Dries Van Noten S/S 2025 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[Olaffo]

Dries is in good hands. I liked the collection a lot, beautiful ephemeral vibes. Hopefully they won’t ruin it with appointment of some talentless „CD”.

 

[j02215]

The studio team should be proud. Love the colors, prints, textures and styling. They should just promote someone internally, who knows the language of Dries.

 

[Norden]

This is good! It arguably lacks a bigger statement, but it feels authentically dries

 

[LadyJunon]

Leave it to Dries Van Noten to hire a team that can design a strong collection without him. As someone who despises interim collections, I wouldn't be mad if they just continued like this for the next few years.

 

[helmutnotdead]

it’s better than his last womenswear collection. sorry not sorry

 

[GoldenPetals]

I clearly like his new team more than him because I love everything about this. The silhouettes and proportions are so beautiful. But the PRINTS is what gives it that urban edge.

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

Bravo ! You can tell the students learnt from the Master.
Great use of colors, beautiful prints, textures, elegant attitude, a bit of sensuality here, of mystery there. All the codes of the house are respected.

 

[thiago:)]

it’s better than his last womenswear collection. sorry not sorry

I couldn't agree more.

Shoes are also great.

 

[Olaffo]

Makes me excited for Menswear FW in Jan (hopefully they won’t pick his successor 🤭)…

 

[Ruito]

This was so sad to witness. Dries was my favorite designer and to see his house go down like this, it's really sad to witness.

 

[Ruito]

I guess I'm alone in this LOL

 

[GivenchyAddict]

Beautiful! Love the color palette. Bravo to them!

 

[Lola701]

PSA: The photos and that angles can be deceiving.

What a great collection.
I think they have managed to deliver a really bold, confident and grown collection.
I agree with @Norden that it lacks a strong statement but that doesn’t mean that the collection is weak either. There’s a bit of everything and at the same time, we are not lost.
I would have edited out looks 40 and 42 but the rest is great.

The accessories are very beautiful and in motion, everything is light and perfect.

Much like @helmutnotdead and @thiago:) I think that it’s better than Dries’s last womenswear.

Look 12 is just exquisite in the styling and mix of colors!

And yes, after a collection like this, a very loyal fan and customer base, a Founder still active somehow in the company and acting as a public figure for the brand, does Dries Van Noten really needs a new CD?

I think him and PUIG can totally continue to define the strategy for the brand while the team does the work in terms of designs.

 

[philophile]

Wow! The usage/combination of colors here is one of the most beautiful I've ever seen in any collection. Whoever this person is, has a great feeling for it. It's a very lovely collection, very easy on the eyes.

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

Maybe the heads of design from menswear and womenswear will be appointed as Creative Directors. As it happened with Michele at Gucci, Burton at McQueen. Sometimes it's better this way.

Don't want a CSM kid who graduated 18 months ago ruining this house...

 

[MulletProof]

it’s certainly not as mindblowingly horrible as these transitions go in fashion these days.. and you can certainly feel the presence of the living designer looming over this (it’s rare when it gets so bad while the founder is still alive) and in a way keeping the label under control.. it just.. feels rather like based on cold research and a paycheck, it lacks the passion and profound curiosity for textiles and culture that has always emanated from Dries. I know it’s never going to be the same but.. 🫠

 

[Lola701]

Maybe the heads of design from menswear and womenswear will be appointed as Creative Directors. As it happened with Michele at Gucci, Burton at McQueen. Sometimes it's better this way.

Don't want a CSM kid who graduated 18 months ago ruining this house...

I don’t remember if Dries discussed the process of the succession at the helm of the brand but this collection would have reassure me that the studio can do the job.

Margiela stayed how many years without any CD…

The problem is also that the fashion industry needs a bit of story telling to push the clothes and accessories.

The guy at Missoni was the head designer at Givenchy and Margiela. And the collections when Martin left were great, so were the transition collections when Riccardo left. But it’s true that being at the center stage gives more legitimacy to try things…Like what he is doing at Missoni.

 

[Phuel]

I guess I'm alone in this LOL

Not convinced either. But also don’t think it’s that bad.

The quietly-elegant, cleverly-sartorial, gentlewoman traveller seems to have left the building. In her place, is a woman who looks like she looks up to Diane von Furstenberg and Sarah Jessica Parker for her “wild” and “kooky” sensibility. And this aesthetic, casting, showing really comes off as a better NYFW offering than classic Dries; there’s something very department-store in its very pragmatic, strained eclecticism of prints. That lonely, romantic, bejewelled jacket at the end seems to be the only remnant of the Dries gentlewoman.

…Anyway, plenty of solid separates.