Donna on Karan
By Suzy Menkes International Herald Tribune
SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2005
NEW YORK From high-waisted jersey dresses, through snug, ultra-light jackets, contrasts of rough Hessian fabric and soft cotton, the designer discusses the feeling, the force and the fabric behind her new spring/summer collection, in which an African-inspired greometric pattern was even splashed on a jacket by her own artistic hand:
"It's all about the dress - and the dress and jacket. The dress is the new T-shirt - it's relaxed - and we are in a relaxed mood. A dress is easy and sophisticated from day to night. It hangs out with everything. It's like the new body (suit). It defines what the slip dress meant to us all.
"The jacket is about air. This, to us, is the new shirt. It is the easiness of throwing on a jacket. The whole collection is about air and a lightness of being.
For me, it's all about the fabric - fabric talks to me. It's the constant language you have between you and your fabric: burlap (hopsack), natural fabrics of lightest jersey or double-faced silk and cotton. I derive most pleasure out of sculptural working with fabric.
"We love silhouettes relaxed in the back, in gauze, linen and jersey. It's a major jersey statement this season. The whole idea of stretch, so it feels like a T-shirt. A high waist, frees you up. As a woman, I understand what it does for a woman. It still has sensuality to it without showing skin or being tight.
"Black is the new accent: Black and blue, black and brown, black and white. Then there are splashes of color. I love the primaries - yellow and red. They are all hand painted - we have been having so much fun with the stroke of color. I had just been to Africa. I wanted to keep it clean and modern.
"I love graphic modernism - something so basic, clean and purified. Everything is easy. You just throw it on. Spring is a time to be effortless."