Discussion: The State of Kering

[yslforever]

Brought up ad nauseam but it doesn’t help that Anthony isn’t really product oriented. The clothes just don’t feel designed it’s more of the vibe and the ‘vibe is not giving’ anymore.

His YSL worked before because it was an extension of Slimane, but after his breakthrough show they just ran away with it, Francesca Bellettini profiles about how YSL would be a megabrand and all, and the cracks began showing. It’s all a vapid parade of vibe. The bags used to save them but even with those bags there’s no design intent. It’s all cheaply branded. YSL used to have fabulous bags under Stefano and I know they tried since like last year but it’s not sticking. It’s so incongruent the whole thing.

They should try fix YSL too. It could be good. Maybe a separate designer for mens and womens after all it’s one of those brands whose vocabulary is vast and not just a single jacket or dress. They could be legitimate in menswear too and they were.

The menswear - I mean if you can find it and try it in stores, which is rare - is actually better than the impressions from the show. The Fall 25 is tailored and fits absolutly perfectly and is much nicer irl than on photographs, it's really nicely done.
But I agree they do need separate menswear and womenswear designers for YSL (Lucas Ossendrijver please we beg you).
Also the same for Gucci, brands cannot simply reach and maintain a certain size with one unique vision: Dior had two CDs (Anderson is the exception and I don't see how he can sustain scores of collections a year), Hermès, Vuitton too.
At Vuitton's, bags shoppers have the choice of in-house designs, or Pharrell's designs, or Nicholas designs; they cover different tastes and sensibilities while style being very specific to LV.

They just cannot bet a Gucci recovery and reach 8 billions or 10 billions on ONE CD's aesthetic only.
I already said that was one of their main mistake with Ancora, not Ancora himself, but the fact he was alone. With two CDs, if one if miscast, you can always ask more from the other one.
I hope their new 36 millions a year CEO can understand that.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ Have you been able to access the men's rooster-feather coat? That truly looks divine.

His ideal of YSL is… solid enough— as painfully limited as it and he may be. I can see his little brain carefully picking out 3 main looks for a collection from one of Yves’ archival collection; then another 3 looks from that same collection for for his next collection, then another 3 looks… With his men’s, it must be a lot tougher for him to even conjure 3 looks, since Yves was never known for his menswear, and Anthony’s found the confidence to not rely on Hedi and Tom anymore. That he’s ripping off wholesale late-80s Pitti Uomo showroom fodder— with the occasional gorgeous gem: That rooster-feather coat. And as customey as it all is, no doubt the material and construction is at a premium. I understand the appeal. But this great disconnect and divide of his measly ideal vs the commercial offering at retail is so jarring. Once the trash gold diggers and midwest mums are bored with the logo’d merch— and they always will be and apparently the brand's earnings are showing, Anthony’s days are numbered.

Looking at Anthony’s efforts, from designs to campaign, it can be very nice. But it’s not that hard to come up with, if Kering’s generous allowance freely supports him. We’ve seen it all before, and produced far superior. And in a way, he’s almost admirable for living out the TFSer’s dream of wrangling all the content found, discovered and learned here; from designs, to shows, to campaigns and curating it all into a cohesive whole, and making a commercial success of it for an iconic brand. It’s hard to hate on this little mid, frankly.

 

[yslforever]

^^^ Have you been able to access the men's rooster-feather coat? That truly looks divine.

His ideal of YSL is… solid enough— as painfully limited as it and he may be. I can see his little brain carefully picking out 3 main looks for a collection from one of Yves’ archival collection; then another 3 looks from that same collection for for his next collection, then another 3 looks… With his men’s, it must be a lot tougher for him to even conjure 3 looks, since Yves was never known for his menswear, and Anthony’s found the confidence to not rely on Hedi and Tom anymore. That he’s ripping off wholesale late-80s Pitti Uomo showroom fodder— with the occasional gorgeous gem: That rooster-feather coat. And as customey as it all is, no doubt the material and construction is at a premium. I understand the appeal. But this great disconnect and divide of his measly ideal vs the commercial offering at retail is so jarring. Once the trash gold diggers and midwest mums are bored with the logo’d merch— and they always will be and apparently the brand's earnings are showing, Anthony’s days are numbered.

Looking at Anthony’s efforts, from designs to campaign, it can be very nice. But it’s not that hard to come up with, if Kering’s generous allowance freely supports him. We’ve seen it all before, and produced far superior. And in a way, he’s almost admirable for living out the TFSer’s dream of wrangling all the content found, discovered and learned here; from designs, to shows, to campaigns and curating it all into a cohesive whole, and making a commercial success of it for an iconic brand. It’s hard to hate on this little mid, frankly.

No no that feather coat - they said it was already all "pre-ordered" - , but all the tailoring and I even tried those tight-high boots and they indeed felt absolutely ridiculous over trousers, maybe they can work over jeans or even without any pants, in the context of a Berlin club, idk.

 

[FashionPower]

No no that feather coat - they said it was already all "pre-ordered" - , but all the tailoring and I even tried those tight-high boots and they indeed felt absolutely ridiculous over trousers, maybe they can work over jeans or even without any pants, in the context of a Berlin club, idk.

The distribution for those ridiculous leather cuissards is going be:
- Gifted to influencers / brand ambassadors, Anthony's circle (see Marc Jacobs IG post)
- Few pairs bought by gay fashion mafia weirdo (you know, those people you see dressed like clowns at Balenciaga shows, both couture and RTW)
- Maybe some ultra wealth bored woman will buy them too and use them as heel-less thigh high boots?

But yeah, those are perfect to be worn for 5 minutes for dressing, posing and posting an image on IG and then return them to the shop LOL