Stefano Pilati Leaving Ermenegildo Zegna

Stefano Pilati Said Leaving Ermenegildo Zegna
In a day of major changes at European men’s luxury brands, Stefano Pilati is said to be exiting the Ermenegildo Zegna Group, according to market sources.

Pilati joined the Trivero, Italy-based Zegna in January 2013, tapped to add a fashion element to the collections. His departure would come on the heels of a confident fall collection presented in January that received high praise from retailers and that WWD defined “arresting” and “his best yet.” However, sources say Pilati’s couture-like designs were often disconnected from Zegna’s core customer needs.

“It is our policy not to comment on rumors regarding individuals working at or with Zegna,” said a spokesman for the Italian men’s wear giant.

Pilati joined Zegna after exiting Yves Saint Laurent as creative director in March 2012. He was named creative director of Agnona, and head of design at Ermenegildo Zegna, with responsibility for that brand’s fashion show as well as for the Ermenegildo Zegna Couture collection, the latter built on sartorial, hand-stitched suits in luxury fabrics. When Pilati in July left the women’s Agnona brand, controlled by Zegna, he was said to be pursuing other personal projects in women’s ready-to-wear.

The designer, a well-known and seasoned talent with a suave personal style and experience at big brands, has worked in senior design and fabric development positions for a number of Italian design houses, including Miu Miu, Prada and Giorgio Armani.

In light of the announcement earlier today that Alessandro Sartori is leaving Berluti, sources speculate a return to Zegna could be in the cards. Sartori held the role of creative director of Z Zegna for eight years, exiting the company in 2011.

Earlier in the day, Brioni said its creative director, Brendan Mullane, would not be renewing his contract.
wwd
 
Omg!! I wonder where he is headed.
 
NOOOO STEFANO! I mean he can do much better than Zegna in terms of exposure but I don't want him to be out of work.

Everyone should read his interview in System Magazine, everything he says about the fashion industry and his approach to design is enlightening
 
I know it's impossible, but Stefano back at Saint Laurent would be one the best things in fashion right now.
 
I know it's impossible, but Stefano back at Saint Laurent would be one the best things in fashion right now.

after all that happened and that's been said by mr. bergè i doubt that'll ever happen :(
 
Starting to think he really doesn't want to be in fashion anymore ...
 
He would be a dream at Lanvin (or return to YSL!)
 
Kind of sad for him. I wonder if it was a personal decision? I thought this would be a great gig; lots of flexibility and the best fabrics and team at his disposal but able to go under the radar without as much scrutinity from a major house (they make a living on suiting so whatever he could bring in was a bonus)

I don't think his work translates into sales, so I don't see him going to an even bigger house like Lanvin or Dior. Lanvin would be a great fit as he'd just have to design women's... but given the way Alber left I think they'll have a hard time finding somebody to take that on.

It'll be an interesting few months ahead!

Best of luck!
 
Just one question: which contract between a brand and a designer signed 5 years ago is still running?

I ask this because nothing works. Who's to blame? Eveything is so short-lived. And I think this is the new pace of fashion. Little chapters, living for the hype and the sales originated by the hype, and when the formula is not working as well as in the beginning, they start all over again.


It's wwwwweird.
 
Just one question: which contract between a brand and a designer signed 5 years ago is still running?

I ask this because nothing works. Who's to blame? Eveything is so short-lived. And I think this is the new pace of fashion. Little chapters, living for the hype and the sales originated by the hype, and when the formula is not working as well as in the beginning, they start all over again.


It's wwwwweird.


In this case, it came as a surprise to me as what he said in the interview i mentioned earlier pretty much said he was in a great place where he could experiment with textiles and fabrics and he was given liberty, took his design team in berlin where he worked on his own terms etc. So who knows what happened here.

I'm just wishing he's out to another brand, possibly making womenswear again :|
 
When will all this madness end? As if I knew this was coming. He made Zegna relevant but I guess it hasn't worked out (from a sales point of view), or maybe something bigger has come. I reckon he's either headed to Dior or Lanvin (either would be a dream especially Dior as I want to see him do couture). The downside would be he may not do menswear any more. I guess it's bitter sweet as I can't wait to see where he's headed.
 
I think Stefano do well at Lanvin. But I was hoping he'd be Armani's successor someday.

He was definitely doing a good job at Zegna, but unfortunately I think these days any newly appointed designer who doesn't have runaway success like Hedi or Alessandro is considered a failure.
 
I really enjoyed his work for Zegna (and some of his stuff at Agnona TBH), even if the collections didn't have the bombastic appeal of some of his best outings for YSL.

Really hope he'll design in some capacity in another venue soon enough...the timeless elegance of his work will never age or fade to me!
 
Hopefully he's headed for better things. He's genuinely talented when it comes to womenswear, so from that perspective he's been wasted ...
 

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