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The tailoring is sublime. Cut with such precision the avant-garde flourishes work.
That jacquard blazer layered beneath a cropped khaki green jacket captures the essence CDG. the genie pants are slightly more harmonious in their execution. That blue-green jacket is incredible with its structure and lightness. I also like the diagonal shirts. The cropped double-breasted jacket is another triumph of proportion.
However. The jacket with the buttons that connect to a waistcoat. the piece with tie-dye insets, followed by the one featuring florals at the waist. The double-breasted waistcoat with its cavernous pocket evokes Kim Jones. These were too much.
When it works it's absolutely exquisite men's clothing that really has no comparison.
This is one of the better Homme Plus collections in some years. Some of the deconstruction and collage tailoring feels interesting, very desirable.
What bothers me is that the underlying sensibility remains very much the same. To be honest, it's a little stagnant. It would be really nice if they would move things forward, try something radically new, or even return to 80s/90s Homme Plus. I think they would attract an entirely new customer.
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