Demi-Couture

[Crying Diamonds]

A term often used to describe the critically acclaimed work of Olivier Theyskens' work at Rochas, this thread is dedicated to the pret-a-porter that has the fine qualities and hyper-expensive price-tag of Haute Couture.


Let's start off with a bit of Ghesquiere

Balenciaga
A/W 09-10

Sasha Pivovarova wears embroidered silk dress, £42,900 ... Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquiere

Balenciaga
S/S 09

Pleated crinoline dress embroidered with fringes of transparent pearls £63,165, Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquiere.

style.com
Scanned by member: ChanelNumber5 from Vogue U.K. August 2009
lilydonaldson.com

 

[Crimson C.C]

haha awesome, lets get some price tags!

 

[gius]

isn't it demi couture when a piece from a pret-a-porter collection can also be custom-made? (ie. to a person's measurements)



i think for balenciaga s/s '09 it was pret-a-porter but the fabrics could only be made by hand.. so it became couture.

 

[Lackuiew]

the New York Times

A salesman at Alexander McQueen knew that the price of a custom-made cape worn by the actress Emma Watson in Bazaar was $60,000 and that it could be made in other colors.

scanned by sister-d @ bwgreyscale
style

 

[jennifer~]

Rodarte perhaps fit the profile, and this text gives some guidelines as well...

Rodarte
Dress
White organza, silk tulle, and feathers
Spring 2007, USA
The Museum at FIT, 2007.13.1, Museum purchase


Kate and Laura Mulleavy of the design team Rodarte are known for extravagant, hand-crafted designs. Their work has been described as “demi-couture,” because it operates at an intermediary level between the artistry of couture and the accessibility of ready-to-wear.

fitnyc.edu

 

[jennifer~]

And Zang Toi is, apparently, another demi-couture designer...

Demi-Couture On The Rise
New fashion movement, ‘demi-couture,’ makes the richly detailed look of haute couture affordable.
By: Mari Davis
Photo below: A demi-couture gown from Zang Toi Fall 2004 collection. Photo by: Javier Mateo

DALLAS, May 20, 2004/ FW/ --- What exactly is demi-couture?

To understand this new term, we have to define the meaning of couture, haute couture, and ready-to-wear or prêt-á-porter first.

“Couture” as defined by the Merriam-Webster dictionary is “the business of designing, making, and selling fashionable custom-made women's clothing.” It came from the French word, “cousture,” which means “sewing.”

“Haute couture” literally means “high sewing” and its present day definition is “the houses or designers that create exclusive and often trend-setting fashions for women.”

“Ready-to-wear” means off-the rack, ready-made clothes, and prêt-á-porter is a literal translation of ready-to-wear in French.

And “demi” means “half,” so “demi-couture” literally means “half-couture” or if you want a longer meaning, “half-custom-made women’s clothing.”

With that in mind, it makes sense why demi-couture is still classified under ready-to-wear in the fashion business.

The best way to explain demi-couture is to give examples, and New York, which is best known for its ready-to-wear designers, is a great place to find them.

Zang Toi, renowned for his exuberant designs that are richly textured and always bordering on couture thinks of himself as a ready-to-wear designer. Yet season after season, his gowns are always seen on the Hollywood red carpet, a testament to his artistry.

And he does not scrimp either when it comes to his creations. The pink & lacquer red hand loomed knit gowns with hand embroidered & beaded flowers & butterflies (see photo above) from his Fall 2004 collection took 3 artisans a total of 3 weeks just for the embroidery & beading. It took another 3 days for another artisan to knit the gown on a hand loomed machine and another day for his studio to do the finishing touches for each of the gowns.

The gown is still considered ‘ready-to-wear’ yet it took roughly a month to finish it. An haute couture gown takes approximately three months to create.

With the price of a Zang Toi demi-couture gown starting at $10,000, it is very affordable taking into account that it is hand beaded, hand embroidered and hand loomed. In comparison, haute couture gowns start at $80,000.

fashionwindows.com

 

[Scott]

but isn't there a difference between demi and semi? i mean when it has p-a-p approach wouldn't that be deemed semi whereas demi was more about the intrinsic rawness of handwork?

i'd consider labels like MMM,Gustavo Lins,Rodarte and the like demi.

 

[Street_a_Licious]

i generally would believe that McQueen pieces can be customized and custom made. idk, but something about his line just gives me that feeling.

meanwhile, Ghesquiere at Balenciaga seems to simply play with the most expensive techniques and fabrics. just for.... "fun's" sake.

 

[FashionPower]

Balenciaga FW08

Balenciaga by Nicholas Ghesquiere onyx-wool gabardine dress £ 3,475

style,and US Vogue(don't remember month/year) scan made by StrikingFashion

 

[ilaughead]

I think there's an article on demi-couture (specifically Olivier at Rochas) in Vogue US July 2006. I can't find it online, though.

 

[Street_a_Licious]

Balenciaga FW08

style,and US Vogue(don't remember month/year) scan made by StrikingFashion

tbh, that looks and is priced like RTW....

 

[gius]

yeah 3,000 is just P-A-P.. .


here are some others by balenciaga

leggings s/s '07

fall '08
hand painted latex jackets

showstudio.com | style.com

 

[Crying Diamonds]

I need some of those white Storm Trooper leggings.

 

[gius]

but isn't there a difference between demi and semi? i mean when it has p-a-p approach wouldn't that be deemed semi whereas demi was more about the intrinsic rawness of handwork?

i'd consider labels like MMM,Gustavo Lins,Rodarte and the like demi.

i haven't heard of 'semi' being used but i would agree that a design that can be made-to-measure or customized doesn't equal to calling it demi-couture.. (i read a few jackets by balenciaga could be ordered this way). there really has to be that aspect of the hand, and time...

if we look at Dries van Noten a lot of his past pieces have so much work done to it.. hand-painting and embroidery. but he outsources mainly, no? maybe it has to be a small atelier, the designer and his assistants. that's why it becomes so expensive

 

[Street_a_Licious]

hm? isn't 3000 "normal" for a runway P-A-P cocktail dress? especially from Balenciaga? a simple cashmere cardigan from Vuitton costs 1300 already....

 

[bbofbalenciaga]

As said in Vogue Spain, this coat from the fall 08 collection of YSL costs 41.000€.

 

[eternitygoddess]

Are we judging if outfits are demi-couture based solely on their price tag? Or is craftsmanship part of the process? What are the factors that separate a genuine couture piece from the masses of clothes?

A side note, I am getting sick of how the word "couture" is freely used when it pertains to fashion by the media.

 

[jennifer~]

i haven't heard of 'semi' being used (...)

Perhaps Scott has coined a new term; remember where it started, generations from now. I think the followers of this thread would find Holly Fulton's biography (and work, of course) interesting and helpful in defining this... missing link. She doesn't describe herself as a demi-couturière but I think she describes some of the processes, while maintaining a separation from the term that gives her more authenticity, ie., never trust the punk (for example) who calls himself such, before the label has been applied by others; then gripe about it.

Ethos, technique & inspiration

“The ethos of my work is to capture a couture finish and an attention to detail within ready to wear. I aim to re-interpret the traditions of handwork and the use of techniques within couture into contemporary materials and silhouettes to create strong, cohesive collections of womenswear and jewellery. The use of decorative surfaces is vital within my work and I am constantly endeavouring to create a challenging yet beautiful surface which pushes the boundaries of modern fashion.

My working technique begins with drawing extensively and working through my references with constant re-interpretation. I believe the sheer amount of work and processes involved in producing my work makes it slightly unique. I love the extra dimension working with different materials has brought to my design, from crystallised elements to electrical cables. The scope for future exploration of materials continually pushes me and my work.

I hope that my love of surface sets my designs apart. My shapes lend themselves to decoration and every stage of the process from the initial conception to the technical lay plans informs my designs. Always attracted to strong pieces in terms of design, I have a huge love of art deco and Bauhaus styles, cubist fashion and the geometry within all these genres and the re-interpretation of these into contemporary materials gives me huge inspiration. Surface decoration allows me scope to move forward in fashion. Through this I would hope my aesthetic differs from that of other designers.

My current signature style contains lots of geometric pattern lavished onto simply cut garments; big, luxurious, simple shapes with bold jewellery; bejewelled crystallised dresses and an eclectic mix of modern materials with a high end finish.”

© Holly Fulton 2009 | Credits

hollyfulton.com

 

[TomFordforGucci]

I think there's an article on demi-couture (specifically Olivier at Rochas) in Vogue US July 2006. I can't find it online, though.

That's exactly what I thought of when I read the title of this thread, wish we had the accompanying article.


herfamedgoodlooks

 

[Inaya]

hm? isn't 3000 "normal" for a runway P-A-P cocktail dress? especially from Balenciaga? a simple cashmere cardigan from Vuitton costs 1300 already....

sadly, this is indeed true. it's not unusual at all for a brand like Balenciaga's p-a-p prices to be upwards of $2k per garment.