Ferragamo S/S 2025 Milan

remove all the oversized bs and it’s an amazing collection! the ‘second part’ was extremely strong.

the bags look incredible!
 
the "ballet core" looks are such an opaque attempt at hopping on a trend but it feels almost funnily sad because that trend was like 1 year ago, at least. though "HF twitter" looks to be eating out the hand as they do any time designers give them a nod by hopping on the microtrends these self-qualified stylists and fashion historians believe they're responsible for creating.
 
Max is as insanely talented as he is young. While I was since the beginning a big fan of his now defunct eponymous label, I'm not crazy about what he's doing at Ferragamo. I was actually surprised when I saw his first collection at the maison, since it looked nothing like his usual design style.

On the collection: I don't like most of it and I do find it missing cohesion like others pointed out. A lot of hits and misses. However, there are a few beautiful pieces here and there. My favorite one by far is the one Paloma is wearing, which is so flattering on her.
 
I see Lemaire, Bottega and Dior by MGC but no Ferragamo.

And I really don’t know who is creatively speaking. The POV is so weak that it feels non existent.

He did one and a half great collection so far.
 
It looks like a Lemaire collection designed by Daniel Lee
My exact thoughts. It feels very Lemaire.
And I’m not mad about it, I still prefer this over Gucci.
But clearly they are trying hard to make the shoes and bags happen.
The shoulder version of the Hug bag looks promising tho.
 
Oversized, wrinkled fabrics, leggings; and two versions of Daniel Lee´s leather coats from his debut collection at BV (but with the Ferragamo buckle motif). Oh...and the ballet flats to justify the inspiration of it all.

Fuckrragamo.
 
I loved this collection. I do feel that there could've been a stronger ballet influence given the invitation visual, and those few opening looks of the off-duty ballerina vibe. But, all-in-all, I loved the color palette and really enjoyed the ways they styled the utility jackets. That pop of blue was refreshing as well. Good job, Max. Keep going.
 
Wish he's separate the men's from the women's just so we could get a clearer idea of his POV. Starts to get messy when he tries to keep all within the same creative/reference wavelength when it doesn't fully work.

Besides that it's cute. Confusing in parts but cute. And finally Paloma is in a garment that doesn't make her look shorter than usual.
 
I like it even those wrinkled coats that make one look insane are interesting. The menswear with the short shorts on the other hand is very unflattering and 70s cult like.
 
This collection doesn’t really bring anything new to the table. I can’t see why a buyer would choose this when similar options are already out there. Honestly, your money would be better spent at Bottega Veneta or Loewe, where you're getting more bang for the buck.
 
Love, absolutely love, that last dress on Mona Tougaard. That shade of red is heavenly, love the cut too. A standout piece from Milan Fashion Week, for me. :heart:
 
Brands love randomly bringing in Lotta Volkova thinking she will save their image and turn it into Miu Miu (Looking at you Chloe as well)

The result is his most confusing outing. Lost the sleekness he established the past few shows and now it feels disparate and only half committed to the ballet theme.

They seem like nice pieces, but I don't get the feeling people will be banging down the doors for them.
 
His POV has always been the 90s: It’s here with his copping Gaultier— or maybe it’s Helmut (that Christopher also appropriated for his Prorsum), with the jackets that zip off at the waist into a cropped version; the Herve Leger ribbon/bandage dresses; the Jil Sander monastic robes; Donatella’s Versace colorblocking etc etc And he’s usually decent at pulling every separate into a cohesive whole with a strict but gorgeous color-palette.

It’s not all bad. Like Sabato, he’s just of very limited, highend department-store talent. Problem with him has always been that if he never works again, no one will miss him. He is for fashion design the same way that Hugo Comte is for fashion photographer: Technically well-executed, and even tastefully refined, but we’ve seen it all before— and executed far superior befor, because everything he designs reminds you of something that’s already been done countless times. And in that sense, he’s very much in the same league as Sabato: Highend department-store in-house brand capable— but shouldn’t be heading a fabled house that demands the ridiculous prices for such department-store offerings. Especially if he doesn’t sell.
 

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