, I’m glad Indian craftsmanship is getting more acknowledgement from Western fashion media with this collection, it’s not enough on it’s own imo, and some of it is… Questionable… (Yes, Suzy Menkes.) But I suppose it’s a start at least.

And again this is personal, not everyone will interact with the industry the same way :smile:
 
While I still don't like Maria's work as a whole for Dior, I feel that this along with her Spring'22 have been her best work so far.

She seems to do far better when she just does nice clothes, rather trying to be the romantic storytelling intellectual like in her pre-pandemic years.
 
The big difference between those guys and Chiuri is that they were using India as a theme in, to be honest, a very hackneyed and cliché way for a Western customer. This, however, is an India-inspired collection designed for an Indian customer. And that is why it was shown in India.

Dior recognizes that India is a growing luxury market and it is laying down roots and ramping up its marketing.
Galliano and McQueen weren’t particularly targeting an Indian customer at the time but Gaultier for Hermes for example was, first for an international customer but also at the time when they dedicated a whole year of projects celebrating India for the opening of their store there if i remember well. It was in 2008…
Obviously Chanel was Chanel but with Indian touch for the international market even if Karl knew how to appeal to those « emerging markets ».

‘But more than that and that supposed vision of MGC designing for an Indian market, I simply just think that this is in line with her philosophy as a designer.

She is corporate indeed and she understand the needs of corporatism. Those needs are in logos and branded stuff but it’s safe to say that her design philosophy is very much into simple, practical and well made clothes in a very Italian and down to earth way. In a way she is similar to Frida Giannini more than to Virginie as people like to link them…

‘The real difference between the three is that MGC understand luxury maybe in the purest aspect because she touched Couture. The best embroideries in this collection are in the coats and the best looks are the non-embellished ones.

This is in line with her previous destinations collections. I don’t think the Marrakech collection was necessarily meant for the Maghrébine woman or the Middle East or that her Spanish collection necessarily spoke to a Latin customer.

‘For me it’s hard to connect to her work because it’s just clothes. I need more. Fashion is much more than that. And it’s weird because out of all the designers who have been at Dior, she is the only one who makes real, relatable clothes for the most part. Galliano excited us and made us dream but it was really about a special piece for a special occasion or really a statement. Even when he started doing more conservative stuff, it had a very formal pov. I hated Raf’s work but my favorite Dior bag, bad suit and pair of shoes are from his era…But still very formal.

‘With MGC, you can wear Dior at work, while travelling or hanging out and even at night. And it’s instant. The coat you see on the runway is the one you get to the boutique. You want that you buy that. It’s practical in a way that even American Sportswear ain’t. This is better than Michael Kors will ever be.

A different range of women can wear those clothes contrary to what people think. It’s less vulgar in terms of logos compared to Virginie’s Chanel….But it doesn’t feed us in terms of FASHION and in a way it’s sad.

‘Armani and Ralph Lauren can be boring but because it’s supported by a kind of mythology, it takes you somewhere.
 

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