Dario Vitale - Designer

[jeanclaude]

These 3 people were "models" in 1981???? OMG!! A mannequin would have looked way better!

alamy.com

 

[LMV]

i will never get over the fact we didn't get to witness how gianni would've evolved by the new millenium

 

[tricotineacetat]

They are not bad. For me they sometimes have a hard time embracing frivolity and the light spirit that comes with it.
I don’t know if it’s Belgian or specific to a certain school of design.

At one point I adore it. In the 2000’s that vision was great. It’s timeless in a way but today I think it’s less relevant.

The great thing about Pieter is only that he works with a Photographer that injects a certain sensuality and lightness in his work.

Raf at Prada is a lost cause because everybody is taking themselves quite seriously there in a way.

The clothes under Raf Simons at Jil Sander were terrific, with a subtle sensuality and just the right balance between modernity and timelessness - Then again, we know at this point what a difference it makes to have Patrick van Ommeslaeghe as director of womenswear there, compared to Matthieu Blazy later on at Calvin Klein; it was very clear to me why I didn't like it, at all…

 

[Lola701]

The clothes under Raf Simons at Jil Sander were terrific, with a subtle sensuality and just the right balance between modernity and timelessness - Then again, we know at this point what a difference it makes to have Patrick van Ommeslaeghe as director of womenswear there, compared to Matthieu Blazy later on at Calvin Klein; it was very clear to me why I didn't like it, at all…

yes those 4 years 2008/2012 (wasn’t that impressed in the early days) of Raf at JS were fabulous. Even the Navy line was great.
I didn’t liked his Dior. Fabulous Bar suits and accessories but it wasn’t great.
I liked his Calvin on his own but hated it at Calvin. It was just too Helmut Lang coded (down to the presentation).

It’s almost ironic to realize that today I still don’t like Pieter’s work at Alaia after not having liked his influence on the womenswear at Dior.
I totally dislike whatever Raf is doing at Prada.

I’m quite much at ease with Matthieu. It’s not a love story yet. His BV was good and I know what I like and dislike about his work but out of the three, he is the one who seems to have a little bit more frivolity in his work.
I don’t dislike his clothes.

I’m so curious to know why Patrick didn’t followed Raf at Dior. Because it’s clearly the 1950’s inspired collections series that got him the job. For Patrick to be an architect of his time there, logic meant for him to go to Dior too…

 

[Tchi]

These 3 people were "models" in 1981???? OMG!! A mannequin would have looked way better!

alamy.com

Love this

 

[GivenchyHomme]

These 3 people were "models" in 1981???? OMG!! A mannequin would have looked way better!

alamy.com

That's how most nepo babies look before plastic surgery.

 

[yslforever]

Versace was never the place for "sharp and focused" either.

What excuse me lol !!!!!!!!!! no way you say this makes me cry in 2025:

Gianni was going in a new sharp and focused direction before his death its well documented and written of and he always had moments going more clean even classic and then maximal extroverted since 80´s.

We need to see beyond the average mainstream idea of what Gianni Versace was he did many things and it's not all dumb blond caricature.

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Those are good looks, I would say tailored and streamlined, you can already see the Gucci by Tom Ford jnfluence.
But imho Versace was not searched after for their sharp and focused looks. People had Calvin Klein and Donna Karan for that.

 

[yslforever]

These 3 people were "models" in 1981???? OMG!! A mannequin would have looked way better!

alamy.com

Hum the male model is a a model, but it’s pretty obvious the two women are Gianni workers who presumably tailored and assembled the suit…
Or I am being wooshed ?

 

[Lola701]

Hum the male model is a a model, but it’s pretty obvious the two women are Gianni workers who presumably tailored and assembled the suit…
Or I am being wooshed ?

Probably. Avedon at that time was already working with a set of supermodels so what you say makes sense.

 

[Kanzai]

Bro is called "The Kings of Color" for a reason. I mean you don't go to this brand for something sharp and focused yet sexy à la Tom Ford or his godfathers Halston/Yves Saint Laurent.

US Vogue September 1990
"The Kings of Color: Versace"
Photographer: Irving Penn, Patrick Demarchelier
Fashion Editor: Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele
Hair: Sam McKnight
Makeup: Mary Greenwell
Featuring: Gianni Versace, Naomi Campbell



Vogue via justaguy

Vanity Fair October 1996
"Emperors of Style" by Laura Jacobs
Photographer: Helmut Newton
Featuring: Gianni Versace, Gianfranco Ferrè, Yves Saint Laurent


"
Vanity Fair via justaguy

US Vogue September 1997
"Gianni Versace 1946-1997: A Remembrance" by Anna Wintour
Photographer: Irving Penn


Vogue via justaguy

Vanity Fair September 1988
"Versace's Rock 'n' Roll Place" by Ben Brantley
Photographer: Evelyn Hofer
Featuring: Gianni Versace






Vanity Fair via justaguy

 

[PDFSD]

Those are good looks, I would say tailored and streamlined, you can already see the Gucci by Tom Ford influence.
But imho Versace was not searched after for their sharp and focused looks. People had Calvin Klein and Donna Karan for that.

Disagree 100000000%,
Its just a perception of what hollywood made of Versace, and Donatella played into it so it's burnt into the collective cliche of what you can find at the brand as main themes. even gianni picture of himself next to donatella you can see he was more sharp suited and she was more extravagant.

To me is actually the opposite the exuberance was the cherry on the cake and the base was about cut/tailored and sleek/streamlined and sexy yes but tailored and stream line does not mean being a nun i am sure you will agree.
Also collections pre date Tom Fords Gucci like these:

1980


1983

FW 1984

1989


Versace 1990


FW1991

1991

1993
.
SS 1993
.
SS 1993


Gucci ss 95


SS1995 haute couture


Gucci FW1995 TOM FORD big moment started


FW 1995


SS1996


You can see Gianni was doing his thing regardless before and the evolution continued till his death of constant refining the minimal and maximal duality in his work the cut & tailoring rigor was always the foundation

Why i LOVE Yves and Hedi and Tom and Gianni and Azedine, they all have the cut and tailoring overall sharpness as foundation no matter how sexy/tacky or glamorous or rock or chic or Romantic the woman is.

 

[PDFSD]

Hum the male model is a a model, but it’s pretty obvious the two women are Gianni workers who presumably tailored and assembled the suit…
Or I am being wooshed ?

Honestly i think the concept is that Tailor ladies doing his suit because they are wearing uniform and holding part of the suit as in made by hand ....
so you proved the point even more that gianni foundation lies in the cut and tailoring :-)

 

[PDFSD]

Bro is called "The Kings of Color" for a reason. I mean you don't go to this brand for something sharp and focused yet sexy à la Tom Ford or his godfathers Halston/Yves Saint Laurent.

You clearly never shopped there those years early 90´s when he was alive my sister went to high school prom in Versace it was simple black dress no medusa no print ...its like saying armani is only soccer players style and emporio armani logo underwear .....or Hermes is only wag wives ala Victoria Beckham (t*ts on a stick) while you have very old money clients buying hermes bags for years before and after.

Its all depends on your environment and taste what you get out of most brands same for Versace those years.

We should know by now what press decided to highlight then and now is what makes the most noise. Rage bate or Viral content was not invented today hun!!!!

 

[Kanzai]

^ It’s easier for me to dismiss Versace as someone who adores Armani and designers who focus on simplicity. I’ll never buy Versace, but that doesn’t mean I overlook his legacy. But come one, let’s be honest, Versace was never a pioneer of “sharp and focused” fashion, literally no designer takes note from Gianni regarding those aspects. You have Halston, Yves that are the biggest inspirations for Tom Ford.

 

[PDFSD]

^ It’s easier for me to dismiss Versace as someone who adores Armani and designers who focus on simplicity. I’ll never buy Versace, but that doesn’t mean I overlook his legacy. But come one, let’s be honest, Versace was never a pioneer of “sharp and focused” fashion, literally no designer takes note from Gianni regarding those aspects. You have Halston, Yves that are the biggest inspirations for Tom Ford.

Armani simplicity is as much of a brand myth as is versace baroque coco.

I deal in facts as much as they are available, feelings of dismissal are great for kitchen table talk but in a discussion one must be ready to know facts that are contrary to our feelings on that subject.

the pictures speak for themselves and vintage gianni versace you can see the construction i cant bring you to the lake and drink the water also for you that you have to do for yourself. (that research you have to see & do for yourself)

I don't know in how many designer collection meetings you have been but my experience is different in regards to Gianni Verage influence on cut and technique and that goes beyond chainmail with lace or prints.

I did not speak of inspiration to TOM i replied that TOM´s influence on Verace was not a string argument as Giaani was doing clean cuts years before since starting his brand in the 80´s

The conversation is not about who influenced Tom Ford

Armani (young and old) did many tacky things and very loud things i am not going to show all the examples you're the expert any ways
Case in point my love:

Armani ss 1995


versace ss 1995


See why feeling don't matter when you have facts lol

Sympathy for mister Armani does not mean one is blind to the facts that the brand is loved for more what it can be than what it was or is right now.
Same can be said for Gianni to discret his work as x in order to elevate another when clearly the facts show he was more modern at times than the myth of Armani per example.

To truly compare one must know the full scope of both brand creators well, not just your favorite one.

 

[Lola701]

Gianni was very graphic, much much more graphic than Donatella.
Tailoring was a big part of Gianni’s collections. Sometimes when we think about his collections, we often forget that there were almost +80 looks and for the most part, it’s tailoring, leather and oroton.

Gianni was really the ying and the yang. A part that is very classic, very Couture and the other part that is crazy, sexy, pushing the limits of taste. A bit like Mugler even if Gianni is IMO more timeless than Mugler.

Donatella however was the queen of silk jersey dresses, chiffon dresses. Tailoring really took a step back when she took over. And her best moments of tailoring were when she referenced Gianni.

Gianni BOW is almost like Karl’s for me. I hate those collections people loves from the 90’s. They are great on their own but you can’t reduce the essence of their work at that period to two collections in 1992 and 1 collection in 1995. The peak of Versace in 1995 is for me the Haute Couture with plastic and oroton, no buttons, the soundtrack by Prince and the whole 1960’s whole mods/Barbarella feel.

 

[PDFSD]

Exactly the ying and the yang in his brand and with his sister.

You could mistaken Giorgio for Gianni next to Donnatella lol
Honestly we the wider public deserved the crappy versace we got these years i don't blame Donatella for running with the cliche´s (evn if she might be anyways) because people like simplistic ideas about people and brands.
We cry for dept but chose the surface.

 

[Kanzai]

Armani simplicity is as much of a brand myth as is versace baroque coco.

I deal in facts as much as they are available, feelings of dismissal are great for kitchen table talk but in a discussion one must be ready to know facts that are contrary to our feelings on that subject.

the pictures speak for themselves and vintage gianni versace you can see the construction i cant bring you to the lake and drink the water also for you that you have to do for yourself. (that research you have to see & do for yourself)

I don't know in how many designer collection meetings you have been but my experience is different in regards to Gianni Verage influence on cut and technique and that goes beyond chainmail with lace or prints.

I did not speak of inspiration to TOM i replied that TOM´s influence on Verace was not a string argument as Giaani was doing clean cuts years before since starting his brand in the 80´s

The conversation is not about who influenced Tom Ford

Armani (young and old) did many tacky things and very loud things i am not going to show all the examples you're the expert any ways
Case in point my love:

Armani ss 1995
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versace ss 1995
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See why feeling don't matter when you have facts lol

Sympathy for mister Armani does not mean one is blind to the facts that the brand is loved for more what it can be than what it was or is right now.
Same can be said for Gianni to discret his work as x in order to elevate another when clearly the facts show he was more modern at times than the myth of Armani per example.

To truly compare one must know the full scope of both brand creators well, not just your favorite one.

I mean experimenting and changing styles in design isn't the end of the world or anything special, as long as the designer has a strong enough code and POV to still make something look like their own. Armani may be inspired by Japanese aesthetics even back in late 70s, from artists like Utamuro, Kurosawa or Miyake but that doesn't make him a maximalist like Kansai Yamamoto or Kenzo. Gianni, Karl or even John Galliano all had their high&low phases, but even when they made things look simpler it still didn't change their signature aesthetic. The point is Gianni didn’t influence the next generations of designers by the clothes in the pics you commented.

My mistake was joining this thread, it's Dario Vitale and not even someone better, another landfill for some bizarre debates after that Ancora thread went hiatus.

 

[PDFSD]

I mean experimenting and changing styles in design isn't the end of the world or anything special, as long as the designer has a strong enough code and POV to still make something look like their own. Armani may be inspired by Japanese aesthetics even back in late 70s, from artists like Utamuro, Kurosawa or Miyake but that doesn't make him a maximalist like Kansai Yamamoto or Kenzo. Gianni, Karl or even John Galliano all had their high&low phases, but even when they made things look simpler it still didn't change their signature aesthetic. The point is Gianni didn’t influence the next generations of designers by the clothes in the pics you commented.

My mistake was joining this thread, it's Dario Vitale and not even someone better, another landfill for some bizarre debates after that Ancora thread went hiatus.

Your moving the goalpost of discussion that's why the debate feels bizarre to you.

ref. versace is not always so cliche i give you a hint of NG BAlenciaga last collection that ref. 2 collection and ads of versace from from the 90´s

ADV shot buy same Meisel that shot Versace and the Balenciaga version with a collection that had part of Versace in it as well.

no medusa or king of color insight etc 🤭🤷‍♀️

 

[carla56]

I'm rooting for Dario, but if they want to continue with Donatella's sleek and high glamour style they could hire Ludovic...look at the video of the Zara collaboration that came out today...