Ermenegildo Zegna S/S 2015 Milan

marcBarna

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nowfashion
 
It's more fashion and more fun but still the tailor is incredible.
 
I particularly loved seeing the signature Pilati jeweled tones make an appearance. The best menswear collection we've seen thus far this season. It's relaxed and cool, but still sophisticated and chic.
 
^^^ This leaves the opposite impression on me...

It's is all so horrible and unflattering for the Zegna men.

The only slightly interesting element of the collection is the styling. And the only potential that perks my interest are the few jolts of jeweltones at the end-- but I don't need these designs to get the color combos. And the parade of schoolboys is so boring... Are they trying to get the superfuturers into Zegna now? How about casting men?

The one interesting design element is the tanktop-esque armholes detail bit peaking around the waist-- but only because it's a very Helmut Lang design element rather than Stefano's idea.

I despise, despise, despise the high, broad-banded waistline with the pleats and the tapered legs; the wide Matsuda-esque stripes/ pinstripes; and the loose, pillowy cargo bomber jackets in those ugly stripes... Yuck. So cheap-looking, so deadset eighties. It's alright when stylists pull together these retro looks in editorials, and it's kind of cool to see kids put together these looks on the street from vintage. But for this type of look to come from actual garments from a designer label for 2015-- and sadly, from Stefano, is hugely disappointing to me. What's happening to his sense of impeccable, effortless but sharp sense of style that he had when he was with Gucci and YSL? This is all so Vogue Pattern for men.
 
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Decent show but I kind of wished to see more sleekness into it. It relied heavily on the styling (who did the styling by the way?)

The final looks were a moment though. How prim and sophisticated!
 
I agree with Phuel. This is garbage pandering to youth and fashion, and something that is more appropriate for Z Zegna. There is no sense of the tradition, quality, sophistication, sharpness, and maturity that I associate with the brand. The styling looks like it was accomplished by either a half-wit or a cruise ship director. Sandals and socks? Disgusting. And why is he dressing ninety pound weaklings?

Zegna has definitely lost one customer today. I'm switching to Ferragamo.
 
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I'm irritated why the choice of models would be such a dominant point of criticism, particularly taken into account that size 46/48 models have become the standard for the majority of fashion houses from Jil Sander to Costume National, Dries van Noten or Lanvin - Why is it necessary to see a manly 'man' on the runway when we have come to accept seeing skinny models girls on the runway for many years already?
 

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