rewatching his old collections for givenchy and i just have to say that julien macdonald received an egregiously unwarranted amount of hate. this designer's tenure at givenchy wasn't anywhere near as bad as people claim it was, and i will die on this hill. hold some of his shows in the fashion weeks of 2024 and they would rightly leave the remaining propositions in the dust. he was maligned from the start!
Not really. It was beyond mediocre for its time. You need to put everything into context and judge it based on what was happening simultaneously, resources, competitors, etc., instead of trying to extract it out of a timeline and plug it into almost a different industry and reevaluate it based on that. It's like taking something like Luar F/W 2024 and plugging it into Athens Fashion Week and thinking criticism was unwarrented. The bar varies by time and location, and sadly for Julien, the bar was really high when he was at Givenchy. He could be seen as fortunate enough to have been given the opportunity of a lifetime with abundant resources... or a fool who enjoyed a unique time in fashion and couldn't see it and decided to go on autopilot, churn out whatever and waste it. Or both.
Julien Macdonald, Menichetti, even Lindsay Lohan, their collections would leave 'the remaining 2024 propositions in the dust' and unfortunately that doesn't mean they weren't bad and even atrocious at the time they were made, it only demonstrates how fashion's a s*ithole right now.
how has the fashion world not gotten absolutely bored with all of these built-for-p*rn bodies and faces.
I feel like you answered your own question. 😆🫢
I'm going to shamelessly recycle my own post from October of last year because.. too ill to type it all over again but there really seems to be an intentional effort to overlook the dynamics of good ol' capitalism, either because it's too much to grasp or because the complexity of a conglomerate requires extra work or because, by not doing so, you can comfortably stand firm on an archaic mentality, or maybe naïveté and delusion just reigns, but no, when a company has exploded into a monopolistic conglomerate and has no interest in being confined to its original small region but makes gigantic efforts to be global, its format should be global, simple as that. Its market and targeted demographic have changed when it becomes or is acquired by a transnational company whose goal is to profit and in the process, decimate anything that remotely resembles and poses a thread to that label by aggressively taking over the market in freakin’ Nicaragua, in Almaty, in Chongqing, in every corner of the world they can squeeze themselves into. The regional demographic this was confined to is a thing of the past the moment you push this internationally and similarly, the language and dynamics within the company have already changed so why on earth would you still use, say, only Frisians to advertise in Paraguay? lol, or be like ‘
oh yeah our founder was a local so we can only use locals’.. is the brand local? not anymore. A business needs to be judged in present time, not for what it used to be. I don't want to trigger European villagers' buttons but.. go American, learn how to adapt your product instead of being like '
yeeeess we have the second richest man in the world, but please make sure this still looks local 😩'.. which one do you want? it's like asking Pepsi to continue its pharmacy format and only feature Swiss models because they were founded in some town in North Carolina with a large Swiss population. They haven't been a North Carolina-only company in
years, and they can't afford to be one. And that's a drink, it's far trickier when you're pushing products relating to appearance and class.