I had a mixed reaction when viewing this...
First I thought: I hope he's not letting the early praise go to this head, because this isn't as strong as his other collections.
Then I thought: Dammit, I freaking love that he is not dumbing down his stuff (especially considering that this is safe-as-hell NYFW!) and is continuing to explore construction techniques, shapes, and the type of distinct patterns, that got him that early praise to begin with.
So, to conclude, I love it and he can keep on keepin' on as far as I'm concerned.