Dries Van Noten F/W 2020.21 Paris

I always love Dries, my boyfriend always buy Dries's clothes.
I really like how he always dose his thing, but very modern and wearable.
It's not innovative or pushing boundary, but you want to have them.
The embroideries, the print and the colour are supreme.
 
My problem with last season's fabulous, fabulous collection in collaboration with Christian Lacroix is that whatever followed was always going to be underwhelming. So yeah, they're great clothes - didn't enjoy them in motion though, they look much better in stills - but I'm just not excited about any of this.
 
There are definitely some amazing pieces here but there's just too much to digest. It's so overwhelming to the point that it actually starts to detract from the overall collection.
 
He's one of a handful of designers who makes me want to throw out all my black and start mixing and matching colors and patterns and prints. This whole collection it just so chic and decadent.
 
I wasn't ready for this colorful, glamorous, gloriously vibrant collection. Seriously, he is the master of prints and colors and everything here just feels right. And yes for the platform shoes. I'm ready for a change.
 
My main issue with this is that I'm too poor to buy any of it.
 
I tried to process this collection all day because I didn’t really know how to feel about it.
Dries is one of the designer that I enjoy a lot. Going to his boutique at Quai Malaquais is always a pleasure and for me, part of appreciating a Dries collection has always been about « what I want to wear in this ». And for the first time, I don’t have this feeling.
It’s not a bad collection and it’s weird. I might like some pieces but as a whole, it’s the opposite of effortless.
Dries is the one who makes mixing prints effortless!
You see the look and you want to try it in the store. I don’t have this feeling here...

It’s a bit like Antonio Marras namesake collections, very beautiful but quite inapprochable....When his Lacroix collab had the right balance.
 
Exquisite. Prints, details, textures, layers, accessories - everything is on point, as usual. I maybe love the daywear less than his recent collections, but it's still great as a whole. And this dress (and the styling)... the absolute chicest thing i've seen all season:

Dries-Van-Noten-Fall-2020-i-C4vmq87-Wc-Ql.jpg


livingly.com
 
I do miss that ease with a flamboyant edge which is his and his alone...but being plain flamboyant can also have its rewards and the hair, make-up and overall drama do make the case for an appealing fantasy once in a while.

It seems like Paris has a bit of a romantic insurgency this season, Dossena was also living out his neo-medieval demi-couture dreams like it was 2005 again and at the very least it will make for some interesting editorials come fall.
 
Hair + make-up definitely ADD to this collection. Kudos to those teams.

 
From US Vogue September 2020 - What is the future of fashion?


I certainly didn’t imagine that at 62 I’d have to try to reinvent how fashion is going to be made, sold, worn—all those things. But no complaints: We are strong; we survive. My creative team, who are a lot of young people, are super excited about it—they embrace change. The next two fashion shows are going to be digital. With a live show, you have to apply the rules of social distancing, and with all the hair and makeup, you need a backstage that is 10 times bigger than the front. It’s impossible. But we are really storytellers—along with showing the tactile aspect of the collection, we love to tell a story with our fashion show.
We are also making the collections smaller, working in a more sustainable way. It’s exciting—it doesn’t feel like a punishment or a restriction. When you see the way that we worked before—sometimes, not always—I mean, what were we thinking? Why did we make all this? I think the clients are also going to look at collections in a different way— they’ll want to know why certain garments are more expensive or more special.
We’ll have to see—after a season when nearly everybody was wearing an easy sweatpant and a hoodie—what the needs are for the next season. Do people want to forget a little? When you compare the time we are in now, with Boris Johnson and Donald Trump and everything that’s happening, I think escapism stays important. People will still want to wear easy garments, but I think they will still want to dream and desire, and to go to another world of beauty.
- Dries Van Noten, Designer​
 
I love Dries , and always find something every season, but this time it's been more difficult. I have a feeling hat with the sale to Puig it's become more like the other blockbuster houses, with the show and a selling collection, whereas before it seemed to always be the same thing. This time the show has become more fashion and the actual pieces are more simple. Maybe it's just this season though , but something has shifted.
 
so regal and luxurious! a subtle 20’s hint and all the (a wee much) overstyling of some looks still manages to look good.
like one of the above comments, there’s a nuisance of decadence indeed.
 

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