The Red Carpet Highlights of... The 78th Annual Cannes Film Festival 2025!
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Naming her collection Macadam Diva, Diane von Furstenberg is on a pre-fall mission to “conquer the city as an urban jungle.” She and creative director Yvan Mispelaere put out an “impulse-buy” collection of pretty printed dresses that were toughened up with peekaboo panels with chain details, studs on a leather jacket and a pleather basketweave coat. The punkish vibe continued for evening with sequined jackets and T-shirts. “It’s sexy and a little aggressive,” said von Furstenberg, making it clear that these clothes are just as much about Mispelaere as they are herself. “I trust Yvan. He understands me, our relationship is so important — he as a fashion talent and me as a woman who wants it all.”
Diane von Furstenberg named her pre-fall lineup Macadam Diva—macadam being the French word for asphalt. The notion lent parts of the collection a harder-than-usual look, not exactly punk per se but toughened up with studding, chains, snaps, and zips. No safety pins though, as her right-hand man Yvan Mispelaere was quick to point out. People-pleasing is a big part of the DVF MO, so alongside those edgier elements, there were enough eye-opening prints for all of the designer's demographics, including an oversize chain-link motif that riffed on von Furstenberg's groundbreaking 1970's wrap dresses.
With Mispelaere in the picture, surprising, even offbeat color combos have become a regular occurrence here. Today's best-looking pairing was an icy blue tuxedo-bib sleeveless silk blouse and a tomato red wrap skirt; at the presentation, the model carried a leopard-print bag. The collection's deceptively expensive-looking, couturelike touches (including the delicate pleating on that blouse) are something that team DVF is particularly proud of. A coat and skirt in matching black pleather basketweave certainly was an unusual sight at the brand's Meatpacking District headquarters, but it wasn't an unwelcome one.
Let the others suit up in high-tech fabrics and continue the sprint towards sportiness. Diane von Furstenberg, whose resort collection with its jumpsuits and zipper sweaters was certainly in the race, is focusing her energy in an alternate direction for pre-fall. And in a way it’s one that she does best. She called the mood “Macadam diva” (“Macadam” meaning asphalt—named after its inventor, John McAdam) but really it’s that signature, can’t-help-but-be-sexy sexiness that pours from her bronzed, baby-soft skin right through to her clothes.
This season, there was some street mixed in too (as one might expect with the asphalt reference). It wasn’t just the silver studs and grommets on belts, jackets, and tops—though there were many—but also the chains that trimmed a soft knit tank; black leather lapels that topped a ladylike tweed jacket; vixen-worthy gloves that went with a flirty baby-blue blouse. “It’s rock ’n’ roll with a rebellious attitude,” said creative director Yvan Mispelaere.
It’s been a long time since this house could be characterized by dresses only, and in the last few seasons Mispelaere has shown that he’s not only interested in shepherding it more towards sportswear but he’s also making strides to elevate the craftsmanship. A few of the looks that reflected this best: a leather jacket and short skirt done in a large, open basket weave, chiffon tops and dresses with detailed pleating and twisted patterns. That worthy race, the one towards couture-level day dressing, is a marathon, not a sprint.