Dries Van Noten Mens S/S 2020 Paris

[Benn98]

WWD

 

[Benn98]

WWD

 

[Phuel]

So effortlessly good.

I don’t care to react the least towards the rest of this hyped nonsense that’s the brand of Sasha Baron Cohen’s Bruno-come-true that’s plagued all of HF— nor the all-too-serious cringeyness of Rick Owens (any men that wears Rick is as much a colossal repellent as J.W.’s men-as-toddlers nonsense to me), as long as there are the occasional oasis of thoughtful and timeless elegance— like this gorgeous collection that so masterfully brings everything from romanticism, dandyism, gentlemanly-bespoke, androgyny, grudge and a Cy Twombly painting to such vivid life. I adore the leather tank top with the trench wrapped round the waist (although I’m not too fond of the desperately-seeking-to-be-down-with-the-Tumblr-kidz neon patchwork prints toward the end…).

Effortless irreverence at its most inspiring.

 

[Lola701]

Guys (and girls) if you wants to look chic next summer, this is the collection for you!
This is perfect, maybe the best collection presented since the beginning of the season.

 

[mepps]

Gorgeous, particularly from halfway through. How does he do it so consistently?

 

[RedSmokeRise]

This is great (as usual) and most importantly FUN!

 

[TheoG]

It's a skill only Dries has to pair the most bizarre print or color and make it look so effortless.

 

[bc collector]

Although the shapes tend to be always the same, everything is elevated by Dries' superior taste. Best leopard print seen in ages (do you hear, Donatella?).

 

[perfect blue]

I like this collection per the usual from Dries.

I know it's been out for a while but his documentary on Netflix is great. I have watched it like 5 times at least lol.

 

[eugenius]

See-through tank tops and leather short-shorts, worn with boots? And are those leather chaps worn over dark denim? Is this his way of saying "Happy Pride"?

This is fine and all...something for both his newer & older fans alike. I feel like I've seen this all from him before, but I know when I see the textiles at the store, how wrong I'll be. I'll always be amazed at his eye for fabrics, even if it is just a simple button-up w/ a floral print on it. And the cut on a lot of the trousers is just right--nothing too slim, and nothing too loose.

Nice to see he doesn't hop on the bandwagon, and the bandwagon doesn't hop on him.

 

[Benn98]

I like short shorts as much as the next guy but within reason. Don't think I'd want my balls peeking out of a hem, which is what will happen if most men will sit comfortably in Look 2.

 

[Nymphaea]

I like short shorts as much as the next guy but within reason. Don't think I'd want my balls peeking out of a hem, which is what will happen if most men will sit comfortably in Look 2.

Really Benn! You can't be serious. Those shorts are perfectly normal.

 

[eugenius]

There's a perfect solution for that. It's called underwear. Do they not make those in England, or is that some weird American thing?

Look closely: are those detachable chaps worn over dark denim jeans? Now THAT would make for a nutty situation.

 

[perfect blue]

Loving this conversation

 

[eugenius]

And another thing...

I know we're supposed to keep model-talk out of here, which I totally get, but I can't help but wonder if my perception of this collection (well, all his recent collections) would be better if he simply used a stronger cast. Look at his old shows: mature, handsome, clean-cut men who you can totally see wearing these clothes in real life. But now? I don't see any of that.

 

[Benn98]

Really Benn! You can't be serious. Those shorts are perfectly normal.

They're not, I promise you, lol! Last summer Prada actually did a charming collection of tailored shorts which looked really great. A tangerine pair caught my attention which came with its cute little slim belt, BUT, even on the mannequin it would just about cover your bum cheek. Trust me, the one above doesn't look any longer. At least the Prada one had more narrow hems, but imagine cycling about wearing this one. Imagine if you're Cisco Adler! The world will be your urologist.

And as for Eugenius , LOL, basically saying 'uhm, underwear?', which narrows it down to briefs only? Who still wear briefs? We are not in Spain, sorry.

 

[Sai]

This is flawless.
It makes you remember why you love fashion and clothes and style.
He is a brilliant man, a master and always true to himself.
We need more of Dries and less of Rhianna/Virgil/turds

 

[TaylorBinque]

The last look; leopard coat, bright fuchsia pink pants and peach top. It works brilliantly. Only Dries can do something like this. And that look is a testament of his talent.

 

[reesewu]

Dying for the third look! Wish we saw more of that proposition throughout the show as I found the whole thing a bit too much a hodgepodge of ideas without a firm cohesion.

The clashing prints and brazen color-blocking work well—though I’m not sure I could ever pull them off—because Dries juxtaposes them with a casual silhouette, which gives those looks a sense of nonchalance instead of try-hardness.

 

[Phuel]

And another thing...

I know we're supposed to keep model-talk out of here, which I totally get, but I can't help but wonder if my perception of this collection (well, all his recent collections) would be better if he simply used a stronger cast. Look at his old shows: mature, handsome, clean-cut men who you can totally see wearing these clothes in real life. But now? I don't see any of that.

Despite fashiondom constantly harping on about how inclusive and diverse they are in 2019, it’s really just the same old same old: only the forever 21 and under, tall and skinny are ever cast… :sigh:

I’ve resigned to fact that the preferred look for men in this blandest if all fashion eras are pubescent/neutered twinks with the same blank look when it comes to male models. Not my thing of course— but doesn’t mean I can’t relate to the brand or the designs just because I don't see “myself” on the runway/magazine/campaign.

And I can appreciate hyper-styling for runway and never translate the look literally onto my own dress sensibility and style. And yet still, unlike so many of today’s hyped lessers, every single piece in Dries’ collections— from the past to this current offering, may be effortlessly added to any man’s wardrobe: He's always been a very democratic designer in that sense. I mean, I have never seen anyone wear Dries' signature runway combo of (short) shorts with a long trench in real life, but I do like the visuals of it in magazines/campaigns/shows. If HF consistently has to dumb itself down by only opting for practical department-store presentations (like all of NY Fashion Week), then my goodness, that really is the end of HF as we know it. Let’s encourage the fantasy. Not everything has to represent reality and practicality.

(Benn’s a puritan nun, but I agree the shorts are really short, looking more like slinky boxers that the iconic Wilt Chamberlain would wear to his nightly orgies.)