THINGS took a turn for the long and lean at the
autumn/winter 2008-9 collection Doo.Ri Chung presented
at Milk Gallery in the Meatpacking District tonight. The
jersey girl, who came to fame with her draped dresses and
tunics, worked with a bonded version of that fabric this
season, which lent her silhouettes a cleaner body-con edge,
as see in the embroidered cocoon dress that opened the
show (with bosom- enhancing seaming curving around the
torso) and a spare A-line shift with Swarovski crystal
embellishment snaking down the sides, tracing the body
beneath. Fuzzy angora knits turned up in a chunky, off-the-
shoulder sweater and sexy scoop neck dress (a first for the
designer), and she used a shiny cotton, leather-like twill to
great effect in painted-on pants and a stiff military jacket.
The experimentation continued with skirts and dresses
fashioned from strips of organza sewn into plaid or triangle
patterns, and the knitted mink hats, elbow-length gloves
and chunky patent-heeled platforms worn with many of the
looks (designed by Doo.Ri and styled perfectly by Anne
Christensen), added another unexpected, tough luxe touch.
"I worked with different fabric, so naturally the silhouette
was sharper and leaner," said Chung backstage. "And we
used a lot of graphic textures to make the surface have a
little bit more depth. I also designed the accessories, shoes
- every part of it! I had so much fun with the knitwear and
fur. The fabrics are very different and I'm still trying to
understand it, but I enjoy the process very much."
It shows.
VOGUE.COM
Lauren David Peden (February 4 2008, PM)
(Photos Don Ashby/VOGUE.COM)
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