Olivier Theyskens Officially Parts Ways with Nina Ricci

[Mutterlein]

What you were mentioning regarding the three years Olivier was given at Rochas is simply not correctly researched - it's not the shareholder's impatience with the fashion branches' incapability to turn profits after three years, it's the fact that Rochas had been sold as part of a bigger acquisition package by Procter & Gamble, that is now owning all name rights to Rochas (perfume and licensing, which they eventually sold again to Gibo). They admitted that when they decided to close the fashion branch, they simply hadn't got any insight in the high end luxury goods business themselves and that they were looking to sell the name rights for the fashion branch to other potential investors.

Other than that, do let me know of ANY fashion house which operates on on an equal investment scale (having a team of employees in the creation to assist the designer, a commercial as well as press department, a flagship boutique in the posh 8th district in Paris, a big show production in the Tuileries tents,...) that has ever turned profit after 3 years. I don't quite believe you have proper insight on how it looks like financially in a lot of designer's companies, I can tell you safely though that there are quite a couple in the red now for quite some time, that are struggling especially now or that have secretely gotten shareholder's cash infusions by now in order to survive.

Perhaps it's a matter of product development. The are brands that DO make profit have a whole army of lines sold at every conceivable tier in the luxury market. They are all meticulously planned and expertly merchandised. Sadly they comprise mostly of keychains, logo bags, and crystal studded logo jewelry. (Dior, Chanel, Etc). They have the luxury of massive corporate support.

But I think certainly there's a niche out there for brands that are small and don't exactly have all the product lines and resources the big names do, take Anne Demeulemeester and Rick Owens, or Raf Simons. I mentioned it before, I think in this thread even, but they have managed to develop many different products each at different price points and that's been part of their success. They each have their signatures that customers can rely on and always identify. I you can't afford a $15,000 Palais Royal fur you can get a $200 razorback tee. I feel like Theyskens never bothered to make this happen with Nina Ricci (although he did with Rochas!). His vision was always too undefined and unappealing to translate into something simple like a t-shirt (remember those pieced t-shirts from spring 08 that were so tacky) or a cardigan.

But really, maybe he was just a bad fit for brand that never was and never will be that whimsical.

 

[FASHIONLOVA]

i think the problem with him is that he just didn t suck up to the big heads. and he s known to be stubborn so that just makes it difficult for him to please the big bosses.
why do u think galliano succeeds so much it s because he makes sure to please the boss otherwise he knows he ll be out of dior in no time.

anyway, i think his work was much better at rochas to begin with.
and if his own line didn t succeed that says a lot about his followers. are they truly real fans??!!

 

[tricotineacetat]

Perhaps it's a matter of product development. The are brands that DO make profit have a whole army of lines sold at every conceivable tier in the luxury market. They are all meticulously planned and expertly merchandised. Sadly they comprise mostly of keychains, logo bags, and crystal studded logo jewelry. (Dior, Chanel, Etc). They have the luxury of massive corporate support.

But I think certainly there's a niche out there for brands that are small and don't exactly have all the product lines and resources the big names do, take Anne Demeulemeester and Rick Owens, or Raf Simons. I mentioned it before, I think in this thread even, but they have managed to develop many different products each at different price points and that's been part of their success. They each have their signatures that customers can rely on and always identify. I you can't afford a $15,000 Palais Royal fur you can get a $200 razorback tee. I feel like Theyskens never bothered to make this happen with Nina Ricci (although he did with Rochas!). His vision was always too undefined and unappealing to translate into something simple like a t-shirt (remember those pieced t-shirts from spring 08 that were so tacky) or a cardigan.

But really, maybe he was just a bad fit for brand that never was and never will be that whimsical.

I agree with you completely regarding the comparison with people like Rick Owens, who I think achieved to make a stupendous ascend as an established Paris designer, while at the same time being able to maintain complete integrity of his vision. I also find it remarkable that his identity as a designer is just as much evident in the pieces you described - an enormously expensive fur coat as well as a humble washed cotton t-shirt would both be recognizably Rick Owens (and in most cases, equally desirable on the salesfloor).

I agree completely that Olivier's work at Nina Ricci was by far less directional and focussed as it was at Rochas, where you could recognize a precise trademark silhouette, mood and identity of a collection that would make people sit up and listen, but also ease the chance to eventually help to take that 'language' and apply it to other product groups.

 

[from: sophia]

From Ny Mag

Hint is reporting that ex–Nina Ricci–designer Olivier Theyskens is heading to Halston. The fashion community thought Ricci was foolish to force Theyskens out of his contract seven months early after his stunning fall 2009 collection. Rumors swirled that he'd relaunch his namesake label. That he'd come to the U.S. to helm an American house seemed perhaps the least likely next chapter of his career. After all, Halston is all about effortless dressing and minimalism; Theyskens sent twelve-inch heels down the fall 2009 Ricci runway.
But Halston could certainly use the touch of a French master. Though the label has been selling well, the revival Harvey Weinstein hoped for when he bought it in 2007 hasn't quite fruited. Marco Zanini stayed on as head designer for less than two seasons, to mixed reviews, and left the house almost a year ago. Halston presented spring and fall collections without a head designer. But every house needs one, and hiring one of the hottest designers of the moment would generate incredible buzz.
If the rumors are true, Olivier might have to move to New York, which would be amazing. Wherever he lands next is sure to be one of the hottest tickets of the season. And to have him showing here instead of Paris would be epic.

I dont get this at all this makes absolutely no sense Halston jersey and draping vs. Theyskens would = the worst fashion mess every. This must be a rumor and judging from the source it is. He should stick to what he does best and just do his own line it would be wonderful I am sure.

 

[Scott]

^i can't see it. i don't see it. cannot even imagine it. theyskens is all about rich,dramatic textures and shapes....halston was about clean lines and stark colours.

 

[XavierRaphael]

Halston-Theyskens=TOTAL OPPOSITES!

 

[dior_couture1245]

Oh please, god no.

 

[ilaughead]

I don't really think there's much truth behind this rumor. After all, Halston was reopened just a couple of seasons ago with a distinctly commercial point of view, and as we all have seen, Olivier just isn't cut out for that kind of a job.

As much pull Anna may have with various company heads, I hope Olivier's not desperate enough for a job that he'll just go anywhere.

 

[Spike413]

You know what happens when you try and force two magnets with the same polarity together?

Yeah. That's all I can honestly think of with regards to that rumor.

 

[thesiren]

i agree.

theyskens for halston would be a total bust.

 

[Crying Diamonds]

Theyskens at Rochas
Zanini at Halston
Zanini at Rochas
Theyskens at Halston?

 

[fashionista-ta]

To be honest, I've NEVER really understood why his clothes don't sell well. I mean, is price really the only reason Theyskens doesn't do well in retail?

Rochas, I can understand that things didn't sell so well, simply because for his first two years at the house, it was all eveningwear. But at Ricci? I'm still confused. Every show he produced for the house (with maybe the exception of SS 09) was mostly about daywear and individual pieces (jackets, coats, blouses, trousers, etc), with a few evening gowns closing the show. What is so unsellable about that?

IMO as a potential customer, the price point was quite high (even for designer), and the pieces I saw available to actually buy were not that appealing. If the price tag knocks your socks off, the item better knock 'em off too, and it wasn't happening for me.

 

[Scott]

there are substantial rumours floating round paris that olivier is being hired as creative director at elsa schiaparelli. we'll see in the coming days and weeks but some are pretty sure. could partly be to blame for the nina ricci position being cut so prematurely as he already had an interest there. i dunno what to think i mean he does have that sort of boldness in his history but there was a kitsch/humour element i'm not sure olivier bodes as strongly. i mean apart from that circulatory catsuit and that collection he did that looked like doll clothes there isn't a lot in that respect. but he does offer that similar drama and elegance.

btw,not posting any kind of thread till it is confirmed.

 

[from: sophia]

^ I think he could work at Schiaparelli because he cut clothes in a complex manner like she did I think he can embody the surrealist aspect of Schiaparelli with things that he has done in the past like the dead bird collection and really the 12in shoes as well those do have a touch of surrealism with the pointless heels. I think if he is going to go work anywhere that is not his own line this is my favorite by far and I am sure that the Halston rumor was just a bad joke ( I know that I was the one who posted it but I thought I should report anynews that had a semi decent source)

 

[ad041715]

Such sad news....
His fall 09.10 collection (IMO) was his best.


I cannot imagine Olivier at Halston at all. But maybe, just maybe, he'd improve Halston's image.

 

[Scott]

i do agree that he possesses those surreal elements but i still think that there are links missing. i mean when i think of elsa's spirit living on in modern fashion,i see it in people like viktor & rolf,roksanda ilincic,basso & brooke,peter pilotto,katarzyna szczotarska,bernhard even margiela has those elements....you know that kind of whimsy and kitsch.

but i do think it's a house with a depth of history and legacy he can explore and experiment with A LOT more than nina ricci or rochas because elsa herself was that way. she was the original avant-garde,imo.

 

[from: sophia]

I know what you mean to be honest I just want him to do his own line I think he could be as creative as he wanted to be and would not need to follow any preset style. I just think if they are going to revive another house Schiaparelli would be amazing

 

[Spike413]

i do agree that he possesses those surreal elements but i still think that there are links missing. i mean when i think of elsa's spirit living on in modern fashion,i see it in people like viktor & rolf,roksanda ilincic,basso & brooke,peter pilotto,katarzyna szczotarska,bernhard even margiela has those elements....you know that kind of whimsy and kitsch.

but i do think it's a house with a depth of history and legacy he can explore and experiment with A LOT more than nina ricci or rochas because elsa herself was that way. she was the original avant-garde,imo.

I completely agree with you here. As much as I think that Olivier has the imagination, his S/S 02 collection with the trompe l'oeil shirt/corset dresses certainly comes to mind, the result is just very different from what Schiaparelli did.

As creative as Olivier is, I just don't think he has that tongue in cheek playfulness in him. He's not really that kind of designer.

 

[Mutterlein]

^ I think he could work at Schiaparelli because he cut clothes in a complex manner like she did I think he can embody the surrealist aspect of Schiaparelli with things that he has done in the past like the dead bird collection and really the 12in shoes as well those do have a touch of surrealism with the pointless heels. I think if he is going to go work anywhere that is not his own line this is my favorite by far and I am sure that the Halston rumor was just a bad joke ( I know that I was the one who posted it but I thought I should report anynews that had a semi decent source)

I totally agree. Theysken's aesthetic is quite surreal, especially what he had done on his own and what he created at Nina Ricci. Schiaparelli, as vivid humorous as she was, did have a dark streak that I think Theyskens could tap into easily. It would be a great fit.

But then, why bother reviving a dead name and not just establish his own? I suppose Schiaparelli's heritage would be easier to make a solid brand out of.

 

[kimair]

wwd / may 4, 2009

Halston is looking for a new creative director, and one name being bandied about for the gig is none other than Olivier Theyskens. According to sources, Vogue’s Anna Wintour is keen to find Theyskens, who recently exited Nina Ricci, a job in New York, and she is said to have been lobbying to get him installed at Halston. Over the past few months, the iconic brand has been putting its feelers out, and sources said it was at one point looking at Narciso Rodriguez and at London-based designer Marios Schwab to succeed Marco Zanini, who left the company last year after two seasons as creative director of the revived line. Halston executives said no decision has been made on a new creative director.