Christian Dior S/S 2026 Paris

[Cocteau Stone]

^ they even had a year of interim collections after Raf as well so make that 5-6 directors in that time (from memory it was a duo taking care of the design team before MGC came in). In the grand scheme of things that’s a lot of change and shifting of the Dior look.

 

[Lola701]

I'm not sure how things work in France, but in the US, all these are arranged with commercial terms...

It’s not the case in France.
And while Arnault may own some magazines that have covered fashion, the same magazines are still talking about Chanel.

 

[Lola701]

The lack of risk on LVMH's side is one problem, but isn't Chanel just more culturally important than Dior? It's also the fact that Blazy's tenure marks a new era for the brand. The whole moment just felt more special because of the circumstances. Was it even possible for Dior to do anything that could compete with it?

They are both very important but it’s also true that Chanel due to her story, the presence of Karl (mind you there wasn’t a year since I was born that I didn’t see Karl on TV and he was already appearing on shows in the 70’s with Sonia Rykiel) has added more cultural relevancy to Chanel. Karl was friend with Mme Chirac so there was always that random thing where Karl would appear on rather « serious subjects ».

Dior is maybe less interesting in terms of story telling and the collection wasn’t really « a moment » either. Dior is linked to a scandal regarding the Minister of culture Rachida Dati (her love for Dior has cost her career at some point) so Dior in French media is always linked to this kind of story. The current mayor of Paris is in a huge controversy right now because she bought 2 Dior dresses lol.

What was talked about concerning JWA’s debut: seeing Brigitte Macron and Carla Bruni laugh at the show 1 week after Sarkozy was sentenced. But nobody talked about the collection.

Even Anthony Vaccarello did some press after the success of his show.

 

[GRCF]

I hope none of you are blind and can read it, but at least most people agree that the women’s wear collection was not good, describing it as “challenging” is probably the first time Lauren has actually made an astute observation.

He has less than 6 months before he can improve and offer us a better story in March. I hope Bernard at least was direct and unforgiving in his feedback, I’m sure he doesn’t pull any punches. Delphine seems more diplomatic, which might work if she didn’t need to steer this ship around fast.

Sorry for the screenshot!

 

[fruitdots]

View attachment 1422439
I hope none of you are blind and can read it, but at least most people agree that the women’s wear collection was not good, describing it as “challenging” is probably the first time Lauren has actually made an astute observation.

He has less than 6 months before he can improve and offer us a better story in March. I hope Bernard at least was direct and unforgiving in his feedback, I’m sure he doesn’t pull any punches. Delphine seems more diplomatic, which might work if she didn’t need to steer this ship around fast.

Sorry for the screenshot!

This take seems somewhat off the mark to me, or there are at least some conflicting/unresolved points. Why, for example, is it assumed that a "transformative collection" and a "thinkpiece" are mutually exclusive? And why are the opposing poles being presented—let's call them commercial and intellectual—being presented as constitutively antinomic? If we want to call JWA "an ad man at heart" (I'd disagree, though he's undeniably good on that front), how does that fit with the intellectuality being dismissed here as "challenging[?]" Is it not the case that Loewe and JWA succeeded precisely because he has the capacity to channel intellectuality (the "challenging") into commerce?

Perhaps the stronger claim to be made, which I think I'd sign onto, is that the productive contradiction at the heart of his success was less successful and more contradictory here. You can see the intellectual and the commercial fighting it out, while that antagonism was, more often than not, successfully bridged in the directionality of his Loewe.

 

[tourbillions]

I hope none of you are blind and can read it

this was uncalled for lol unnecessary hostility