His POV has always been the 90s: It’s here with his copping Gaultier— or maybe it’s Helmut (that Christopher also appropriated for his Prorsum), with the jackets that zip off at the waist into a cropped version; the Herve Leger ribbon/bandage dresses; the Jil Sander monastic robes; Donatella’s Versace colorblocking etc etc And he’s usually decent at pulling every separate into a cohesive whole with a strict but gorgeous color-palette.
It’s not all bad. Like Sabato, he’s just of very limited, highend department-store talent. Problem with him has always been that if he never works again, no one will miss him. He is for fashion design the same way that Hugo Comte is for fashion photographer: Technically well-executed, and even tastefully refined, but we’ve seen it all before— and executed far superior befor, because everything he designs reminds you of something that’s already been done countless times. And in that sense, he’s very much in the same league as Sabato: Highend department-store in-house brand capable— but shouldn’t be heading a fabled house that demands the ridiculous prices for such department-store offerings. Especially if he doesn’t sell.