Dries Van Noten F/W 2015.16 Paris

[haoshcn]

Hmm...I don't know. I'm all for a distinct and deeply personal point of view from a designer, but I just feel like Dries' work the last couple of seasons now just looks and feels like autopilot. He needs to switch up something...a new stylist? A new runway location? A new casting director?

I mean - it's always gorgeous and sumptuous...but I just don't find it interesting anymore. This doesn't feel like a part of the here and now.

I kind of agree with you. I have tremendous amount of respect and love toward Dries. He's been so genuine and talented for so many years! But we have to be honest, he's probably past the peak of his creativity, and creativity is the most critical for fashion to be exciting and relevant. There's hardly anything in this collection that you can't find in his archive, including the styling. This collection is basically just classic Dries, lots of lovely pieces that his loyal customers would love and keep buying, but it doesn't look modern; the styling, the silhouette, the way he uses the "oriental" embroidery and prints, I swear he has done all these in his archive, and also done in better ways. 5 years ago, there's no way I would have been bored by his runway collection, but I must say I am a bit bored by watching this.

 

[KateTheGreatest]

This is such a gorgeous collection, I love it! I love how rich feel the colours, the styling is really on point, everything looks just so good. And I have to say this, for me this is one of a few collections that actually really feel fall winter. Mostly designers just don't do such a difference between SS and FW collections, but this is really lovely.

 

[elle_gb]

very strong collection from ingenious designer.

 

[Wolkfolk]

Nobody does this kind of effortless nomadic elegance like him. It's not his best collection for sure but definitely superior than most of the things we've seen this season. As always I love the richness of the collection. I love how he can present such heavily inspired and intricate outfits without them looking like costumes or gimmicks. This time it seems like the whole collection is composed by variations of one piece of clothing or one element. Whether it is a print, a brocade, a color or a fabric. I love how this idea evokes clothes that we cherish so much we wish we could wear them all the time But also the idea of reinventing garments and not just buying them, wearing them all the season long then tossing them before jumping onto the next trend. I love this idea longivity and the second lives of garments. Especially because they aren't stricly minimal but vibrant and exuberant. Even the boldest pieces can be timeless basics.
As always the whole mix&match is done perfectly with the impeccable styling. I also love this new elongted silhouette, with the train. It's almost like a new kind of eveningwear , very romantic.

 

[eugenius]

Well, there goes any chance of me wanting to look at the other collections from the other designers.

Leave it to Dries to pair plain, boring khaki (which I associate w/ American styles) with such lush, exotic Asian styles, and have the expertise and know-who to make it look super-chic and stylish. I can't recall seeing such a combo on any other runway.

I've said it before, and I'll say it again: this man is invincible.

 

[gossiping]

people can say it is boring but...i will take this over the dior/prada/valentino constant ripoffs

 

[LANZO_358]

God knows I loooooooove me some Dries.

This collection, however, I love less. It has some beautiful moments but I'm not blown away by it as a whole. It's also perhaps the first time I thought, "fraught self-conscious" of a Dries collection, which is the antithesis of everything I love about the guy and his brand.

My first reaction was, "Why is everything so overwrought, posed and calculated? The first few tapestry-inspired and upholstery-esque pieces I didn't find very clever, as they looked just that...like found mucid bits of soft furnishing textiles just cobbled together; twas much too Sound of Music for my liking.

And the mix of the utilitarian browns and blues with the florals - even though juxtaposed with that gorgeous pile - was too resembling of the notes Sacai proffered for spring. The eye travelled, but it also had no opportunity to rest.

Those wants aside - and again perhaps it's only just styling, the beauty of this collection for me are found in the darker inky shades (look 20 onwards), the gold accents and the luxe yet cozy looking pelts - especially those lavender tinged 3/4 vests. I could definitely see those being shot a lot on the streets next f/w season.

 

[softgrey]

Oh my God this is everything! It sounds crazy but it's like what a modern version of Marlene Dietrich would wear on a trip to the Orient. It's beyond fab!

that sounds quite good, actually...

 

[Nepenthes]

Dries is the most consistent designer in Paris imo. Every season he delivers and this time was no different. Nothing about his work is obvious or predictable yet he has such a recognizable identity. The layering, the clashing patterns and the embellishments are truly glorious.

 

[gazebo]

https://www.youtube.com/user/FatalefashionIII

 

[yesitsdagny]

This is what I call real talent! Dries really is my favorite designer and this collection is just pure perfection.