Dries Van Noten Menswear F/W 2024.25 Paris

He's been so uninspired these past few years. I used to buy multiple pieces every season, hard to think that used to be the case when I look at this...
 
This is one of the case where men and a woman won’t understand each other…

I think there are cute pieces, as usual with Dries and somehow the color palette makes me excited for what the womenswear might look but I’m failing to see the excitement.

Those oversized, over long silhouettes…The models looks like the the tracksuits wearing dancers from Daft Punk’s around the world music video.

But then again there might be a gap on what I want to see on men or at least the vision presented on them and what they actually want to wear…
 
I'm not crazy about this. I see more "dislikes" than "love."

The black & navy looks are great, but rather typical Dries. Nothing new to see here.

But once he ventures into the pastels & earth-tones in the middle, that's where he loses me. There have been many occasions where Dries could take these colors, and make them feel warm for the fall/winter months, but here, it all reads as a spring/summer collection, and not a good one at that. Where's the sense of cohesion that he's mastered in the past? And that Canadian tuxedo really need not exist.

The 2nd pic...the all-black suit...is all the DVN I need in this collection.
 
It's a good, solid collection but we are far, far away by exploits like Fall 2011 or Fall 2015. I feel like those days are gone once and for all, as much as I love, respect and wear Dries.
Maybe the general mediocrity around him plays in his favour, we instantly react to someone who can cut a killer suit and does not indulge in the oversize spell that still entrances younger designers.
 
Beautiful. The colours are gentle, even the more colorful numbers. I somehow love the Eye printed pants lol. The coats have a column esque shape that is not for everybody, but other pieces are quite democratic. Some pieces have a distinct detail that never feels like a gimmick.

The Dries man is pragmatic, wants confort but little bit of eccentricity too.
 

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