Altuzarra Designs for New York City Ballet
Following in the footsteps of Rodarte, J. Mendel and Valentino, fashion designer Joseph Altuzarra has designed costumes for a new ballet by choreographer Christopher Wheeldon. The costumes will be presented at the New York City Ballet’s spring gala, on Wednesday, May 8.
“I was thrilled and so excited,” said Mr. Altuzarra of his initial reaction when Mr. Wheeldon approached him last summer on Fire Island. “It’s an amazing opportunity to be able to expand my mind creatively beyond just my collections.”
Mr. Wheeldon will present two ballets for the gala: “Soirée Musicale,” with new costumes by Holly Hynes, and a pas de deux called “A Place for Us,” set to “Interlude” from André Previn’s “Sonata for Clarinet and Piano” and Leonard Bernstein’s “Sonata for Clarinet and Piano.” The pas de deux will feature principal dancers, Tiler Peck and Robert Fairchild, for whom Mr. Altuzarra has designed costumes.
“I was particularly interested in men’s dance costumes; its simplicity and how it accentuated and celebrated the dancers’ bodies,” said Mr. Altuzarra. He looked at old rehearsal photos, mainly of Baryshnikov and Nureyev. This inspired his ideas for Mr. Fairchild’s off-white costume with a draped tank top. For Ms. Peck, he designed a pale blue dress with a ruffled skirt and a low back.
Music also played a big part in the designing process. After listening to the pieces for the first time, Mr. Altuzarra said he understood the “sense of playfulness and intrinsic American-ness” of the ballet, which informed the qualities of his designs.
“He had done six or seven different sketches for the girl,” said Marc Happel, the company’s costume director. “He immediately put them down in front of me and asked what I thought was the best. He trusted me.”
Mr. Happel said it was satisfying to work with a designer who is “always willing to listen.” He recalled a time when the early sketches of Mr. Fairchild’s costume featured a low neckline that exposed the chest. “In the U.S., more so than Europe, men’s nipples are something we don’t expose, so I advised him to raise the neckline,” he said.
“It’s interesting working with designers,” said Mr. Happel. “I had some who came and said, ‘This is what it is, don’t question it.’ Then there are designers like Valentino and Joseph who are very hands-on and willing to work with us.”
Ms. Peck praised the “personable” designer for his interest in ballet, and said the dress is very flattering and moves well during her spins and turns.
Mr. Altuzarra understands how a piece of clothing can exaggerate certain movements—he studied ballet for eight years during his childhood.
When asked if he sees another ballet collaboration in the future, he replied absolutely.
“I’m simply very attracted to dance and passionate about it as an art form in general!”