i see the the collection more as a retrospective of ALL hedi's work at DH and, on the whole, i really like what he's has done. while the collection isn't as innovative as we've seen from hedi, i still see fresh looks and a huge improvement on the past two collections which are my least favourite.
the tailoring of the suits and jackets is as superb as ever. these pieces really do look like a 'greatest hits' from past collections with new twists. they will no doubt look good on a lot of different people and sell like hot cakes.
i also love the quirkier, gender-bending pieces which may be for everyone but i'd definintely wear them. i totally agree that, outside of a biological context, 'masuline' and 'feminine' are social contructs and hats off to the designers with the vision and conviction to blur traditional boundaries. people should be free to wear whatever the hell they want. it also annoys me when people say the clothes are 'too gay'. to me, this is incredibly short-sighted and stereotypical.
BUT if this is hedi's last DH collection, i can't help but feel he could have gone out with more of a bang. maybe he's saving that for his next move...