I think this collection made me finally realize what is wrong with his brand:
He doesn’t offer a “silhouette” anymore. He only provides a seasonal print/graphic and a “treatment” (here it being bringing back the gel patches). But at this point it’s just decorative. There’s not substance or conviction. Furthermore, in his early days, a collection would be focused around one gimmick (and I don’t mean that word in a negative way) - it was gingham one season, it was paillettes another, it was flocked velvet, it was neon lace, it was shredded denim, etc. etc. Focused.
But here you’ve got a sexy dress, then next you have a very conservative dress, then you have a tailored suit, then you have an oversized sweatshirt, you’ve got ostrich feathers, you have gel patches,
you have galaxy prints, etc. etc. It’s way too much.
It feels chaotic and non-authoritative.
He always has good ideas, but he’s been losing the plot the last few years and I think I finally can put my finger on what’s gone wrong. That lack of a decisive silhouette and the inclusion of too many gimmicks really is a problem.