Comme des Garçons Homme Plus S/S 2023 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[KoV]

Clownery - and not just the masks. I hate most of this.

 

[eugenius]

I'm more interested in Erdem's twin brother in the background.

I'm sure this will look different when it hits the salesfloor, but w/ this brand, I don't really care to find out how.

 

[helmutnotdead]

I freaking love Rei with all my heart but it’s time to retire girl.

 

[YohjiAddict]

A very nice comeback to the Paris scene, I love the period costume vibe of the silhouettes and the creepy circus vibes.

 

[jeanclaude]

I like the cut of this jacket/tunic hybrid:

It´s the only interesting thing here. The rest is just your standard CDG antics.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I freaking love Rei with all my heart but it’s time to retire girl.

This is definitely one of the better Homme Plus collections in recent seasons but it feels like she's doing these on autopilot and the formula has run out of freshness.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

I like over half of this, but the pieces with the weird swing in them (and some stiff horsehair braid) and the shaped inserts look more like trying to make a mistake work in their favour rather than starting over. The masks are delightfully frightening at first glance too.

I'm a sucker for some obscure Medieval/court jester/harlequin qualities so I'm honestly not that mad at this. Plus, even if this isn't Rei's best, it still absolutely thwarts Thom Browne.

 

[runner]

maybe the reason this looks somewhat like the undercover of CdG or a bit like rei kawakubo for sacai is not because she has been overtaken by them. but because the past has been modified by the present. readjustment of the relations between the old and the new.
the consciousness of history has transformed itself from a liberation, an opening of doors, blessed enlightenment, into an almost insupportable burden of self-consciousness. It’s impossible for the artist to write a word (or render an image or make a gesture) that doesn’t remind him of something.
As Nietzsche said: “Our pre-eminence: we live in the age of comparison, we can verify as has never been verified before.” Therefore, “we enjoy differently, we suffer differently: our instinctive activity is to compare an unheard number of things.” - susan sontag
if I was able to cast away the activity, I could be overwhelmed by this jacket for example.




fashionsnap

 

[Marc10]

Love the play on proportions with those shorts that always look like big skirts. The rest is a bit generic CdG but still appealing to me.